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Mike Yardley: History’s parade in Boston

Author
Mike Yardley,
Publish Date
Wed, 15 Feb 2023, 5:48PM

Mike Yardley: History’s parade in Boston

Author
Mike Yardley,
Publish Date
Wed, 15 Feb 2023, 5:48PM

Mike Yardley: History’s parade in Boston.

The USA’s oldest city never forgets its past. Boston proudly wears its history on its sleeve. Just look at its trademark brownstone architecture as you jaunt down its craggy, cobblestone streets. In the downtown and waterfront, old mingles with new. Here’s my top picks on Boston’s essential experiences. A great starting point is the 4km-long Freedom Trail, following in the footsteps of the nation’s Founding Fathers and the birthplace of the American Revolution.

The Freedom Trail weaves past 16 of the city's most historic sites, including Faneuil Hall Marketplace, the Paul Revere House and Old North Church. A true gem is the Old State House, the scene of the Boston Massacre of 1770, where British soldiers fired into a group of Bostonians. This balcony was the scene of happier times on 18 July 1776, when Colonel Thomas Crafts read out the Declaration of Independence to the public for the first time.

(Credit: Mike Yardley)

Four buildings – Faneuil Hall, Quincy Market, North Market and South Market – constitute Faneuil Hall Marketplace, with the oldest being Faneuil Hall. Built in 1742, Samuel Adams once stood here to push for resistance against the British. In fact, this is where colonists famously challenged the Stamp Act of 1764 by proclaiming, "no taxation without representation." From those illustrious days, the marketplace has expanded to include more than 100 shops and restaurants. Yes, it’s a bit of a tourist trap, but also a great pit-stop to get your fill of lobster rolls and clam chowder.

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The start/finish point of the trail is gorgeous Boston Common, which was originally a cow paddock in the mid-1600s. It was also used for Puritan punishments, like whipping, and even for hangings. In 1768, the area was transformed into a British camp. After the Revolutionary War, the park became a popular locale for public speeches and rallies. Now, the Common is best known because of its status as the oldest public park in the country- the lungs of Boston. Directly across the road, the golden-domed Massachusetts State House gilds proceedings. The land it sits on was originally used as John Hancock’s cow pasture. Completed in 1798, a copper dome was installed by Paul Revere shortly afterwards, before being covered in gold. Nowadays, senators, state representatives and the governor conduct the Commonwealth's business here.

A short walk from here brings you to Beacon Hill, Boston's most revered neighbourhood, where you’ll want to linger and immerse yourself in its characterful beauty. It’s an insta-hit, awash with quaint, cobblestone-lined alleyways, corners dotted with gas street lamps, stately townhouses affixed with bay view windows and blazing displays of flower-filled window boxes. It's Beacon Hill's incredible style, a stunning mix of Federal and Greek revival architecture, that make this neighbourhood a stellar experience.

(Credit: Mike Yardley)

Picturesque Louisburg Square and Acorn Street are the crowd favourites, while a stroll down Charles Street, leads you to a sweep of appealing restaurants, shops and bars. If you’re a fan of the TV show "Cheers," make tracks for Beacon Street to find the bar that inspired the programme. Originally founded as the Bull and Finch Bar, the building’s exterior is instantly recognisable, while the bar itself has lustily embraced the whole Cheers theme, catering to the show’s global devotees. Cheers!

(Credit: Mike Yardley)

Home to the Boston Red Sox, Fenway Park has been the site of home runs, stolen bases and grounders for 110 years. I loved admiring the ballpark's original architecture, the 37 foot-tall Green Monster wall, and the venue’s distinctive paint-job, officially known as Fenway Green. If you’re planning on making a pilgrimage during baseball season (April to early October), book your tickets at least a few weeks in advance.

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You’ll definitely want to take a stroll through North End, Boston's Little Italy. While Italians weren't the first to settle in this area, their cultural influence on the North End has withstood the test of time. Today, you'll find all kinds of Italian food from classic pizza pies served at the popular Regina Pizzeria to Sicilian-style seafood, such as black linguine and calamari meatballs at The Daily Catch. And be sure to pick up a cannoli at Mike's Pastry. The North End is also home to Neptune Oyster, a brasserie-style raw bar with a red hot reputation for its perfectly shucked oysters and lobster rolls. Neptune’s Johnnycake, a cornmeal pancake with smoked bluefish, honey butter and a dollop of sturgeon caviar is pure decadence.

(Credit: Mike Yardley)

Boston brims with cool outdoor spaces, but the Rose Fitzgerald Kennedy Greenway is a 2km-long sequence of parks and gardens, built on top of a former highway. It was part of Boston’s “Big Dig” project which undergrounded the city centre’s highways. The 1992 budget was set at $2.2 billion, but by 2007 when the project was completed, the price-tag was ten times that. Ouch! Since opening in 2008, visitors have flocked to this sprawling green space to enjoy temporary public art displays, bubbling fountains, numerous food vendors and a carousel. The Rose Fitzgerald Kennedy Greenway is anchored by Haymarket Square in the North End and Kneeland Street in Chinatown.

