There’s an unmistakeable spring in the step on the streets and laneways of Hamilton. Waikato’s powerhouse city boasts a growing arsenal of headline sights and experiences, spanning outdoorsy delights, a cranking hospitality scene and cultural riches. The annual Hamilton Arts Festival bursts into life this weekend, with a spree of spectacles being staged across the city. Adding to its artsy credentials, and sparked by the closure of Founders Theatre, the city’s grand stage is back with the opening of BNZ Theatre Hamilton in late January. The 1300-seat auditorium across three levels is quite the head-turner, taking pride of place on Victoria Street, wrapped in the century-old façade of the Hamilton Hotel. The $80m state-of-the-art performance space has been worth the wait and there’s some striking design touches. The wooden panelling inside the auditorium represents the curvature of the Waikato River.  

The theatre is the latest addition to the thriving arts hub in Victoria St. Right next door is the beloved Riff Raff statue in Riff Raff Square. Pop into ArtsPost Galleries and Shop, housed in the former Post Office, which fosters local artists, craftspeople and jewellers by exhibiting their work, which you can duly buy. Adjacent to ArtsPost, the treasure-chest of local taonga and touring exhibitions, Waikato Museum. It is a truly sublime regional museum sharing compelling insights into the history and culture of the region, with a strong accent on Tainui heritage.  

Right outside the museum, I stopped to marvel over Michael Parekowhai’s three-storey sculpture, Tongue of the Dog, which was inspired by the legend about the creation of the Waikato River. Celebrating its tenth anniversary this year, it is a tale of a servant dog who cuts a pathway for the healing waters of Mt. Tongariro to reach an ailing Mt. Taupiri. The sculpture's waterfall represents the tongue of the dog.  

Tongue of the Dog. Photo / WaikatoNZ.com

But if you really want to stuff your eyes with wonder, nothing beats the exceptional sights, botanical whimsy and visual splendour of Hamilton Gardens. No matter where you sited this dreamy collection of enclosed gardens, whether it be London or Los Angeles, it would be a box-office blockbuster, bursting forth as a culturally themed architectural triumph. It’s deliciously ironic to think this iconic beauty was once the site of the city’s rubbish dump. This is no bog-standard botanical garden, but an ever-evolving, time-travelling development centred on the relationship between people, their gardens and major eras in human civilisation. The mastermind behind the concept was Peter Sergel, who retired as director five years ago after cultivating his grand vision over the past 40 years.  

But his masterplan for 30 themed gardens firmly remains on the long-term books. With 18 uniquely themed gardens currently on offer, the tour de force in my opinion, are the Paradise Collection gardens spanning many centuries and civilisations. I had previously ventured around the showpiece gardens, but on my latest visit the experience was immeasurably enhanced by taking a guided tour. It’s remarkable how much you will miss, from the subtle details and hidden secrets to the ingenious thinking anchoring many of the gardens, without the guiding hand of a passionate expert. They are all windows in time, loaded with magic. 

The highlights are the luscious Italian Renaissance, the symmetrical beauty of the Indian Char Bagh, the tranquillity of the Chinese and Japanese Gardens and the Ancient Egyptian Garden, which opened in 2022. As my guide remarked, the latter is the only meticulously re-created garden of its kind outside of Egypt. Travel 4000 years back in time to this sublime sanctuary of stone, water and colour, gazing over hieroglyphics that tell stories of kings and gods. Sit in the shade of the pergola among the garden’s sacred plants. Papyrus grows in the gorgeous lily pond. Ancient Egyptians would come to a temple like this to ensure the gods granted their soul safe passage through the underworld into the promise of the afterlife.  

Hamilton Gardens. Photo / Supplied

I’m also in awe of the Char Bagh Garden which beckons like a giant Persian carpet, ablaze in the vibrant colourful blooms of 4000 plants. My guide mentioned that the gardens are changed out three times a year, so 12,000 plants annually! Inspired by the four gardens of paradise described in Islam’s holy book, the Quran, the design recreates the Mughal Empire’s grand gardens of northern India. As you’d expect, the Italian Renaissance Garden is a vision of splendour, with romantic statues, classic architectural features, geometric shapes and raised terraces.  

