Summer’s extreme heat wave was in full force when I arrived in Perth, embracing me with a welcome that was akin to be slapped me in the face with a hot spatula. Eager for ocean breeze respite, I summoned the doctor, hot-footing it south to the conjoined city of Fremantle, or Freo, as it’s affectionately known. That afternoon sou’wester, the Fremantle Doctor, really is a sanity-saver to millions in the height of summer. Like Perth, regeneration is all the rage in Freo, with an ever-expanding hospitality and arty scene to bolster its bohemian credentials.

After a caffeine-refuel on South Terrace’s famed “cappuccino strip” (primarily influenced by Italian migrants), I was eager to scratch beneath the surface of Freo’s boho spirit. Enter Ryan, a born and bred local who eight years ago founded the award-winning business, Two Feet & a Heartbeat Walking Tours. Whether it’s history, culture or the hottest foodie spots you’re after, Ryan and his crew are the go-to insiders, plugged into Freo’s eclectic pulse like walking Wikipedians. 

Ryan whisked our group around the heritage trail’s premium draws, from the World Heritage-listed limestone fortress of Fremantle Prison (circa 1850s) to the sublime preservation sweep of colonial architecture flanking High Street, Western Australia’s oldest street. It’s a triumphant streetscape of heritage buildings with ornate iron railings, now home to independent retailers, fashion designers, artists and hospo spots. Ryan remarked the charming little Buffalo Club has the cheapest booze in own. Enjoy a thirst-quencher and the spirited post-work ambience of the National Hotel, a grand old watering hole that has recently been revived after falling victim to multiple fires.

Throughout the city, the ongoing passion for heritage preservation is infectious and inescapable. Even disused department stores have been creatively born again, as you will find in Kings Square, home to MANY, Australia’s largest temporary space activation project. Repurposed as a thriving hub for cutting-edge retail, MANY is like a hothouse of pop-up stores, showcasing edgy retail, fledgling artists, craftspeople and fashion designers. Call it what you want: freeform, experiential, boho chic….it’s quintessentially Fremantle.

Recent changes to liquor laws has led to the proliferation of the small bar scene; intimate, speak-easies now speckling Fremantle. One of the newest specimens is Strange Company, fast cultivating a loyal following with its expansive selection of beers, ciders and wine, matched with a lip-smacking share style tapas menu.  They’re very big into repurposing and existing spaces in Freo. That great bastion of craft beer, Little Creatures , led the charge twenty years ago, converting a massive shed on Fishing Boat Harbour into a brewery, bar and restaurant. Its popularity powers on.

Also on the waterfront, our group popped into Kidogo Arthouse, a gloriously restored limestone warehouse, which is home to an independent art centre and exhibition space. The aboriginal works on display here, which can be purchased, are sensational. Founded by the vivacious Joanna Robertson, she led me into her private saloon, the Kelp Bar, stuffed with paraphernalia and curios, With an unblemished ocean view across the boardwalk at Bathers Beach, it’s a dreamy spot for a sundowner. Feeling peckish? Stroll over to the brand-spanking new venue, Bathers Beach House, a fiendishly popular diner specialising in seafood and share plates. Order up a salivating platter, stacked with whole reef fish, mussels, octopus, oysters and garlic prawns, wash it down with an Eagle Bay ale, grab a spot under an umbrella and watch the sun sink into the Indian Ocean, leaving in its wake a streaky crimson trail.

I also deployed Ryan’s stellar insights, taking a guided walking tour around central Perth, to stake out the best hidden finds and innovations.  In recent years, liquor licensing changes have spawned nearly 100 small bars, setting up trade and breathing life into derelict heritage buildings and dishevelled alleys. Tucked within a welter of laneways and regenerated structures, Perth is ripe for urban exploration, as you graze from the explosion of funky bars and swanky eateries.

Here’s a few personal stand-outs. Jamie Oliver has made a grand entrance into the 140 Precinct, which is also where you’ll find the fabulous Cocina Bandito, feted for its Cuban sandwiches and mojito-inspired mixology. Another enticing 140 option is the Globe, which has re-energised the original landmark hotel. The Globe Bar features a vertical garden, heritage brick wall, timber floorboards and a wall mural of the second connecting to the 140 street art inside. It’s a trendy spot for casual bites and drinks, with 25 beers on tap. The Globe Eatery is all about experimental cocktails and boutique bites, housed in an old hardware store, where the design encompasses a strong industrial feel softened by recycled timber boards and cosy leather seating. 

In Queen Street, I loved The Flour Factory, fusing together a New York Deli with a Spanish Bodega cocktail bar across three levels of a former 100-year old flour mill. With over 150 types of gin on offer, if you’re feeling indecisive, just spin the gin wheel to place your order. Other shining lights of urban laneway regeneration that must be explored include the trail-blazing Wolf Lane (with its wondrously large murals), the just completed Brookfield Place behind St. George’s Tce, bursting with swish culinary offerings, and the hidden gem of Howard Lane. After ripping up the asphalt, the lane’s original cobblestones were delightfully rediscovered. It’s also where you can enjoy the ultimate example of a signage-free speakeasy, Helvetica Bar, housed in a small brick storehouse, brimming with character and whiskies. The locals love it because they offer a bottle-keep service, whereby you can resume your intake from the same bottle on return visits to the bar.

Finally, if you’re heading to Perth’s Sunset Coast for an ocean dip, head to City Beach to check out the spectacular new beachfront venue, Odyssea Beach Cafe. The beachfront restaurant’s elevated deck is a primo location, with an embracing, laidback vibe and sophisticated beachside fare. Fabio, the charismatic owner, took great pride in telling me that his menu is deliberately priced at 15% cheaper than all other beachside eateries. Salute the sun-bleached sands with a bowl of his divine tagliatelle pasta and prawns.

Air New Zealand offers non-stop flights to Western Australia, with daily, year-round services on the Dreamliner from Auckland, and a seasonal summer service from Christchurch until the end of April.