No matter the season, the mesmerising lakeside setting of Wānaka is a supreme body of beauty. Clad in floor to ceiling windows, I was staying at Marina Terrace Apartments on Lakeside Road, waking up to the yolky dawn of a new day as the first rays of sunlight torched the sprawling sweep of Lombardy poplars strutting the western shoreline, beneath Roy’s Peak. Gazing across to the gilded glory of the morning light show, it vividly underscored to me Wānaka’s elemental brag-power as one of our greatest natural playgrounds. And it beats to a less frenetic tempo than the throb of Queenstown. Unsurprisingly, most of the locals look strikingly fit, lithe and active. I guess it becomes second nature – as does using the Mt. Iron loop track as your open-air gym.  

Blessed with a spree of cracking trails to blaze, a hot date with a bike soon beckoned. I linked up with Geoff Marks from Otago Trail Hub and David Goadby from NZ Bike Trails for a ride to remember. NZ Bike Trails is the absolute go-to for all your trail riding needs, offering bike hire and extensive shuttle services, spanning the Wānaka, Queenstown and Dunstan trails. They’ll service the Kawarau Gorge Trail too, which is likely to open and rock the socks off the trail world in spring. They’ll sort you with airport transfers, too.

Mike on his bike in Wānaka. Photo / Mike Yardley 

David’s passion for cycling is palpable, which he credits for transforming his life. He lost a staggering 40kg in weight after hitting the pedals, becoming hooked and clocking up 18,000km in riding while living in Sydney’s North Shore. He’s now totalled more than 100,000km on two wheels. David shared his back-story with me as he transferred Geoff and I up to the shoreline of Lake Hāwea, where our 30km-long ride started from. This is one of David’s recommended trail routes, because it blends the best of Hāwea and Wānaka’s off-road trails together, with fast-shifting landscapes, switching from bucolic lakeside settings to undulating countryside, river views and stirring mountain vistas. As Geoff pointed out to me, there’s some celebrity home sightings too - if you know where to look, including Annabel Langbein’s secluded property and Richie McCaw’s dream home.  

If you feel like a wellness layover, and some hot and cold therapy, lock in a booking with The Secret Sauna, a wood-fired lakeside sauna experience on the shores of Lake Hāwea. Sessions combine traditional sauna heat with cold plunges into the liquid-cellophane lake, plus a cosy lounge yurt for changing and chillaxing afterwards. 

The impeccable clarity of Lake Hāwea really is a sight to behold, particularly when it twinkles in the soft morning sunlight. Heading south of the lake, Geoff and I followed Hāwea River Track to Albert Town, complete with a fabulous swing bridge crossing the crystalline brilliance of this glacial river. I’m quite sure many cyclists make tracks to Albert Town simply to reward themselves with a lip-smacking layover at Pembroke Patisserie. This fiendishly popular artisan bakery and café is fawned over for classic French-style pastries with a modern Kiwi twist. I don’t think I’ve come across bigger custard squares, while I can also highly recommend their custard doughnuts and almond croissants.   

Cycling over the Hāwea River. Photo / NZ Bike Trails 

Suitably refuelled, from Albert Town, we switched onto the Outlet Track which traces the equally vivid beauty of the upper Cutha River, after it spills out of Lake Wānaka, on the first stage of its journey to the sea. The riverside trail explodes with golden leafy hues in autumn. The leaf fall along the lake edge in deep autumn is the stuff of legend – a blizzard of crinkled brown and gold recasts the landscape. I could hear my bike wheels heartily crunching deep into the blanket of crinkled leaves.  

At the Outlet, the track connects with the soulful Beacon Point Walk which is a divine shared trail hugging the lakeside edge towards Wānaka town centre. The locals had previously nicknamed the grand parade of swanky lakefront homes here, “Millionaire’s Row”. Given the rocketing uplift in house prices, it’s probably better named gazillionaire’s row, home to many exclusive holiday homes rented out to ultra-wealthy international guests, like The Dacha, where Oprah Winfrey stayed a few years ago. The track spills out on Bremner Bay Beach and Lakeside Road to complete this blissful picturesque 30km ride from Hāwea. Geoff Marks is the power behind the Otago Trail Hub website, which is brims with inspiration on great trails to ride all over the region and the latest network updates. It’s a trusty go-to for trail-riders of all abilities. 

