A Wānaka-based mountain guide who died while attempting to ascend Aoraki Mt Cook with a client has been remembered as a devoted father and husband who touched the lives of many.

Thomas Vialletet was part of a group of four climbers who encountered difficulties on the west side of the mountain late on Monday night this week.

On a Givealittle page set up to support the family of Vialletet, he was remembered as “a loving father, husband, and integral part of the Wānaka and New Zealand guiding whānau”.

“Through his guidance, kindness and professionalism, Thomas profoundly touched the lives of countless clients, mentees and friends,” the page read.

“His expertise and passion for the mountains earned him deep respect across the entire guiding and climbing community. His absence will be hugely missed by all who knew him.”

The page read that following the tragic accident, the focus was now on “the family he cherished”.

“Thomas leaves behind his loving partner, Danielle, and their two beautiful young children, Layla and Ethan.

“Thomas was the core provider for his family, and their financial security was dependent on the income generated by their small guiding business.

“His sudden loss means Danielle and the children face the immediate challenge of losing their main source of income, compounding their immense grief.”

Vialletet grew up in the French Alps, where he climbed, skied and explored mountains for more than two decades.

But his quest for mountain adventures brought him to New Zealand and he was a climbing instructor before becoming a full IFMGA mountain and ski guide, his business profile says.

He was also part of the French National Young Alpinism Team between 2009-2012.

Vialletet was part of a group of four climbers that got into trouble on the west side of the mountain late on Monday night this week. Photo / Supplied

The bodies of Vialletet and his American client were recovered this morning from Aoraki Mt Cook.

Canterbury Aoraki area commander inspector Vicki Walker confirmed one of the men was from the United States and police continued to work with the US consulate.

Walker said the process will now begin to return the two men to their families.

“I want to thank all of those involved in the rescue and recovery, it has been a difficult period, most of all for the families of the two climbers and the wider community,” Walker said.

Thomas Vialletet was an internationally recognised Wānaka-based mountain guide and father. Photo / Supplied

Earlier, Sergeant Kevin McErlain said a group was attempting to summit Aoraki Mt Cook when two of them, connected by a rope, fell close to the summit.

According to the New Zealand Mountain Guides Association (NZMGA), the pair were part of a team of four, including two guides and two clients, completing a grand traverse of Aoraki Mt Cook.

NZMGA president Anna Keeling said the guide, who is yet to be formally named by the New Zealand Police, was a respected and valued member of the NZMGA.

“They were an integral part of our guiding community,” Keeling said.

A formal investigation into the incident will also take place.

“There will be an opportunity for the NZMGA to understand and share more about what happened in this tragic accident,” Keeling said.

“NZMGA’s focus is now on those most affected, and our priority is supporting the family, including their partner and children, as well as our wider guiding community during this extremely difficult time.”

The NZMGA website reads that an IFMGA-qualified mountain guide is the highest guiding qualification available. It is recognised worldwide and shows a guide is qualified in both climbing and ski disciplines and can guide internationally.

Walker said at about 11.20pm on Monday police were made aware of four climbers needing assistance on the west side of the mountain.

“A helicopter from Queenstown flew to Wānaka, while a helicopter from Dunedin flew straight to the mountain and began searching,” Walker said.

“The helicopter from Dunedin located two climbers in the group, who were airlifted from the mountain at around 2.15am.

“The two helicopters completed extensive searches throughout the night for the remaining two climbers, as conditions on the mountain were calm and clear, but were unsuccessful.”

Walker said the two missing climbers were located deceased at about 7am yesterday.

She said police worked alongside the Wānaka Alpine Cliff Rescue Team and the Department of Conservation (DoC) to recover the bodies of the two climbers.

“The two climbers who were airlifted last night were uninjured, and support is being provided.”

Mountain Safety Council chief executive Mike Daisley said this time of year is the busy mountaineering season, with many climbers heading into the mountains.

“Recent fine weather has drawn many mountaineers to the high alpine, with multiple guided and recreational teams summiting Aoraki Mount Cook over the past week,” Daisley said.

“Current conditions on the mountain are considered ideal for mountaineering, with firm overnight snow conditions and well-filled glaciers following early spring snowstorms.”

DoC Aoraki Mt Cook operations manager Sally Jones said the Aoraki Mt Cook Search and Rescue (SAR) team responded to the incident and are now back in full operation despite suspending services earlier this year.

The team were suspended from June 20-September 20, after dropping to just one member following several staff departures.

The Department of Conservation's Aoraki Mountain Rescue Team is one of the most advanced rescue teams in the country. Photo / George Heard

Jones confirmed a member of DoC Aoraki SAR assisted in the rescue and recovery operation.

“A DoC Aoraki SAR staff member was picked up from Wānaka last night and flown back to Aoraki Mount Cook,” Jones said.

“The DoC Aoraki SAR team then responded to the rescue and recovery incidents on Aoraki Mount Cook.”

While suspended, rescue operations in the Southern Alps were co-ordinated by the police or the Rescue Co-ordination Centre, which could deploy nearby Alpine Cliff Rescue teams, LandSar volunteers, or helicopter crews out of Wānaka and Queenstown.

At the time, DoC said the move was not unusual for the time of year.

“We typically see staff members stay on the team for a few years, and the end of the summer season is a natural point to step away, so this is not unexpected. These are intense roles due to the nature of the work,” Jones said.

New Zealand’s deadliest peak

Known for its technically challenging faces, Aoraki Mt Cook has earned its title of New Zealand’s deadliest peak.

The mountain towers above its neighbours at 3724m and can be seen from the West Coast as far north as Greymouth.

Aoraki Mt Cook is New Zealand's tallest mountain and towers above its neighbours at 3724m. Photo / George Heard

It’s a mountaineering marvel that adventurers and tourists have flocked to for more than a century – and where 62 people have vanished without a trace.

In December 2024, American climbers Kurt Blair, 56, Carlos Romero, 50, and an unnamed Canadian national died on Aoraki Mt Cook.

The trio were reported overdue to return from their planned ascent of the mountain.

Kurt Blair, 56, and Carlos Romero, 50, are two of the trio who went missing from Aoraki Mt Cook on December 2, 2024.

They flew into Plateau Hut at 3.30pm on Saturday November 30, planning to summit via Zurbriggen Ridge.

But they did not turn up for their 8.30am flight on Monday, December 2.

A search and rescue operation was launched for the group.

A search and rescue operation was launched for the group after they did not turn up for their 8.30am flight on Monday December 2 2024. Photo / George Heard

A helicopter then found further climbing-related items on the mountain, including a top and energy gels.

Drone footage showed where the climbers attempted to traverse the slopes below a ridge.

Their bodies were never recovered.

Jazlyn Whales is a multimedia journalist based in the Christchurch newsroom.