As Arrowtown glowed in its golden, fiery blaze of autumnal hues, it was a thrill to be back in this treasure-chest township, cradled by nature’s splendour. It’s one of my all-time favourite holiday playgrounds and I was eager for a fresh dip from its glorious offerings. My first stop was The Dishery for a spot of lunch. Expect bistro dining at its best, where locally sourced ethical fresh food underpins its alluring menu. Ever since the goldrush era of the 19th century, the Dudley’s Cottage Precinct where The Dishery is located, has been a social hub. Adjoining the historic Chinese Settlement, this where goldminers would converge to exchange their gold for basic human comforts. The Dishery takes its name from those heady days. Back then, the pan you worked the goldfields with was also the dish you ate your food from. I adored their linguine with confit Remarkable mushrooms, chilli, and parmesan.  

Delightful dishes at The Dishery. Photo / QueenstownNZ

Suitably fuelled, I headed next door to the rental-cycle powerhouse of Better by Bike. Mat Hirst has been at the handlebars of this family business since the Queenstown Trails Trust was established 23 years ago. This charitable organisation has helped transform the region’s outdoorsy pursuits, guiding the development of over 200km of recreational trails throughout the Whakatipu Basin. At last count, over 300,000 users hit these trails every year. Whether you’re a seasoned pro on two wheels, or just an occasional recreational enthusiast like myself, the blaze of trails is ever-expanding. Last year, the Wharehuanui Trail was opened (close to Arrowtown), while just a few weeks ago, the stunning Shotover Gorge Trail joined the mix, lacing up the northern edge of the Whakatipu basin with the wider network. 

One of the starring attractions of the Shotover Gorge Trail is the 108 metre-long Hugo Tunnel, named in honour of the Hugo Charitable Trust that funded its restoration. Over a century ago, this tunnel was constructed to divert the river for gold mining. Sixty years ago, the historic tunnel at Big Beach was abandoned as unfit for purpose. But now it’s been repurposed as quite the frisson for walkers and cyclists, as is the construction of the iconic Kimi-ākau Bridge, strung across the Shotover Gorge as jet boats thunder beneath you.  

Shotover Gorge Trail. Photo / Arrowtown

Meanwhile, a mega-project that is on track to be completed by summer is the 32km Kawarau Gorge Trail, which will link the Gibbston Valley with Bannockburn, connecting up with the Lake Dunstan Trail. Mark that in your diary! From Arrowtown, some cracking rides include the Gibbston River Trail. Following on from the Arrow River Bridges Trail, this beautifully scenic trail passes by the historic Kawarau Suspension Bridge and AJ Hackett Kawarau Bungy Centre, leading into the vine-wreathed slopes of Gibbston’s wine country. Kitted out by Better by Bike with a trusty e-bike, helmet and water bottle, I hit the pedals on the Ayrburn Loop Trail, tootling through Millbrook before joining the Lakes Hayes trail.  

A vision of gold in autumn, the 8km loop trail around Lake Hayes offers soulful mountain and lake vistas, historic cottages (look out for the schist cottage featured in the Mainland cheese ad) and intimate snatches of some of the swanky new builds. The trail is narrow in sections with steep drop offs down to the lake, but the e-bike handled it beautifully. Over the past five years, a mammoth community-led project has been steadily revitalising the health of Lake Hayes. Restoration work has included creating a 2.8ha wetland at the northern end, riparian planting and predator control. 

Glorious Lake Hayes. Photo / Supplied 

On the return run to Arrowtown, I popped into the region’s hottest new playground for foodies. Ayrburn is the Chris Meehan-developed family-friendly precinct that opened 18 months ago and has cultivated a red-hot following for its glittering array of wining and dining venues, all set within a reimagined historic farm estate. It’s like a wow-factor rustic resort for epicureans. For 160 years, this was a working sheep, wheat and dairy farm, but the estate has been radiantly and thoughtfully transformed into a multi-venue culinary and events destination, while honouring its past. Enjoy a wine tasting in the Manure Room where prohibition saw tipplers evade authorities and marvel over the shining bronze statues of Ayrburn’s founding owner, William Paterson’s prized Clydesdale and ram.  

The manicured landscapes and trove of repurposed heritage buildings instantly stir the senses. Bring the kids, there’s plenty of room to play – and the playground installations are superb, including a giant trout and duck you can wiggle through and slide down. There’s an unmistakeable old-world charm to Ayrburn and every meticulously restored venue exudes its own distinctive vibe. The showpiece venue would have to be the Woolshed, where the heritage elements from the original shearing shed structure have been fused with contemporary art, stone finishes and a spell-binding alfresco dining setting. I loved the Manure Room which serves as a discerning cellar door for Ayrburn Wines.  

