There’s so much more to wild and woolly Glenorchy than that iconic, historic red shed. Since 1885, the wharf shed has served as a sentinel to the idyllic hamlet’s ebbs and flows, principally deployed as a storage depot for goods transported to and from Glenorchy on steamboats. Nowadays, the photogenic shed’s insta-fame is a constant, in addition to serving as a museum, charting the history of the area. 

Glenorchy is the most restorative, escapist antidote to the buzz and bling of Queenstown’s tourist tempo. Graced by the upper reaches of Lake Whakatipu and the wrapround embrace of serrated, snow-clad peaks, it’s a sigh-inducing and soul-raising setting that I could never tire off. And Glenorchy struts its sustainability stripes at every turn. The Queenstown Lakes region is walking the talk on regenerative tourism and Glenorchy is a star-specimen for the Tiaki promise in action (hearty hospitality and a deeply-held commitment of caring for the environment); and it’s where sustainability is steeped in the DNA of so many operators and enterprises.  

Serenading your arrival into Glenorchy, make your first stop Mrs Woolly’s General Store. From nutritious chef-made takeaway foods for picnics and hikes, to fresh groceries, unique artisan-made gifts and trinkets, outdoor gear and practical kitchenware and this eye-catching store is a veritable emporium of goodness. Their selection of local wool products is superb – nearly as good as their insatiably popular Full Monty gelato sundae, served in a handmade waffle cup. All profits from sales at Mrs Woolly’s benefit the local community trust. 

Spilling into Lake Whakatipu, the glorious Dart River is a braided and glacially-fed river, with iridescent clarity, carving its way into the heart of the mountains of Mt Aspiring National Park. I joined a Dart River Safaris Wilderness Jet excursion, which is an exhilarating jet boat ride. Traversing 90km, it’s the longest jet boat ride in the region and is utterly immersive, as if you’ve been transported to an untouched world where time stands still. My jet boat rider Daniel served up a cracking commentary, prising open the rich history and natural awe of the wilderness.  

We took a stirring forest stroll through Paradise, readily recognisable to many Tolkien Middle Earth fans thanks to Sir Peter Jackson. Back in the water and weaving our way up strands of the braided river, I gazed in wonder at the mighty peaks of the southern reaches of the Main Divide, with peaks named after Greek gods, like Pluto, Amphion, Chaos and Poseidon. But nowhere is more scared to Ngāi Tahu in these parts than the ancient source of pounamu. Oral tradition suggests they first discovered pounamu here hundreds of years ago, at Te Koroka, a reclining giant-shaped mountain, where a seam of pounamu tumbled from the mountain side, close to Mount Earnslaw, which Māori consider as their great guardian of the pounamu resource. It’s a spell-binding romp on the water in the Dart River Valley. www.dartriver.co.nz 

If you’re up for an all-day and intrepid hike, walk in the footsteps of Bilbo Baggins and friends as they strode out of Rivendell and into the Misty Mountains. The Earnslaw Burn Track with its beautiful waterfalls stood in for this celestial slice of Middle Earth. The track starts by the Earnslaw Burn on Lovers Leap Road, 20 minutes out of Glenorchy. Follow the Burn through native bush to open tussock country at the head of the valley to soak up cascading waterfalls and Mount Earnslaw’s spectacular hanging glacier. It’s a 27km hike, out and back, with some tough climbs. It’s not for the faint-hearted. 

Five years ago, Time Magazine declared The Headwaters Eco-Lodge as one of the World’s 100 Greatest Places. he Headwaters Eco Lodge has been created from the ground up to delight and inspire our guests. Whether you’re an intrepid adventurer or relaxation-seeker, this eco-lodge, which was created from the ground up, will sweep you up in its welcome embrace. It’s a hand-crafted masterclass in sustainable design, a triumph in upcycling with many of the spaces crafted from repurposed woolsheds, surrounded in sublime natural beauty.   

Designed according to the Living Building Challenge - the highest level of sustainability standards in the world, the sophisticated onsite energy and water management system and discreet deployment of solar panels have helped slash energy and water use in half, compared to similar facilities. I was blown away by the quality craftsmanship of this very woodsy lodge, from the dining room and living areas to the individual chalets that are scattered around its grounds. You’d struggle to find a better execution of regenerative design, and this net positive energy accommodation provider certainly doesn’t skimp on comforts. I stayed in the Rocky Daisy chalet and like all accommodations, it was luxuriously appointed, with premium linens, original artworks and supremely cosy country furnishings, including ensuite bathroom, and walk-in rain shower. 

Dining is another sparkling revelation, where the talented team of chefs craft dazzling cuisine, steeped in freshly harvested local produce. Much of it is grown in the lodge’s bountiful kitchen garden and foraged from the surrounding countryside. The Chef’s Choice dinner experience starts at 6.30pm. (Bookings are essential if you’re not staying in-house.) The soup sung with flavour, a blend of sweetcorn, lemon grass and coconut. My main was beef eye fillet with kumara, duck fat potatoes, smoked paprika, corn ribs and broccolini. The climax was kaffir lime & coconut panna cotta with a raspberry sorbet. The lavish breakfast buffet was equally splendid. 

The Headwaters Eco-Lodge was the first-ever accommodation facility designed and certified to Living Building Challenge standards, which embodies the world's most rigorous and comprehensive sustainability guidelines. Best of all, this beacon of regenerative tourism is not just environmentally and financially sustainable, but it gives back. All profits go to the local community. It’s an exemplary, ingenious hospitality base for your Glenorchy discoveries. https://theheadwatersecolodge.com 

I had the pleasure of dining with Leslie Van Gelder and Corrine Davis from Glenorchy Dark Skies. Earlier this year, Tāhuna Glenorchy was officially recognised as the 23rd International Dark Sky Sanctuary. Astro-tourism is the perfect fit for this accessible wilderness destination. Could there be a better setting for gazing at the glittering constellations of the southern sky? Make a date with an astro-tour of the night sky in Glenorchy. As you’d expect from a close-knit community of just 500 residents, Leslie and Corrine lend their hand to all manner of community endeavours. Corrine was actually the founder of that irresistible Glenorchy gift store, Frank’s Corner, which brims with a cornucopia of local art, clothing and artisan homewares.  

I also met up with another trail-blazing and inspirational local, Chrissy Becker-Fifield from Southern Lakes Sanctuary. The SLS team does sterling conservation work on predator control, native revegetation, promoting biodiversity and restoring native birdlife. Tracking back to Queenstown, I stopped to take a languid walk in the forest-fringed Bob’s Cove, which is all aflutter with native birds, thanks to their tireless work.  SLS successfully supported the release of Takahe into the Rees Valley in February, following a similar successful release in the Greenstone Valley, two years. They are doing God’s work. Savour a getaway to nature’s regenerative haven of Glenorchy. It’s a revelation. www.queenstownnz.co.nz 

Mike Yardley is Newstalk ZB’s resident traveller and can be heard every week at 11.20am on Saturday Mornings with Jack Tame.