It may surprise you to know that Hong Kong only fully reopened to international visitors in February, after stringent traveller restrictions were imposed throughout the pandemic. In the five months since fully reopening, ten million visitors have swept back to Hong Kong. From conquering mountain trails to wallowing in the trippy glow of neon-lit streetscapes, I’m a fanboy of Hong Kong and its exhilarating array of experiences. I love how you can effortlessly hop-scotch your way from ancient temples and ostentatious skyscrapers, before plunging into bustling city markets and chilling out at seaside villages, all in a matter of hours.
As part of the city’s global reopening, the Hong Kong Tourism Board encouraged 30,000 locals to rate their best city picks and the top-billers were compiled into a list of Hong Kong’s 15 most-recommended experiences. You can see the list on the Discover Hong Kong website. On the foodie front, Dim Sum, Egg Tarts, Wonton Noodles and Bubble Waffles were unsurprisingly ranked the firm favourites. When I think of Hong Kong, the great Cantonese pastime of yum cha restaurants fast springs to mind, where tucking into dim sum and Chinese tea endures as one of life’s great pleasures. Luk Yu Teahouse on Hong Kong island is one of my favourite venues, where bamboo steamers are piled high with classic dim sum, alongside those delicious pineapple buns with butter.
Still going strong is Tim Ho Wan, the dim sum specialist, long-billed as the world’s cheapest Michelin-starred restaurant. (They haven’t actually earned a Michelin star for a couple of years.) But now offering several outlets in Hong Kong and 40 Tim Ho Wan branches worldwide, queuing is still part of the deal at this “Fergbuger-esque” eatery. All the dim sum dishes are made to order and you can certainly taste the difference. Tim Ho Wan is dumpling nirvana. Think steamed shrimp dumplings, peanut and pork dumplings, sticky rice in lotus leaf, steamed beef balls with bean curd… and many more pearly bundles of joy.
Bubble Waffles are Hong Kong’s ultimate street snack. The egg waffle first appeared on the streets in the 1950s as a way to use broken eggs that couldn’t be sold. These delicious waffles are crispy and crunchy on the outside and soft and fluffy on the inside, with just the right whisper of sweetness. They remain a legendary Hong Kong street icon and today’s favourite fillings are always being changed up, whether they’re stuffed with chocolate chips, ice cream, pork floss, black sesame seeds or salted duck egg.
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Sandwiched between the sky-high glass and steel towers, Hong Kong’s architectural heritage is best embodied by the low-rise and sturdy, tong lau. Literally translating as 'Chinese building' these buildings typify 19th century urban living in Hong Kong. Tong lau became part of Hong Kong’s urban makeup from the 1850s, when the Chinese began to settle in Hong Kong and imported their urban shophouse tradition. In the past few years, there’s been an increasing trend to restore these architectural treasures, elevating their stature in the city’s urban fabric. There’s some fabulous heritage walking tours focused on the tong lau revival. One of the best examples is in Wan Chai, where three brightly-hued tenement blocks dating back to the 1920s, stand proudly restored in sunflower yellow, azure and tangerine. There’s also the Hong Kong House of Stories, a dedicated museum focused on conserving tong lau.
Hong Kong’s credentials as a cocktail-making powerhouse are red-hot and this month the city is hosting Asia’s 50 Best Bars awards ceremony. Eight Hong Kong bars featured on last year’s fiercely competitive list. You could happily while away quite some time sampling an array of divine cocktail spots, accompanied by equally irresistible city views. Argo Bar is one of my favourites, situated in a prime spot overlooking Victoria Harbour, serving creative cocktails including Asian-sourced ingredients, like jasmine, soy whey and wasabi. Skye on Causeway Bay is another celestial roost for panoramic sundowners.
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Nothing screams Hong Kong more so than the skyline of Victoria Harbour, the birthplace of the city itself. From its origins as a scattered collection of fishing villages, the harbour is still Hong Kong’s heart, edged with a throbbing, electric skyline. Sitting high above Nathan Road, the terrace at Eyebar enjoys one of the best vantage points on the spectacle. If you have a serious head for heights, and with one of the best cocktail and wine lists in town, head to Ozone on the 118th floor of the ICC. Situated over 1600 feet in the sky, with unbelievable aerial views across the dazzle of Hong Kong, Ozone holds the title as the world's highest rooftop bar.
Ramping up the skyline theatrics, every night at 8pm, “A Symphony of Light” transforms the harbour into a watery arena for the multimedia light show. More than 40 landmark buildings from both sides of the harbour unite to form a harmonious canvas, with a myriad of searchlights, lasers, LED screens and lighting installations powering the audiovisual extravaganza. Another enticing option is to jump onboard Dukling, a traditional Chinese red-sail junk, for their nightly symphony cruise, immersing you in the splendour of the show from the middle of the harbour.