Autumn cycling in Wānaka. Photo / Wānaka NZ

Wānaka offers far more choice than you’d expect from a town this size, but that speaks to its pulling-power as a premium destination and discerning appetites. Fresh local produce, brilliant wines, a buzzing craft beer industry and superb café culture all combine to power a sparkling hospitality scene, coursing with verve and variety. Here’s a round-up of some of my favourite venues. It’s an institution to rival that Wānaka tree, Kai Whakapai. Food made good. With a sunny sprawl of outdoor tables and eclectic Kiwi décor, it’s a go-to for comfort food throughout the day, before morphing into a relaxed bar after dark. If you’re idea of breakfast entails downing a Mimosa or Bloody Mary, you’ve come to the right place. Don’t miss their delicious Duck Bao Buns and Katsu Fried Chicken later in the day, over sundowner cocktails. 

I’m a huge fan of Scroggin Coffee and Eatery, who always pull a perky crowd for breakfast. The cabinets are loaded with sweet pastries and savoury delights. For something more substantial, sink into one of their epic Roasted Royalburn Lamb Toasties for brunch. And yes – they do sell trail mix to go, as you’d expect from a place called Scroggin! Their sister store, Crumb Bakehouse is another sure-fire spot for freshly baked croissants, sourdough and toasties. Tititea Steakhouse is a crowd-puller with the carnivores. Tuck into roasted lamb shoulder or how about wild venison with a pomegranate glaze and parsnip chips? I love Tititea’s dessert cocktails. Order up a Drunken Snowman which consists of hot chocolate and Bailey’s, topped with ice cream.  

But my favourite new dinner spot is Sofi. Local owner Sean Smith has created a swish and seductive lakefront venue, blending a relaxed and convivial atmosphere with superbly executed Mediterranean-style dining. Just over a year old, and open from lunch to late, locally sourced Otago produce is to the fore. The small plates menu is a joy, very shareable and packed with flavour. My picks? Their cheese gözleme is irresistible; a pull-apart, melt-in-your-mouth delight of flaky golden flatbread accentuated with lemon, honey and sesame.  Follow that up with a prawn saganaki, accompanied with white cheese, capsicum glaze and parsley salad. 

Dining at Sofi in Wānaka. Photo / Mike Yardley 

Further afield, I zipped up into the Cardrona Valley, just a 30 minute drive away. The time-honoured Cardrona Hotel was popping with activity, since its recent purchase by local residents. Just across the road, I had a lunch date at the acclaimed Cardrona Distillery, which was established just over a decade ago by Desiree Reid, spear-heading the revival of whisky production in New Zealand. Cardrona’s extraordinary award-winning single-malt whisky continues to earn global accolades, while the distillery also produces an impressive range of vodka, gin and liqueurs. The distillery’s gorgeous schist buildings are deeply rooted in sustainability, seamlessly resting within the sublime embrace of the surrounding alpine landscape.  

Alongside discerning tastings and distillery tours, the restaurant is another triumph, crowned with New Zealand’s biggest chandelier. But within this sophisticated setting, it’s anything but stuffy or pretentious. Jack Foster’s splendid menu of small plates and sharing dishes scored a coveted Hat in last year’s Cuisine Good Food Awards. If you’re feeling particularly peckish, plump for the Trust the Chef selection of dishes. Menu highlights include the Canterbury Bacon Butty with chilli jam and freshly whipped mayo; the Crayfish Rolls with hazelnut, foraged herbs and bisque; plus, the Pan-seared wild shot Fiordland Venison striploin. Paired with crafted cocktails, it’s a truly superlative experience and you could not wish for more engaging, charismatic wait staff. It’s a do-not miss.

Cardrona Distillery's elemental appeal. Photo / Mike Yardley 

Travelling with kids? Treat them to a visit to the National Transport & Toy Museum which is quite the revelation alongside Wānaka Airport. This is a classic car, aviation and toy museum all rolled into one, amounting to the Southern Hemisphere’s largest private collection open to the public. Founded by Gerald Rhodes, his son Jason is now  at the helm. With over 100,000 items on display across four hangers, it’s quite the head-swirl, spanning everything from classic cars that featured in “The World’s Fastest Indian”, to retired Air New Zealand Fokker Friendships to the most colossal collection of nostalgic toys. The old winking Santa that used to grace the Farmers store in Auckland is now here, too.  

Inside the National Transport & Toy Museum. Photo / Mike Yardley 

Where to stay? Marina Terrace Apartments is as dreamy as it gets, with its collection of premium lakefront apartments and studios. This is super-sized accommodation and fully-appointed with all the home comforts, including fully-equipped kitchen, expansive lounges, gas fires, expansive outdoor dining areas and designer bathrooms. Alongside the luxurious accommodations, your stay also includes on-site access to the heated private indoor swimming pool, spa pool and gymnasium. This is wow-factor accommodation in Wānaka. 

For more trip inspiration on things to do, places to see and more memorable experiences around wonderful Wānaka, check out the official website. 

Mike Yardley is Newstalk ZB’s resident traveller and can be heard every week on Jack Tame Saturday Mornings.