Pint-sized Penzance, perched above the sweep of Mount’s Bay is not just a thriving Cornwall resort, but perfectly formed to potter around, on foot.

The age-old harbour has a salty, sea-dog charm, as do many of the historic watering holes that speckle the town. What I love about Penzance is its resolute authenticity. Despite being a tourist magnet, the town has steered down the temptation to tart itself up with the superficial glitz of some resort towns, preferring to stay true to its trading roots.

From the stately waterfront promenade to the cobbled winding paths that criss-cross the town centre, Penzance oozes atmosphere. The fruits of the export trade, predominantly in tin and grain, lavished riches on the old town, giving rise to the drool-worthy Georgian and Regency houses, especially on Chapel St.  My favourite building on the same street is the fantastical, colourful design of the Egyptian townhouse, it’s flamboyant façade studded with lotus bud decoration. 

Don’t miss one of the most amazing second-hand retro stores, while in Chapel St, Steckfensters, which boasts an Aladdin’s Cave of used  and retro goods, including full-sized Daleks from the Dr. Who TV series! And stop by the delightful old pub, the Admiral Benbow Inn, which has been a hearty watering hole since 1696. The interior is lavishly furnished in fascinating maritime trinkets – and there’s even a life-sized pirate perched on the roof looking out to sea.

From Penzance, take the short drive to Marazion to marvel at the rocky outcrop of St. Michael’s Mount. Legend has it that the archangel St. Michael appeared here in 495AD.  When the Normans conquered England, they were struck by the island’s uncanny resemblance to their own Mont-St-Michel. Benedictine Monks from Normandy were invited to build a small abbey on the Cornwall equivalent.  When Henry VIII ruled the roost, the abbey was absorbed into a fortress, and later, the entire island became the family seat of the St. Aubyns. The abbey and castle fortress were renovated into a magnificent house, which is now safeguarded by the National Trust. This dreamy island is connected to the mainland by a cobbled causeway, walkable in low tide, otherwise, take the ferry.

From Marazion, I headed north to St. Austel Bay, steeped in maritime history and authentic draws. Drop into Mevagissey, a quintessential Cornwall fishing port, well worth a meander to admire its sturdy stone cottages and bobbing fleet of small fishing boats.  Equally impressive is the nearby port of Charlestown, which first found its feet as a china clay export hub, and is now a favourite location for film crews. Its readymade backdrop of atmospheric quays and traditional sailing ships is a delightful setting to walk around.  History hounds, set aside time to explore the intriguing artefacts amassed from 150 shipwrecks at the Charlestown Shipwreck & Heritage museum. The collection includes a few pieces from the Titanic and Lusitania.

Where to stay? Set in 43 acres of Victorian wooded parkland, my family absolutely loved The Cornwall Hotel Spa and Estate. Exuding the appeal of a chic country lodge, without the scary tariffs, The Cornwall is primed to precision for those who want to unwind and relax, after a full day’s sightseeing. An ambitious and pain-staking project has successfully combined the original hotel with freehold holiday homes, all set on a wooded estate, just outside St Austell.

The nine-bedroom hotel occupies the stately 19th century White House, backed by 56 additional rooms on the Woodland slope, in curvy roofed chalets with individual balconies. The Woodland bedrooms are swish, contemporary and spacious; while the White House guestrooms are more old-school, with traditional features and sumptuous furnishings. This family-friendly property offers a wealth of activities for the young ones, including a complimentary children’s cinema.

Plus, every child at heart will be enchanted by the relocated colony of bats, into purpose-built “bat hotels”, that are scattered around the estate! There are two restaurants: the intimate, library-like Arboretum, and the first floor Acorn Brasserie. ( Big thumbs-up to the braised Pork belly and pan roasted cod.) For al fresco dining The Parkland Terrace, overlooking the Pentewan Valley, provides a gorgeous setting for a light lunch, Cornish Cream Tea or sundowner cocktails.