Speaking of the water, as one of the oldest forms of transportation in Hong Kong, the Star Ferry is a sightseeing staple, faithfully carrying passengers across the harbour for 125 years. Although road and rail tunnels now criss-cross the harbour, the Star Ferry still holds a revered place in locals’ hearts, providing a scenic way to hop across the harbour, with all its charm. Nine double-ended bottle-green and ivory boats ply the waters today, and a crossing is still cheap as chips – less than NZ$1. The onboard materials are timeless too. Brass, teak, wax and canvas details have all aged, oxidised and weathered gracefully, lending grandeur to the ferries’ enduring heritage as a classic Hong Kong symbol.
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Equally emblematic is The Peak Tram, a 135 year old legend of the tracks, and Asia’s oldest funicular railway. Whisking passengers up to the upper levels of Hong Kong Island and Victoria Peak, the tram reopened last August after a lengthy renovation project. Alternatively, hike down the Morning Trail from the Peak Galleria, as you savour the emerald-hues of the hills and those stellar views across the gleaming towers to Victoria Harbour. I also knocked off the Dragon’s Back Trail, a local hiking favourite. This wildly popular escape from the urban jungle, starts on Shek O Road near To Tei Wan Village, on Hong Kong Island. The trail provides sublime views of Shek O, Tai Long Wan, Stanley, Tai Tam, and the South China Sea. It’s an 8km hike and can easily be knocked off in four hours. Reward yourself with a soothing soak in Big Wave Bay.
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Connecting Kiwis to Hong Kong and beyond for 40 years, Cathay Pacific’s Auckland services will be complemented with the resumption of seasonal summer services between Christchurch and Kong Kong, from December. The Cathay Group has been progressively rebuilding its passenger capacity post-pandemic, and is on track to be flying to 80 destinations by year’s end. If you’re heading to Europe, Cathay Pacific services an excellent range of ports, flying from Hong Kong to Milan, Amsterdam, Paris, Madrid, Zurich, Frankfurt, London and Manchester.
Blending the best of cutting-edge entertainment technology and cabin design, I’m a big fan of the Airbus A350-900 and A350-1000. Cathay Pacific was the first carrier to bring these aircraft models to New Zealand, who proudly operate one of the youngest fleets in the world. Technologically advanced, the A350 aircraft feature a range of comfort-focused innovations which reduce noise levels and lower the effective cruising cabin altitude, which is a big boost to well-being, helping to mitigate passenger fatigue.
They’re remarkably fuel-efficient too, treading softer on the environment. But it’s the whisper-quiet ambience and LED mood lighting that is particularly impressive, delivering an unsurpassed cabin experience. Wi-Fi is available on board across all classes, so you can surf the internet, sort your emails, and stay connected on social media. The next-generation HD personal entertainment system, boasting Asia-Pacific’s most extensive entertainment library in the air, from the latest Hollywood releases and HBO Max to live satellite TV news channels including CNN and the BBC.
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If you’re up at the pointy end, the A350’s Business Class offering includes enhanced frills such as fully-flat beds which are three inches longer than their predecessors; extra stowage space within easy reach, and a personal “Do Not Disturb” and “Wake up Call” functions in your entertainment system. I enjoyed ample sleep time, thanks to the indulgent comfort lying fully flat, nestled in luxurious 400-thread-count Bamford bedlinen.
My ‘bedtime pack’ featured a padded seat mattress, Bamford duvet, super plump pillow and slippers. The shell design of the Business seats accentuates the sense of space, privacy and peace. Bamford goodies also filled the amenity bags, including face mist, eye shades, hand moisturiser, lip balm, toothbrush, paste and mouthwash.
The contemporary Business menu showcases bold international flavours, classic Hong Kong favourites and light, healthy options, complemented with fine wines, champagnes, premium spirits and their handcrafted pale ale, Betsy beer. I also recommend their Cathay Delight mocktail, a deliciously reviving blend of kiwi fruit, coconut milk and fresh mint.
From refreshing breakfasts and sophisticated dinners to cheeky midnight snacks, you can expect around-the-clock, high-end restaurant standard dining. Cathay Pacific is currently collaborating with Hong Kong’s Michelin-starred restaurant Duddell’s, showcasing curated dishes for flights out of Hong Kong. For dinner, I feasted on drunken prawns with aged Huadiao wine, followed by steamed halibut with cordyceps flowers, accompanied by choy sum and steamed jasmine rice.
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With three Business Class lounges on offer at Hong Kong Airport, The Pier is Cathay Pacific’s largest airport lounge, inspired by Hong Kong’s indelible experiences. Feast on the city’s flavours and expansive home comforts at your leisure, from the delightfully elegant Teahouse to the wildly popular Noodle Bar. I also loved the deli-style Food Hall, brimming with quick bites like tapas, cheese boards, salads and fish platters. For best fares and seats to suit, head to www.cathaypacific.com/nz
Mike Yardley is our resident traveller on Jack Tame Saturday Mornings.
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