Few British cities can match eye-catching York and its wondrous layers of history. Northern England’s walled city was founded by the ancient Romans, was conquered by the Vikings and also boasts a trove of medieval riches. The city’s storied history is woven into virtually every brick and beam. All these ingredients underpin York’s star-power, serving up a stirring sense of Ye Olde England, when tripping the UK. But it’s so much more than just a living museum.  

York continues to evolve, on-trend with the hip and chic, with a wave of hipster hangouts and a foodie hot-spot too, touting a slew of Michelin restaurants, anchored by Yorkshire produce. I’ve just enjoyed a fresh fling with York as part of Trafalgar’s Real Britain Tour. This superbly guided tour is like a tasting plate of Britain’s finest, blending the best of England, Scotland and Wales into a seamless experience. 

I loved striking out along York’s City Walls, known as the “Bar Walls.” They’re a sublime piece of history that the ancient Romans built to fortify the city.  There’s over 3km of surviving masonry, and the elevated perch delivers great vistas of the city from all the best angles. The whole route takes around two hours to complete. My effervescent Trafalgar travel director Selene led our convivial group on a thrilling introductory walking tour through the medieval streets of York’s centre, while regaling us with stories about some of the city’s most legendary inhabitants.  

Walking the York City walls. Photo / Supplied

The who’s who roll call included Dick Turpin. The notorious highwayman is buried here. He jumped off the gallows and killed himself, before they could hang him. My grandmother once told me that one of Turpin’s fellow riders is in our family tree! Then there’s Guy Fawkes, who was born here, just behind York Minster. Even further back in history, Constantine the Great is perhaps the city's most famous past resident. He was acclaimed as the Roman Emperor in York in 306AD, credited as being the Roman ruler to embrace Christianity after centuries of resistance.

Towering above the tangle of the slinky old streets, a visit to York’s crowning glory, the colossal York Minster is a do-not-miss. Northern Europe’s largest medieval Gothic cathedral is a showstopper. Taking 250 years to construct, and completed in 1470, the honey-hued architectural masterpiece is majestic from the outside, aglow in the sunlight. But the seduction intensifies once you’re inside, with all its compelling features like the intricate and ornate ceiling in the Chapter House, the hallowed corridors, the nose-picking gargoyles, and the spectacularly crafted 128 stained-glass windows – headlined by the Rose Window. If you have a head for heights, climb the Minster's 275 steps for the most eye-popping panorama in excelsis.  

York Minster. Photo / Mike Yardley 

Nearly as iconic is the Shambles, a perfectly imperfect, medieval, cobblestone street that used to be the home to York’s butchers. The shadiness of the street was deliberately designed to protect the shelves of meat. Half-timbered crooked buildings lean at implausible angles in this atmospheric lane which brims with a stack of artisan stores like Shambles Kitchen, Monk Bar Chocolatiers and The Shop That Must Not Be Named. The latter is an independent gift shop that specialises in officially licensed Harry Potter merchandise. Wands, anyone?  

The Shambles was the inspiration for Diagon Valley in the Harry Potter universe. I also loved the Shambles Sausage and Pie Company, although you’ll need to get here before midday to bag the best pies. In the adjoining open-air Shambles Market, there are fishmongers, butchers, bakers, food, flower and craft markets, and street eats. Definitely browse the daily market buzz. You’ll notice the word "Gate" all over York, which is an old Danish word for street or area. My favourite named street is Whip-ma-whop-ma gate. It is York's tiniest street and means "neither one thing or another." 

Ambling through the Shambles. Photo / Mike Yardley 

A new wave of bakeries has added to York’s appeal with the cool kids in town. Haxby Bakehouse is one of the new local heroes, swooned over for its French-style sourdough. You can’t go wrong with a slow-cooked beef cheek and chilli jam sourdough sandwich! Add to your check list, Bluebird Bakery, tucked away in the Shambles, for their divine curry puffs.  

A more traditional mainstay is Bettys, a beloved York landmark, where you’ll probably have to queue to get a prime table. This resolutely old-school café and tearooms is where monochrome-dressed staff serve up delicious food and confectionery, cakes and pastries. Menu highlights include the signature Swiss Rosti and the homemade schnitzel. If the queues look too formidable opt for the takeaway patisserie. The vanilla slices are fluffy and crisp - custard-cream pieces of pure patisserie bliss. 

Sweet treats at Bettys Cafe and Tea Rooms. Photo / Supplied

Seek out some of York’s atmospheric old pubs. The city is not short of imbibing establishments, with more than 365 at last count. My favourite old boozers include the Guy Fawkes Inn, with its marvellously wonky wooden floors and a history lesson on Yorkshire’s notorious plotter. And drink in the history at The Blue Bell, York’s smallest pub. It’s a pint-sized wood-panelled Edwardian beauty, dating back to 1798, with Irish snug vibes. 

Billed as the “Most haunted city in Europe” York groans with ghost stories and sightings, like the Grey Lady at York Theatre Royal, or the Golden Fleece pub which apparently is inhabited by 15 ghosts. If haunted happenings is your bag, there are tours galore. But for a walking tour with a difference, stake out the York Cat Hunt, a quirky walking trail around the city. A century ago, Sir Stephen Aitcheson put two cat sculptures on his building in Low Ousegate to scare away rats. The idea caught on with many locals installing cat figures as lucky charms. Local architects have since designed buildings with little black cats planted on top to further the tradition. The York Cat Trail takes in all the fabulous feline installations around York. The trail ends at York’s only cat cafe, The Cat’s Whiskers. Have a cuppa with the kitties or just tag along for the purr-fest. 

York has an impressive assortment of museums, like the Jorvik Centre, where I took a liking to the Vikings legacy. Jorvik is the Viking name for York, and the centre is built on the site of the original Viking settlement, brilliantly reconstructing how life was in the 10th century. Alongside the excavation digs, ride a "time-machine car" which recreates the sights, smells and sounds of Jorvik life, studded with life-like animatronics. York Castle Museum, housed in two old prisons, is where Dick Turpin spent his final days. You can see his cell and even lie in his bed.

Jorvik Viking Centre animatronics. Photo / Supplied

But something to really toot your horn about is the free-to-enter National Railway Museum, celebrating its 50th anniversary. Boasting 100 locomotives, it’s a trainspotter’s fantasy, a giant trainset made real, as you trawl the staggering collection in the world’s largest railway museum. It enjoys enormous appeal beyond just the rain-jacket brigade. You’ll discover what made Stephenson's "Rocket" so successful. You’ll see the world’s fastest steam train, the Mallard, and Shinkansen, the Japanese bullet train is on display too. Plus, it’s home for the Flying Scotsman. Get amongst it! 

Trafalgar’s 6-day Real Britain tour is a cracking romp covering iconic destinations like London, Bath, Cardiff, Liverpool, the Lake District, Edinburgh and York. In addition to guided sightseeing, there’s ample free time for personal discovery. In York, we also enjoyed a Be My Guest experience, heartily treated to a home-cooked roast in the stately residence of Whitwell House. It’s these sorts of authentic cultural encounters, along with local specialist guides in Edinburgh and Cardiff that enrich the entire trip with personal, meaningful connections. 2026 pricing for the tour is from $3,056pp. For full details head to trafalgar.com/en-nz/tours/real-britain  

Mike Yardley is Newstalk ZB’s resident traveller and can be heard every week at 11.20am on Saturday Mornings with Jack Tame.