
A 3.30am alarm clock is a rude awakening no matter where you are in the world, but I duly snapped to attention with a frisson of excitement as I was blasted awake at the Radisson Hotel in Kathmandu. I had a hot date with the roof of the world, communing with the Himalayan Ranges, as the sun popped its head up to greet the new day. There are numerous ways to marvel over Nepal’s majestic mountains – and you don’t necessarily need to break out in a sweat.
I had no intention of emulating Sir Edmund Hillary, so scaling Base Camp let alone Everest, was not on the agenda. Many tourists take to the air with a spot of flight-seeing to gaze down on the world’s tallest mountain, but Nepal’s safety record with these small sightseeing planes is not flash. Another option is to head west out of Kathmandu and climb aboard the Chandragiri Hills cable car. The ride is about 10 minutes, offering expansive views of Kathmandu Valley and Himalayas, from the summit.
But after perusing the 'Attractions' tab on Booking.com, my sister and I opted for a sunrise hike in Nagarkot, expertly guided by Kathmandu local Srinath. Located 32 kilometres east of Kathmandu, it was a one-hour drive on narrow, gnarly hillside roads to reach the mountain town of Nagarkot, at an altitude of over 2000 metres on the Kathmandu Valley Rim. Historically, Nagarkot was a place for the royals of Nepal to escape the scorching heat of summer and a hectic city life. It still serves as a tractor-beam for locals and visitors alike, to surrender to nature, slow-down, detox, meditate, take yoga classes, and embrace its ravishing elemental appeal.
Our first assignment was to head to the Nagarkot Lookout Tower, resting on a ridge at 2170 metres above sea level. As the first shafts of daylight emerged, the panoramic viewpoint served up the sight of row upon row of corrugated ranges. There are eight visible mountain ranges from this spot, including Langtang, Annapurna and the Himalayan Range. Piercing the western horizon is Dhaulagiri with Mount Everest rising the east, while the magnificent Kanchenjunga, the third highest mountain in the world, is also visible.
The weather gods were not playing ball, casting the skyline in a roving blanket of thick cloud, so glimpsing Everest in a golden hue at sunrise was thwarted. But every now and then, the cloud layer would part to offer a tantalising glimpse of the tallest peaks, separating Nepal from Tibet. If you want to maximise your chances of savouring a clear sky for sunrise, November to January are the clearest months.
But aside from the mountain magic, the Nagarkot lookout is a sublime vantage point to survey the surrounding hill country. It’s an ethereal, forested space giving way to undulating fertile countryside, where villagers and farmers lead a traditional way of life as if time has stood still. Best of all, the region is richly laced in hiking trails, whether you’re after a short and sweet hike or multi-day affair. After enjoying a nutritious
breakfast in Nagarkot town, a mountain retreat haven, Srinath led us on to one of Nagarkot’s nature trails. Striking out on this well-formed path, you soon realise what a spectacularly bucolic escape-hatch this region is, from the city bustle of Kathmandu.
The 9km downhill hike served up a scenic medley of encounters and viewpoints, from greeting friendly villagers tending to their corn plantations and rice paddies, to communing with locals herding their sprightly goats. We stopped to greet a charming villager standing over a clay pot making rakshi – a distilled alcoholic spirit made with fermented grain. But it’s the mouth-watering views that constantly had me catching my breath and reaching for my camera, from flower-covered meadows to striking rock formations. Thickly vegetated hills, lush green valleys, authentic rustic villages, and endearing hospitality permeate proceedings.
After passing through pine forest, beautiful villages and terraced hillsides, Srinath led us to Buddha Peace Park. The park has a huge statue of the golden Buddha in the ‘Bhumisparsha Mudra’ posture and is surrounded by manicured gardens. It is a resolute haven of calm. We then headed further down the hillside, passing a group of young army recruits out exercising, to reach a gob-smacking attraction. Rani Jhula, also called Nagarkot Hanging Bridge, is a thrilling suspension bridge that spans 250 metres over the lush greenery of the pine forest below, slashing by a rushing river. Rest assured, the steel cables are anchored firmly into the ground to enhance stability and safety.
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Just three years old, what makes Rani Jhula special is that it combines the spirit of adventure with the feeling of calmness. This is not just a bridge; it is a legend. The people of the area claim that at the break of the day, when the first light falls on the bridge, it sings a tune that resonates in the pines. Mystique and tradition is stitched deeply into this area, with all its winding paths and enchanting vistas. You cannot help but feel fully endowed with an overwhelming sense of calmness after encountering the beauty of Nagarkot.

Where to stay? After an absorbing day roaming the hill country in Nagarkot, it was such a therapeutic balm to return to the Radisson Hotel Kathmandu, which beckons as a red-hued oasis of calm and comfort, perfectly positioned by the tourist district in Kathmandu. The hotel embodies the graceful warmth and obliging hospitality that seems to be steeped in the DNA of Nepalese people. The hotel kindly arranged a complimentary transfer to and from the airport, eliminating the post and pre-flight faff, without any fuss. Boasting over 250 rooms and suites, it’s easy to see why this charismatic hotel is such a hit with business and leisure travellers, alike.
Accommodations are well-appointed, spaciously sized and fully equipped with air-con, flat-screen TV, free Wi-Fi, coffee and tea facilities, complimentary toiletries, minibar, and a dedicated workspace. Wellness whims are generously catered for, from the Tranquillity Spa to the top-notch fitness centre and sparkling outdoor pool on the fifth
floor. This was a regular haunt for me, whether it was to take a cooling dip or drink in the sparkling city panorama, where Kathmandu titillates the eyeballs with its cheerfully-coloured apartment buildings, stretching across the city. Best of all, the in-house dining.
We enjoyed lavish buffet breakfasts at The Fun Café, showcasing a tantalising array of Western comfort food and authentic Nepali cuisine. Great coffee, too! Alongside that dreamy pool, more panoramic views await at the hotel rooftop’s Terrace Garden, offering a selection of light meals, snacks, and refreshments. It’s a great perch for sundowners and to run your eyes over the twinkling city lights deep into the night. Hotel staff could not have been more charming or obliging. It’s a winning roost in the heart of the city.
I locked in my Kathmandu getaway with Booking.com, tapping into their one-stop-shop travel offering, which enables you to sort flights, accommodation, attractions and car hire, all on the one site. Sign up to their Genius loyalty programme for discounts and travel rewards, on the mobile app or website. www.booking.com
From New Zealand, it’s just a one-stop connection to Kathmandu with Singapore Airlines, on their daily services from Auckland and Christchurch, with well-timed connections from Changi Airport, the gateway to Asia, onwards to Kathmandu. Across all classes of travel, the award-winning carrier has not only fostered a world-beating reputation for its exceptional customer service and in-flight product, but also its innovation. Become a KrisFlyer member and enjoy complimentary in-flight WiFi. For best fares and seats to suit head to www.singaporeair.com
Mike Yardley is our resident traveller on Jack Tame Saturday Mornings.
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