One of bonnie Scotland’s less trodden paths, yet most enthralling destinations, is a foray to the inner Hebrides and the Isle of Mull. From the rugged ridges of Ben More and wild moorland to the piercing white sand beaches and wave-lashed coastal cliffs, Mull is a nature lover’s haven. A natural untamed wilderness that is strikingly diverse and dramatic. Wildlife-watching expeditions are immensely popular, and my half day excursion served up close encounters with eagles, otters, dolphins and migrating whales.
Tobermory, the island’s main town, is a postcard-perfect fishing port and yachting hub, positively radiant with merrily coloured waterfront homes and shops. The houses were originally fishermen’s cottages, and many have been turned into B&Bs, pubs, restaurants and artist studios. Often lashed by frigid winds, if you need a warm-up, totter into the boutique Tobermory distillery, which has been producing single malt whisky since 1798.
The main ferry terminal is based in Craignure, where you’ll arrive from the mainland port of Oban. A short drive brings you to Torosay Castle. Recently sold to a mystery Swiss buyer, this rambling Scottish baronial mansion opens to the public on selected dates between April and October. There is a beautiful woodland walk through the castle grounds, bracketed with magnificent Italianate terraced gardens,extravagant classic statuary, sculpted fountains, a Japanese garden and rockery.
In 2008, the then oldest bottle of Veuve Clicquot was discovered by chance, inside a sideboard of the castle. The 1893 bottle was in mint condition. The “priceless” champagne is now on display at the Veuve Clicquot visitor centre in France. Just a few minutes south of Torosay is one of Scotland’s oldest inhabited castles, Duart Castle. Built in 1360, it is the home of the 28th Chief of the Clan Mclean and his family. Open to the public, the castle features majestic halls, medieval furnishings , authentic dungeons and cannons.
The place to stay is the Tobermory Hotel, housed in a series of multiple-storeyed, 300-year-old cottages that line the picturesque waterfront. It is seriously like staying in a doll’s house. The great value family-run B&B hotel serves a hearty Scottish breakfast and the evening dining is a showcase of local, fresh produce.
A short hop from Mull is the satellite Isle of Iona. This most historic of outposts was the staging ground for Saint Columba’s great conversion of the bonnie Scots to Christianity. Arriving here in 563AD from Ireland, he established a monastery on the island, which is also where the Book of Kells was transcribed, before being taken to Ireland, when the rampaging Vikings forced the monks to flee. The Caledonian Macbrayne car ferry service runs every two hours between Oban and the Isle of Mull. For full details on sailings, jump to www.calmac.co.uk
Oban, with its sturdy-stone buildings and photogenic waterfront is the gateway to the Isle of Mull. Crowning the hill directly above the centre of town is the colossal Victorian folly, McCaig’s Tower. Its construction was designed to provide work to the growing army of unemployed stonemasons. Inspired by the Coliseum in Rome, the tower is a polariser in the aesthetic pleasing stakes, but the adjoining viewing platforms offer brilliant views across Oban and beyond.
With more than a billion bottles of whisky exported annually, Scotland certainly isn’t short of distilleries, particularly in the Speyside region. For an insight into a smaller-scale operation, the boutique Oban Distillery has guided tours every hour. Five minutes north of Oban, add the medieval fortress of Dunstaffnage Castle to your sightseeing agenda. Built in 1260, it was captured by Robert the Bruce in 1309 during the Wars of Independence.
Adjacent to the imposing castle are the poignant ruins of the 13thcentury chapel, containing lots of Campbell tombs furnished with skull and crossbone carvings. The port town is awash with atmospheric bolt-hole pubs, but the pick of the bunch in my book is The Oban Inn. Boasting a vast range of single malt whiskies, superb pub food, the inn’s wood-panelled and stained-glass interior exudes Scottish character by the bucket-load. Just the haunt for a spot of haggis and mussels.
For an overnight stay in Oban, the grand old waterfront dame, the Oban Caledonian Hotel is an affordable choice. Built in 1882, and commandeered by the Royal Navy during WWII, the Oban Caledonian Hotel is a landmark property, commanding dreamy views across the water, and sunsets to die for.
Take your Radio, Podcasts and Music with you