You’ll notice the enormous terracotta pots are planted with trees, groaning with Seville oranges. My guide chuckled that some visitors help themselves to the fruit, take a bite out of it and discard the orange on the path. Heathens! Hamilton Gardens actually turns many of the oranges into their own marmalade, available from the beautifully curated selection of giftware in the visitor centre. 

Meanwhile, the movie-set good looks of the Tudor Garden are a real treat within the Fantasy Collection, complete with intricate knot hedging and green and white poles crowned with mythical creatures like dragons, centaurs and unicorns. Oliver Cromwell’s Roundheads destroyed many of the world’s original Tudor Gardens, with neglect ruining those that remained. Alongside Hamilton Gardens, the only other known reconstruction is at London’s Hampton Court Palace. The latest edition to the Fantasy Collection is the Surrealist Garden, which is utterly imagination-stirring.  

Clad in giant animatronic trees, which were swiftly nicknamed “the trons”, there’s a distinct sense of Alice in Wonderland wackiness in this wondrous garden to warp your senses. Another heart-stealer is the impeccably designed Mansfield Garden, as if the “The Garden Party” short story has blown off the pages of the book and vivid real-life detail. 

Never one to rest on their laurels, there are more grand designs in the works at Hamilton Gardens. I was given a sneak peek of the next cab off the rank, the Medieval Garden. Set to open in a couple of months, you will feel transported the cloistered courtyards of the Middle Ages, half expecting monks to pass by, deep in prayer and contemplation. Based on a Sicilian monastery, the cloistered courtyard includes an Apothecary’s Garden, which supported the healing of the sick in a monastic hospital. It is drop-dead gorgeous.  

After binging on so much botanical splendour, I was certainly peckish. A short hop from the gardens is the Hamilton East hot spot of Grey St, a bustling “eat street” of temptations. In the heart of the action, head straight to Made Market, an alluring emporium of food vendors, creators, retailers and artisans. Just two years old, there’s a polished industrial vibe to the transformed mid-century building, which was previously home to the Waikato Regional Council. This multi-storey venue includes balconies that serve up sweeping river views.  

Made Market. Photo / Mike Yardley

The range of food vendors will please all palates, reaching deep into the world’s cuisines. Wellness focused? Soul Bowl will tick your boxes. For delicious sourdough breads and pastries, head straight to Volare. I also loved Pasta Paradiso. Sink your teeth into their divine panzerotto and profiteroles. Grey Street is also home to a Duck Island’s flagship parlour, a Waikato hero for ten years, creating delicious flavours steeped in seasonality and powered by local produce. Best scoop? White chocolate, pomegranate and macadamia.  

While in town, hit the pedals on the Te Awa River Ride. Spanning 65km in length, tracing the mighty Waikato River, it is the longest concrete trail in New Zealand, wrapped in nature. From Hamilton Gardens, I struck out on the Hamilton to Cambridge section of the trail. 22km long, the picturesque route is packed with variety, passing through lush forests, native bat colonies, traversing gullies, zipping across bridges and elevated boardwalks. The regular river views ramp up its soulful, blissed-out appeal – as does doing it on a $7000 e-Bike. The awesome team at Riverside Adventures will get you sorted with bike hire (e-Bikes and hardtail mountain bikes) and a shuttle service, so that you can cycle the section of your choice, one-way.  

Mike on his e-bike. Photo / Mike Yardley 

En-route to Cambridge, treat yourself to a layover at Punnet Eatery, a beloved community gathering spot in Tamahere, with its cosy farmhouse feels. This thriving eatery began life as a strawberry farm, but has rapidly diversified into an all-encompassing hub, offering rustic fine-dining, casual cabinet food, chic giftware, and a stirring selection of made-on-site goodies, from take-home frozen meals to sweet treats. Their peanut brittle is legendary!  

I rocked my way around the Waikato in a trusty hybrid Toyota Rav4, courtesy of Ezi Car Rental. I thoroughly enjoyed the Ezi experience, where excellent vehicles, super sharp prices and fast & friendly service are all part of the package. Ezi Car Rental operates an extensive network from 24 branches across the country, including Hamilton Airport. They’re everywhere you want to be with vehicles to suit your specific needs.

The magic certainly runs deep in the mighty Waikato. For more touring tips and insights, head to the region’s official visitor website. 

Mike Yardley is Newstalk ZB’s resident traveller and can be heard every week on Jack Tame Saturday Mornings.