It’s been three years since I was last in Tauranga and it’s so uplifting to see cranes in the sky, the glossy sheen of brand-new buildings, and the civic centre’s sure-footed makeover taking shape. Fresh and inviting public spaces are continuing to unfurl across the Te Papa peninsula and waterfront. After paying my regards to the delightful Hairy Maclary and friends sculptures adorning the fabulously enticing children’s playground on Tauranga’s waterfront in a story book setting, I checked out The Strand Reserve and waterfront boardwalk. It has immeasurably enhanced the city centre’s sense of connection with Tauranga Harbour. There’s a great new sense of art-filled vitality sprouting in the city centre. A starring specimen in Red Square is the stunning public sculpture called Rauhea. 

Red Square in downtown Tauranga. Photo / Mike Yardley

After two years of closure and transformation, Toi Tauranga Art Gallery reopened three months ago. It’s a gorgeously refreshed, multi-level space, headlined by a soaring atrium gallery, which is currently featuring a large-scale augmented reality exhibition by Kereama Taepa of Tauranga Moana. Using AR technology, Taepa explores the origins of Māori carving, inspired by the way larvae burrow through wood. It’s utterly absorbing. There’s a wide range of gallery spaces and one of my favourite exhibitions is Land of My Ancestors by Darcy Nicholas. It spans nearly six decades of artistic practice, featuring drawings, paintings, carvings, and jewellery exploring Māori identity, land, and memory. It’s truly beautiful. 

Te Manawataki o Te Papa is the official name for the full civic precinct makeover compellingly taking shape and set to be completed in two years’ time. Alongside the new art gallery, it will also encompass a library and community hub, civic whare (public meeting house) and magnificent new museum. The gallery is also home to Breadhead, who have opened their latest café here, swooned over for their delicious pastries, sourdough, sandwiches and sweet treats.  

I also enjoyed a lovely lunch at Florence Bistro, another vibrant newcomer to Devonport Road, holding court on the ground floor of the city council’s brand-new eco-building. Florence offers cabinet fare, an all-day menu, and Mediterranean-inspired dishes, whether you’re grabbing a quick bite or settling in for a sit-down meal. I plumped for their divine smashed meatballs with sugo rosso and poached egg on focaccia. So good! 

Smashed meatballs at Florence. Photo / Mike Yardley

For an absorbing dollop of history and storytelling, I met up with Les Millard as we casually hop-scotched through a treasury of landmark sites across Te Papa. In 1838, mana whenua entrusted 1333 acres of land to the Church Missionary Society (CMS) to safeguard Māori interests and support the church and community. Completed in 1847, the Elms Mission House is one of our finest Georgian houses, built for the Reverend Brown, who came to New Zealand in 1829 as a CMS missionary. As he set about establishing his mission station, inter-tribal warfare on the peninsula saw hundreds massacred at the hands of Titore and Hone Heke’s war expedition. Nowadays, the impeccably tended lawns and tranquil gardens create a storied urban oasis, overlooking what was the original Tauranga shoreline prior to land reclamation, on the northern tip of Te Papa peninsula. Rev. Brown and his wife created what is now one of the oldest New Zealand European gardens south of the Bay of Islands. The Oak Tree at the corner of the north lawn grew from an acorn brought from England by Rev. Brown in 1829.  

The Elms Mission House. Photo / Tourism Bay of Plenty 

The entire setting bears an uncanny resemblance to the Treaty House and grounds at Waitangi. Kauri logs were rafted down from the Coromandel to be pit sawn on site. Alongside the house is New Zealand's oldest free-standing library, dating from 1838, containing more than 1,000 books which belonged to Reverend Brown. The mission station played a central role in the battle of Gate Pā, when the land wars broke out in the 1860s. Imperial troops took over the Mission Station buildings as they waged war. Brown was torn between loyalty to Māori, to whom he had dedicated his life, and his natural bonds with fellow countrymen. The ensuing Gate Pā battle took place on 21 April 1864.  

The great Māori victory was followed by the battle of Te Ranga a month later, reversing the situation, with the British troops victorious.  If you’ve never been, do not miss the battle site of Gate Pa, 5km south of the Mission Station site, where history oozes from the earth, while eight carved pillars (pou) memorialise the leaders on both sides. The pa itself was designed as a trap to draw in the British troops and the British army later used the fortifications at Gate Pā as a model for trenching, with many military scholars believing Gate Pā gave rise to ‘trench warfare’ in the First World War. Les also took me to the cemetery at Otamataha Pa, where many leading figures from this tumultuous period of history are laid to rest. Les is an enthralling Māori guide, unpeeling the back-story of Te Papa with grace, wit and charisma, while also sharing with you all manner of hidden gems. 