From there, I ventured to the waterfront, to sample the spoil of offerings. Central to the city’s backstory, the Boston Tea Party Ship Museum offers an entertaining look at one of Boston's pivotal moments. You can toss (fake) tea overboard, climb around replica ships and converse with period actors about colonial issues. Exhibits at the museum, which is located on Griffin's Wharf (close to where the actual Tea Party occurred on Dec. 16, 1773) include 3D holograms, talking portraits and the Robinson Tea Chest, an authentic tea chest from the Boston Tea Party. Two of the three ships have been recreated, the Beaver and the Eleanor, which are fun to explore. The film "Let It Begin Here" depicts the events that immediately preceded the American Revolution. You can also grab a cup of tea or a snack in Abigail's Tea Room, which has one of the best harbour views.

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Further around the waterfront I made my way to the Charlestown Navy Yard. Don’t miss the chance to board the USS Constitution. This historic vessel is the world's oldest commissioned warship still operational today. Fondly nicknamed Old Ironsides, she is helmed by United States Navy sailors, who also serve as the ship's guides. The ship's accompanying museums displays nearly 2,000 artifacts related to the ship's history. Launched in 1797, this triple-masted wooden-hulled heavy frigate has notched up numerous victories. Crisscrossing the globe, this three-masted frigate participated in the Barbary War off the coast of North Africa and sailed the Caribbean in search of pirates. She earned her nickname, Old Ironsides, during the War of 1812 against Britain, when enemy cannonballs bounced off her resilient wooden hull. She still sails once a year on Independence Day, to retain her naval rating.

Heading up from the shipyard, I gave myself workout to reach the Bunker Hill Monument. The first major battle of the American Revolution took place here in June 1775. The British won this opening battle but fared worse than their American foes, with nearly 1200 British troops losing their lives. Construction of the monument was completed in 1842, a 221-foot granite obelisk offering fabulous views from its observatory. You’ll have to work for it - climbing 294 steps to the top.

(Photo Credit: Mike Yardley)

You’ll definitely want to take to the water on a Boston Harbor Cruise, where I gleaned so many remarkable insights about Boston’s make-up and sense of place. The cruise departs from history-rich Long Wharf, where the British arrived and departed from, after founding the city in 1630. I also learnt that 75% of the city sits atop man-made land, and Boston’s wastewater plant produces fertiliser which is used on the orange groves of Florida. My perky skipper also drew our attention to the clock tower on Customs House.

The locals call it the “four-faced liar”, because the winds are so strong at times, it wildly moves the clocks hands, rendering its reliability as a timepiece as useless. Captivating experiences like the Harbor Cruise and visiting New England Aquarium are best purchased with a Boston CityPASS, the bumper budget-saving pass that encompasses a range of Boston’s best paid attractions, with steeply discounted admission prices, via CityPASS. Buy a CityPASS and you’ve got the keys to the city. Spend less and experience more with one simple, convenient purchase. www.citypass.com

At Central Wharf, the wonderful New England Aquarium is a must, particularly if you have kids in tow. Inside, you'll find thousands of marine critters to study, and at the centrepiece: the Giant Ocean Tank. This four-story tank includes a coral reef habitat that houses more than 1,000 underwater creatures including green sea turtles, eels and barracuda. In other parts of the aquarium, you'll find exhibits dedicated to penguins, sea jellies and sea dragons, plus a six-storey high projection movie screen with digital surround sound. The penguin feeding session is hilarious fun as the African penguins frenetically frolic about the rocks. I never realised that penguins are only naturally found in the Southern hemisphere. And be sure to give Myrtle the turtle a wave, a gracious 90 year old green sea turtle in the Giant Ocean Tank. www.visittheusa.com.au

(Photo credit: Mike Yardley)

Where to stay? Boston Harbor’s sublime 60 foot archway, dressed with a ginormous American flag, heralds quite the welcome to Boston Harbor Hotel. Perfectly poised on the harbourfront, with a celebratory maritime theme, this divine property and its wonderfully convivial staff is destined to deliver you a memorable stay. The hotel capitalises on its privileged vantage point on historic Rowes Wharf, with sweeping views across the harbour, whether you’re enjoying the on-site dining at Rowes Wharf Sea Grille or indulging in the restful comforts of your guestroom. All of the hotel’s 232 rooms and suites are elegantly designed and decorated, with lush fabrics, Frette linens, rich woods, discerning coastal colour tones and dreamy views. Contemporary comforts run the gamut from Smart TVs and complimentary wi-fi to in-room tablets, Diptyque bathroom amenities and rainfall showers. Rest your head in this sparkling hotel for an irresistible taste of Boston. www.bostonharborhotel.com

(Photo credit: Mike Yardley)

Fly to Boston from Auckland with Hawaiian Airlines, via Honolulu. Flights depart Auckland three times weekly on Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday and Hawaiian Airlines connects to 15 US mainland cities. Treat yourself to Extra Comfort, which is very reasonably priced. Hawaiian Airlines’ Extra Comfort seats on the Airbus A330 offer considerably more legroom, priority services and enhanced amenities to make your long-haul travel experience decidedly more comfortable. www.hawaiianairlines.com

Mike Yardley is our resident traveller on Jack Tame Saturday Mornings.

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