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Mike Yardley: Gorging on Wellington

Author
Mike Yardley,
Publish Date
Sat, 18 Mar 2023, 5:37PM
Credit Wellingtonnz
Credit Wellingtonnz

Mike Yardley: Gorging on Wellington

Author
Mike Yardley,
Publish Date
Sat, 18 Mar 2023, 5:37PM

No matter how often you visit the Capital, one of life’s abiding truths is that Wellington is a gorge-fest. My latest swing through this whirring web of a city soon morphed into an urban food safari, plunging deep into Wellington’s treasury of culinary temptations. Here’s my hit -list of stirring spots for great eats and libations. For breakfast worth waking up for, don’t miss La Cloche on The Terrace. This unmistakably French café and patisserie unfurls its daily splendour from 7am, whether you’re hankering an oven-fresh croissant, Pain au chocolat, Croque Monsieur or maybe something more extravagant, like a hearty slice of Opera Cake. La Cloche boasts one of best drool-worthy cabinets in town.

Destination dining? Make your way to the Beehive to enjoy lunch or dinner at Bellamys by Logan Brown. I cannot think of any other parliament in the world which has opened its doors for public dining, within the halls of power. Previously reserved for exclusive use by our parliamentary representatives, Bellamys is now open to all, on the third floor of the Beehive. It’s the only restaurant I’ve been to, where security screening is part of the deal. As you’d expect from Logan Brown, the culinary offering at Bellamys is supreme. Lunch is a light, flavourful and nutritious affair. I opted for the Confit Market Fish which was accompanied with miso butter, potato foam, spring onion and lemon gel. Feeling indulgent, I reserved some stomach space for a Madeleine Sponge dessert, adorned with cream fraiche, rhubarb, opalines tuile and drizzled in a strawberry and elderflower sorbet. Quite the vote-winner.

A Lambton Quay beacon, for breakfast, lunch and dinner is the Midland Park institution of Astoria. Open from 8am to late, Monday to Friday, this convivial foodie institution was given a major refresh last year. Pop by the coffee hole in the wall or enjoy sharply-priced aperitivo cocktails, in the chic and laidback interior. Their contemporary Italian fare is fresh and bursting with flavour. Pizza and pasta command proceedings and their house-made pasta is “thumped, stretched, rolled and extruded – with no harm done.” Pizzetta is crafted from a sour dough base in a local durum flour. I plumped for a Margherita Pizzetta topped with provolone, fior de latte and basil. Add to that a lovely zucchini salad, with peas, mint and parmesan. Delicioso!

Heading over to Victoria St, Kuikui Lane is the latest bar to open in the neighbourhood, inspired by the Kuia/nans of the world; past and present. Within this snug, inviting and relaxed spot, manaakitanga flows freely, with a Māori design influence woven throughout the venue. The wall mural is spectacular. Under the helm of Jess and Ronan, this homely bar may well be the only bar in in the nation that only sells New Zealand sourced products. That doesn’t just pertain to the kai, but the beer, wine and full cocktail list.

It’s such a charismatic venue to enjoy end of day drinks, while noshing from the lovely sharing boards and snacks menu, that features locally sourced goodies like Māori flatbread parāoa pohema and kumara chips. The cocktail menu is particularly head-turning, with inventive libations like the Wellington Wash. (My firm favourite.) This sublime concoction of Black Collar Golden Rum, Boysenberry Liqueur, Pineapple Juice and Lime is milk washed. This 17th century technique curdles and filters the mix over time to create a creamy texture with sharp clarity. Kuikui Lane is a revelation and a welcome addition to Wellington’s hospitality arsenal.

Another recent arrival that is creating a lot of buzz is just a few blocks down from Kuikui Lane, on Ghuznee St. Humdinger is the latest creation from a trio of the capital’s hospo stars; Sean Golding, Shepherd Elliot and Hannah Wells. This cocktail-centric dive bar is drenched in red. The lighting, floors and seats are dark red, offset with wooden wall panelling and booths.

The heavy metal Americana vibe is to the fore, from skulls plastered on most surfaces to the jukebox’s curated music list. There are more than 15 distinctive cocktails on the menu, from which I whistled up a Margarita Thatcher. Just like the classic, it’s a blend of tequila, triple sec and lime juice, but a nip of blue curacao turns it Tory blue. Cheers.

Golding and Elliot are also the brains behind Concord, which opened less than a year ago, taking over from the legendary venue, The Lido, which previously operated on the site. Concord’s concept pays homage to the Art Nouveau-style Racing Conference building and the glitzy heyday of the Concorde jet. Inspired by European bistros and New York steakhouses of the 20th century, the theatrical colour palette is a mix of reds and oranges and punches of gold, with retro carpet, lots of velvet and tasselled light shades. The jet blue and red mood lighting adds a sexy touch at night. Treat yourself to Concord’s seasonal cooking, a curated wine list and exceptional hospitality. It is not formal or fussy, but casually stylish. Expect sophisticated spins on bistro classics, from the fabulous Shrimp Cocktail to their wildly popular Cheeseburger Royale.

There’s always something cooking on Cuba St and a crowd-favourite to add to your food safari is Ombra. Styled on an informal back-street Venetian bacaro, the intimate, old-school romanticism instantly impresses, from the period curtained windows to the shelves stacked with Campari bottles. Nearly 50 small dishes are featured on the menu, like Baccala Mantecato (whipped salted cod on crusty bread.) Don’t miss the slow-cooked duck risotto with mascarpone.

Finally, for a heady dip with authentic Middle Eastern cuisine, Damascus restaurant on Tory Street is a delight. Just a couple blocks back from Courtenay Place, husband and wife duo Hasan and Flora are at the helm of Damascus, specialising in authentic Syrian food, faithfully informed by Hasan's family recipes. Open for lunch and dinner, this family-friendly venue has a casual, welcoming atmosphere and vibrant décor. I headed straight to the Grill menu, heartily feasting on Shish Tawook, which consisted of grilled chicken topped with yoghurt, chilli, Damascus spices and garlic sauce. Boom! Find room for dessert and surrender to a Halwa Mousse. (Halwa is a thick, buttery paste with saffron, rosewater and cocoa powder.) The mousse blends that with coconut cream, boysenberries, sesame cookie, pistachio, sumac and flake salt.

Treat yourself to a wild and energising getaway in the Wellington region. Make your first port of call the official website, jam-packed with constantly updated trip inspiration. www.wellingtonnz.com

Fly to Wellington with Jetstar, the low fares leader. Not everyone needs to travel with checked luggage, in-flight meals or an assigned window seat. By giving you the choice to only pay for the things you want, Jetstar keeps its base fares as low as possible. Jetstar’s Price Guarantee means they’ll beat any cheaper flight you find online by 10%. For best fares and products to suit, head to www.jetstar.com

I romped my way around Wellington in a trusty Toyota RAV4, courtesy of Ezi Car Rental. Kiwi owned and operated, the Ezi experience encompasses excellent vehicle choice, stringent cleaning practices, super sharp prices, and fast & friendly service. Ezi Car Rental operates an extensive network from 25 locations across the country. Head to www.ezicarrental.co.nz

Mike Yardley is our resident traveller on Jack Tame Saturday Mornings.

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