Les Millard on a guided tour. Photo / Mike Yardley

Dine at Izakai, at the Bayfair Shopping Centre. Les’ son runs the joint. They’ve fostered a red-hot reputation among foodies for their Māori and Japanese fusion cuisine, steeped in the values of manaakitanga and sustainability. The name Izakai is a great play on the term, Izakaya, a type of Japanese bar in which a variety of inexpensive dishes and snacks are served to accompany the alcoholic drinks. Izakai? Nosh heartily on a variety share plates including Creamed Paua and Prawn Dumplings with cauliflower puree, crispy shallot, spring onion and chilli; Horopito Crusted Lamb Ribs adorned in pea and watercress puree with Kawakawa jelly; and Kaitaia Fire Japanese Fried Chicken with teriyaki, yuzu kosho mayo and schichi-mi. It’s a radiantly inventive culinary experience, artfully executed and gracefully presented. 

Speaking of food, no visit to Tauranga is complete without a fresh feed from Bobby’s Fresh Fish Market. This city institution hums with trade from early morning to sundown. I’ve never seen so many people patiently lined up for their fill of freshly cooked snapper, in beef fat not oil, at 10am. The shop edges the fishing wharf where the fresh produce is brought ashore. How’s that for a zero-kilometre meal? The in-store selection spans mussels, kina, oysters, prawns, seafood kebabs and 10 varieties of fresh fish, but you can’t beat the snapper. Nothing beats ordering your meal and devouring it, right alongside the fishing boat that delivered most of the day’s catch. Charting up nearly five decades of fans, it’s a local legend. 

I based myself at the Quest Mount Maunganui, a lovely boutique offering just off Maunganui Road, that opened two years ago. With off-street parking and generously appointed rooms, it’s a serene roost for a city stay, with a choice of accommodations ranging from studios to one and two bedroom apartments. The elemental brilliance of Mount Maunganui and the crowning grandeur of Mauao is a dreamy location that I could never tire of.  

Quest Mount Maunganui. Photo / Supplied 

There’s no denying that January’s deadly landslide at the Mount has tinged this blessed place with the wrenching ache of tragedy. It was so poignant to watch a bunch of young international tourists paying their respects to the victims, by adding their own heartfelt tributes to the wall of messages. It was confronting to see the base of Mauao still completely fenced off and the huge brutal scar where the lower slope so fatally gave way. But for all the sadness that still feels quite raw, the Mount is still and will always be an irresistibly beautiful pocket of New Zealand.  

I was eager to support some of the local businesses so heavily impacted by the closure of Adams Ave by cordons, for so long. Rustica Italian Pizzeria is a delight, with a 72-hour sourdough base underpinning their authentic creations. If you share my fetish for fungi, whistle up a Tartufata, with a porcini and cream base, slathered in mozzarella, Provolone, smoked paprika and roasted mushrooms. Right next door, the seductively sweet aroma of hot waffle cones attracts customers for miles to order up a scoop or two at Copenhagen Cones. This mainstay at the Mount is a classic, but if you want to change things up, why not top your cone with a snowghurt (half snowfreeze, half yoghurt)? 

Rustica Pizza. Photo / Mike Yardley 

Maunganui Road positively spills with culinary temptations and will feature heavily in the upcoming Flavours of Plenty Festival. For a cracking start to the day, head to Blondie Diner where the breakfast menu brims with tasty options like corned beef hash, fried chicken waffles and breakfast burritos. Great coffee, too.  

For destination dining, you’re in for an unforgettable night of culinary finesse and theatre at Solera. Now officially a two-hatted restaurant, Solera’s sophisticated but cosy atmosphere sets the stage for a memorable experience. Order up a seat at the kitchen bar counter, to watch the whip-smart chefs in action, right up-close. Tailored for sharing, Solera’s menu moves beyond standard tapas with a Chef’s Menu experience that showcases the restaurant’s finest flavours and dishes. Go really hungry! I noshed my way through a feast of mouth-watering and inventive dishes. Tuna carpaccio with chopped-up ice cucumber cubes and buffalo curd was a highlight, as was the fillet of poached Gemfish with turmeric, fennel and chorizo. For a dessert that I still dream about, don’t skip the Chocolate Tart, consisting of hazelnut praline and milk stout ice cream. 

I rocked my way around the Bay of Plenty in a trusty hybrid Toyota Rav4, courtesy of Ezi Car Rental. I thoroughly enjoyed the Ezi experience, where excellent vehicles, super sharp prices and fast & friendly service are all part of the package. Ezi Car Rental operates an extensive network from 24 branches across the country. They’re everywhere you want to be with vehicles to suit your specific needs. 

Mike Yardley is Newstalk ZB’s resident traveller and can be heard every week on Jack Tame Saturday Mornings.