As thousands descended on the Bay of Islands for annual Waitangi commemorations, the sun sizzled in the sky, a hue of yellow and orange flattening itself against the horizon.
The land lay parched and tinder-dry amid the summer heat.
It would be a sign of things to come.
Each year, both Government parties and the Opposition make the pilgrimage north to discuss Māori issues, and reflect on Aotearoa’s national day.
But in 2020, many of those issues had to share the spotlight with a political stoush that violently simmered, then boiled over on the paepae.
Politicians were welcomed together onto Te Whare Rūnanga - the upper marae - at Waitangi’s treaty grounds on Tuesday, before tensions erupted.
While there were calls for free dental care for Māori, and concerns raised about the high number of Māori in prison, the real challenge was laid down by National leader Simon Bridges.
Cue the political theatre.
Waitangi. @NewstalkZB #nzpol pic.twitter.com/EuuJqznv9G
— Aaron Dahmen (@dahmenaaron) February 3, 2020
Bridges launched into his speech, attacking the Government on non-delivery, and promising a four-lane highway from Auckland to Whangarei if National’s elected in September.
He made it explicitly clear, for better or worse, that this is an election year and National’s looking for votes.
It was fire in the belly of Deputy Prime Minister Winston Peters.
He hadn’t planned to speak, but was introduced by NZ First Minister Shane Jones as feeling like he had to "set the record straight”.
Peters criticised Bridges for "politicising" Waitangi, and "trampling all over the significance of the event”.
He quoted Elvis Presley, “if you're looking for trouble, you've come to the right place".
Many agreed with Peters’ sentiments, with political commentators arguing Bridges looked out of place, because he brought up politics at a place where it isn’t usually.
Some even went so far to say he was badly advised, or didn’t listen to the advice he was given.
The drama came only days after Bridges ruled out National working with NZ First in any post-election coalition talks.
With the crowd on high alert, Minister for Treaty Negotiations Andrew Little stood up, and flatly refused to let Bridges v Peters steal his thunder.
A highlight of the week, the marae’s attention turned to a very impressive Little, who gave an eight minute speech in te reo Māori, without notes and as a non-native speaker.
He talked about the importance of Te Tiriti o Waitangi, and his commitment to redress for treaty breaches.
Little told reporters afterwards he'd started learning te reo some years ago, but began work on that address before Christmas. Prime Minister Jacinda Ardern praised the effort, and said the Labour Party caucus was incredibly moved.
Prime Minister Jacinda Ardern. #nzpol pic.twitter.com/L7mABv9YF3
— Aaron Dahmen (@dahmenaaron) February 4, 2020
In her speech, Ardern asked the crowd to hold her to account, renewing the same challenge she'd issued at her first Waitangi as Prime Minister in 2018.
She also pointed out, there's "more mahi to do".
With that, the Government parties went into the following day’s Iwi Chairs Forum flying high, despite major concerns over water rights, lands disputes, and Oranga Tamariki on the table.
Dames Tariana Turia and Naida Glavish were both in attendance, after recently filing an urgent claim to the Waitangi Tribunal about Whānau Ora funding.
At the meeting, a ‘work programme’ was agreed on between Government and Iwi leaders.
Ardern emerged positive, and optimistic, about the dialogue.
Earlier on Wednesday, she helped cut the ribbon at the opening of a new $14.6m museum in Waitangi, funded through the Provincial Growth Fund.
The museum, Te Rau Aroha, tells the story of Māori commitment to the armed forces.
Writer and poet Tayi Tibble left those gathered in awe with her poem, talking about the difficulty of seeing a loved one go to war. Meanwhile, politicians and dignitaries paid tribute to the two surviving veterans of the 28th Māori battalion.
With political tensions slowly dissipating, and as the promise of a new dawn beckoned, the Prime Minister made one more splash.
On a scorching day in the Far North, she was spotted paddling in a waka around the bay, much to the delight of onlookers.
Summer splash. Excitement for onlookers at Waitangi, when PM Jacinda Ardern boarded a waka this afternoon. @NewstalkZB #nzpol pic.twitter.com/1DbzKdc0cF
— Aaron Dahmen (@dahmenaaron) February 5, 2020
Then, Waitangi Day arrived.
Hordes of people flowed onto the treaty grounds to remember 180 years since the signing of Te Tiriti o Waitangi.
The multi-religious dawn service kicked off while it was still dark, with Jacinda Ardern calling for unity between Māori and Pākehā.
Soon after, daylight crept up over the jet black sky, and bacon and eggs wafted from the barbeque, as Ardern and her ministers took charge for serving breakfast to the masses.
And as many Kiwis continued commemorations across the country, the politicians left Waitangi - their duties complete.
There are still questions though.
Could next year see a political return to Te Tii Marae – the lower marae, after all political events were moved to the upper marae in 2017?
What to make of Shane Jones, and his all-but-confirmed tilt at the Northland seat?
And the Māori Party. Where does it fit come September 19?
Answers will have to wait, for now.
This week, Parliament returns as the House sits for the first time ahead of an intensive election campaign.
Welcome to 2020. We’re well and truly underway.
- Aaron Dahmen is a political reporter with Newstalk ZB
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