The Manure Room at Ayrburn. Photo / QueenstownNZ

Ayrburn’s winemakers source grapes from every pocket of Central Otago —Bendigo, Gibbston, Bannockburn— in order to craft a truly exceptional drop, and Manure Room is the only place you can find them. Ayrburn’s central social lawn and stage, The Dell, is another superb space, which is increasingly turning heads with its outdoor concerts and events. Eight venues are now open, including the insatiably popular Bakehouse and Dairy, with more alluring venues in the works.  

Back in Arrowtown, as the setting sun slumped behind the mountains, I took a leisurely stroll along the beating heart of Buckingham St. One of the great goldrush legacies is Arrowtown’s expansive collection of colonial stone and timber cottages, fairytale churches and tree-lined avenues. History hounds? Stop by the Lakes District Museum which presents some fascinating displays on Arrowtown’s rich, pioneering history. The museum’s cluster of gorgeous old properties now includes the original BNZ building, which has been lustily restored to its former glory. 

Right across the road, I pulled up a seat at The Postmasters Kitchen + Bar. Sam Layock and his family have operated this sublime restaurant for 12 years and it’s an evocative spot for dinner. The all-embracing menu will satisfy all tastes, but after much dithering over the temptations, I settled on the Gnocchi with Napoli sauce, semi-dried tomatoes, kalamata olives, parsley and ricotta. Magnifico. Stretch out some stomach space for a sweet ending. The rich and moist Sticky Date pudding with caramel sauce and vanilla ice cream is irresistible.  

If you’re a Pinot Noir devotee like me, Gibbston Valley has a siren-like pull. Home to some of the most awarded Pinot Noir winemakers and wineries on the planet, this small but bountiful valley punches well above its weight on the global scale. Accentuate the seduction by booking a luxury stay at Mt. Rosa Lodge. Introducing Michelle and Stuart, who are the most exceptional, convivial and welcoming hosts. They will treat you royally in their celestial pocket of Gibbston wonder, perched on the higher slopes of the valley.  

Mt Rosa Lodge in the Gibbston Valley. Photo / Supplied

Welcome to viewissimo! Mt Rosa Lodge is set on their private vineyard, with just three luxuriously appointed suites, each with its own distinct personality and colour palette. They’re loaded with creature comforts – the underfloor heating is a godsend on a crisp and crackling morning! The generously sized suites, feature private en-suites, private terraces, top-quality linens and premium bathroom amenities for added indulgence. Inspired by the character of top-end chalets and guesthouses, the accommodation experience extends to the gorgeous, art-filled guest lounge area, where Michelle and Stuart will treat you to their wines and a lavish breakfast (Michelle’s sour dough is exceptional). 

Be sure to partake in a vineyard stroll with Stuart. Their wine, La Bella Rosa, is crafted exclusively from the Pinot Noir grapes cultivated at the Mt Rosa Lodge vineyard, making its debut in 2008. specifically clone 777. La Bella Rosa is meticulously produced on a small scale, yielding just 4-5 barrels annually, with the founder of Gibbston Valley Wines, Alan Brady overseeing the creation of their wine, while Brian Shaw is their esteemed winemaker.  

For more discerning sampling and swilling, book an appointment with the neighbouring Coxs’ Vineyard, which is a second generation, family-run vineyard in Gibbston, established by Doug Cox. His son Simon is now at the helm, producing single vineyard wines and his elegant Pinot Noir has perfumed aromas and subtle spice. This bespoke and tranquil lodge experience is wreathed in the authentic warmth of homely hospitality, where you soon feel like a treasured house guest, rather than a passing visitor. You’d struggle to find a better boutique retreat experience, in such a remarkable setting – the Valley of the Vines.  

Nestled at an elevation of 482 metres, you will never tire of the sense of space, the sweeping bucolic vistas across the undulations of the valley and gazing at the high peaks of the surrounding ranges. Then there are the starry starry nights. Gibbston Valley is part of the Kawarau Gibbston Dark Sky Park. Its remote location and minimal light pollution are pitch-perfect for gazing at the constellations. Mt Rosa Lodge offers exceptional astronomy packages led by local astronomer, Professor Brian Boyle. With a distinguished career spanning over 35 years, Brian directed Australia's two largest professional observatories and was a key member of the team responsible for the groundbreaking discovery of Dark Energy. Taking a journey through the cosmos above Gibbston with Brian is just another drawcard to Mt Rosa Lodge. www.mtrosalodge.co.nz

The night sky over Mt Rosa Lodge. Photo / Supplied

Mike Yardley is Newstalk ZB’s resident traveller and can be heard every week at 11.20am on Saturday Mornings with Jack Tame.