If you’re planning a road-trip in the South Island in the coming months, tack on a scenic foray with the Mid-Canterbury heartland. Easily reached within an hour from Christchurch, it’s an understated, uncrowded region that handsomely rewards the eager explorer, headlined by its spectacular scenic high country and blissful sense of escapism. Fanning out from Ashburton and bounded by the silvery braids of the Rakaia and Rangitata rivers, Mid-Canterbury spans the extremes, from pancake-flat plains to serrated, sky-piercing peaks. The mountains rise up to meet you remarkably quickly, after driving west from Ashburton. Here’s a round-up of some sure-fire favourites to add to your leisurely road- trip.
First-up, Methven. Don’t skip the chance to savour the wrap-around splendour of the Ōpuke Thermal Pools & Spa, which has been a runaway success story since opening three years ago. It’s not only a spectacularly designed pool complex, with mountain fed water powered by the sun, but its economic impact has been profound. It has helped turbocharge Methven’s pitch as a year-round destination – not just a ski town. The Tranquility Pools serve up a premium adult’s exclusive experience including an interconnected network of pools, star lit caves and swim up bar, offering complete indulgence.
ÅŒpuke Thermal Pools & Spa. Photo / Supplied
The elemental design touches, artfully swathed in native grasses, heighten the sense of being at one with nature. The swim up bar service is a delight to watch in action, with all manner of poolside drinks and meals, set afloat in the pool in surprisingly sturdy baskets. My eggs benedict was sensational. Tranquility Pool guests also gain access to the family-friendly Discovery Pools, which run the gamut from relaxation pools to plunge pools and crazy river. If you haven’t taken a dip at Ōpuke yet, you’re in for a real treat. It’s an unforgettable thermal pools experience in New Zealand. But be sure to book a session well in advance, because it has been chock-a-block, day after day, across the summer holidays.
Eager for a spot of lunch in Methven? The emblematic Blue Pub is a main street treasure, celebrating 110 years of trading history this year. First built in 1916, the hotel was roughcast in 1976 to aid its preservation, and painted blue, which was when the Methven Hotel transformed into the Blue Pub. The comprehensive menu spans snacks, salads, platters, pub grub and main meals. You can’t go wrong with their winning Kiwiburger.
The Blue Pub in Methven. Photo / Mike Yardley
Short walks? From Methven, make tracks on SH77, just across the Rakaia River towards Windwhistle and the entrance to the Washpen Falls track. This private walk starts at Old Washpen Falls Woolshed, which charges $10 per adult, for track upkeep. The two-hour loop walk through lush and forested gorges, headlined by Southern Rata trees, begins in the Volcanic Canyon Reserve. Alongside the beauty of the native bush, the sparkling spring-fed creeks and the frothy Washpen Falls, it’s the elevated views across the Canterbury Plains to the sea and rich birdsong that all make this hike such a winner.
Switching-back towards Methven, another superb hike is the Rakaia Gorge walkway. The four-hour long 10km loop walk takes you along glacial and river-carved terraces to a fabulous lookout point. From there, follow the rim of the gorge where you will encounter spectacular geological areas, including lava flows, before descending into a gully under a forest canopy to the Snowdon coal mines. The entrances to several coal mine tunnels can be seen here, before lopping back to the start.
From Rakaia Gorge, head south on the Inland Scenic Route SH72, to Staveley. This snug little hamlet is home to the bright red roofed Staveley Store & Café. Established in 1876 as a home, it became a general store where ice skates were hired for the local outdoors skating rink. Today, this beloved store and café is the go-to for delicious home-baked treats and cabinet food, along with woodfired pizzas. It’s also a go-to for giftwares. The store also showcases a wealth of local artisan products, from locally produced honey, soaps, and pottery to Mt Somers wool blankets. I loved browsing the history of the store and Staveley, which is proudly sported on its walls and in the selection of local books.
Inside the Staveley Store. Photo / Mike Yardley
Just down from the store, luxury lodgings await at the Staveley Boutique Lodge – a Dutch-American barn-style house. This idyllic country home, with its bullnose veranda, is graced with three acres of established gardens, sweeping lawns and a tranquil creek, plus splendid views of Mt. Somers. The spacious guest rooms are beautifully appointed, with style and elegance to the fore. It was previously Dame Lynda Topp’s home for 12 years, before she and wife Donna relocated 6 years ago.
Suitably refuelled and recaffeinated, it’s a very short hop from Staveley to the Sharplin Falls Track. This trail is a family-favourite, threading you through native bush to the cascading waterfall in the Mt Somers foothills. It’s spectacularly scenic, with a glorious bridge crossing a gin-clear stream, wrapped in forest finery, at the start of the track. The round-trip only takes about an hour but it’s an absolute banger of a walk.
Walking the Sharplin Falls Track. Photo / Mike Yardley
Nearby from Staveley, tootle down SH72 to Mt. Somers village and head west to the Hakatere Conservation Park, which boasts a wealth of outdoorsy treats including Mt. Sunday. With expansive views of the Rangitata River and the Southern Alps, this has to be one of the most remote Lord of the Rings locations you can easily access. Many international tourists flock here because it was the filming location for Edoras. Carved by glaciers, this striking hill got its name because boundary riders from the high-country stations would meet here on Sundays to have a good chinwag. The Mt. Sunday walk is an easy stroll, 30 minutes each way.
There’s a swag of gorgeous glacial-formed highland lakes in the area to explore, with mirror-smooth reflective majesty like Clearwater and Emma, and the big daddy, Lake Heron. It was named by Thomas Potts, the first run holder of Hakatere Station and one of New Zealand’s earliest conservationists. If you want to extend your time in the hinterland and enjoy some high-country family hospitality, here’s my top recommendation. I recently stayed at Lake Heron Station, a spectacular high country merino sheep farm. The station provides gorgeous accommodation and dining for guests who love to get off the typical tourist trail. The surrounding mountains and glinting lake give a true sense of remote awe and wonder. This is a multi-generational, New Zealand-owned station under the helm of the delightful Todhunter family, who also offer a range of experiences, including scenic flights, farm tours, fishing and day walks/hikes.
Lake Heron. Photo / DOC
Mike Yardley is Newstalk ZB’s resident traveller and can be heard every week on Jack Tame Saturday Mornings.
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