Confession time – I am a hardcore, incurable fanatic of Father Ted.
The hit comedy show, which first burst onto our TV screens nearly twenty years ago, continues to attract legions of freshly converted followers, thanks to the power of re-runs and DVD boxed set sales. (It is currently screening again on the Comedy Channel).
The show followed the lives of Father Ted Crilly (the late Dermot Morgan) and his fellow priests, Father Dougal McGuire and Father Jack Hackett, who are exiled on the island, living together in the parochial house with the fourth main character, housekeeper Mrs. Doyle. The series was responsible for propelling a number of other actors and comedians into the limelight, notably, the hyper-energetic Graham Norton.
Loosely set on the rugged Aran Islands, that are located just west of Ireland’s Galway Bay, I took the opportunity on my last visit to Emerald Isle, to walk in the footsteps of the famous TV show.Â
First stop, the Aran Islands. Rugged, gnarly and wind-blasted, this trio of rocky islands, on the western fringes of the Atlantic Ocean, have been standing guard over Galway Bay for centuries. Father Ted is set on Craggy Island, a fictional name for Inis Oirr (Inisheer), which is the closest of the three islands to the Irish mainland. Home to a population of just 300, this pint-sized island makes for a riveting day-trip, which is best undertaken from Doolin, just south of Galway.Â
It is possible to take a quick plane trip over the water to Inis Oirr, but to fully appreciate the power of the wild Atlantic, a 30 minute ferry trip from Doolin port is the way to go. As it was, on the day I headed over to Inis Oirr, the ocean tempest was in full force, making for a rollicking, slightly sick-inducing ride across the water.
After taking refuge in one of the island’s three atmospheric pubs, I took a pony & trap ride around the island to check out the main sights and the extraordinary network of dry stone walls that criss-cross the island. In addition to the old stone forts, castle and churches, the real draw was the Plassey shipwreck.
The opening credits of  Father Ted  showcase Inis Oirr with a panoramic aerial sweep across the island and the rusting hulk of the shipwreck. In 1960, while sailing through Galway Bay carrying a cargo of whiskey, stained glass, and yarn, the Plassey was caught in a severe storm and ran aground on Finnis Rock. A group of local Islanders rescued the entire crew from the stricken vessel. Several weeks later a second storm washed the ship off the rock and drove her ashore on the island, where she has remained ever since.
Just five months ago, during Storm Christine, the wreck's position on the shore was shifted for the first time since 1991.
Back on the mainland, my Father Ted hunt took me to Kilfenora, just east of Doolin in County Clare. Â
The series, which first aired from 1995 to 1998, was abruptly brought to an end by the tragic death of Dermot Morgan, who suffered a fatal heart attack, shortly after shooting what would be the final episode of the TV show. In 2008, to commemorate the 10th anniversary of Dermot Morgan’s untimely death, a festival was held in Kilfenora, as is commemorated by a plaque at the Kilfenora Community Hall. Although most interior shots were filmed in a London studio, most exterior shots were filmed in and around Kilfenora. Â
A notable sight is Vaughans Bar, which was the original venue used when filming one of the funniest episodes of all, the Lovely Girls competition. The bar’s owner, Mark Vaughan, who actually appeared in the show, is heavily involved in organising the annual Ted Festival, held in Kilfenora.
Thousands of show fans flock to the town for the annual madness, many in fancy dress, imitating the characters of the show. The festival includes all manner of irreverent contests including running nun races and of course – a Lovely Girls competition. Cast and crew members occasionally appear at the Ted Fests, as guest judges. But the prize draw in the area is Father Ted’s House, which was known as Parochial House, in the TV series. This is the house where Ted, Dougal, Jack and Mrs Doyle lived, in the TV series. It is actually the private home of the McCormack family, who became besieged by a procession of starry-eyed fans, knocking on their front door, looking for Ted. In response to the public demand, the family welcome visitors to the house and serve afternoon tea, but you have to pre-book. Go on, go on, have a cuppa tea.
To book a tea serving and get an inside tour of the famous house, you can email Cheryl at [email protected]. A recent international visitor to the house was no less than Stephen Spielberg. Officially known as Glanquin House, it is a huge thrill to admire the property from the front gate. As I gazed across the property, I could vividly visualise Ted, Jack, Dougal and Mrs Doyle running riot across the front lawn, as they frequently did in the TV show. Or Mrs Doyle falling off the roof.Â
Built in the 19th century, this sky-grey Georgian style house looks remarkably unchanged from how it appeared in the TV show. If your are self-driving, this is how to find it. From Kilfenora, it’s a ten minute drive west of town on R476 to Kilnaboy.  Turn left off R476 by the Round Tower and graveyard onto L1112, which takes into the Burren. Father Ted’s House is located 6.2km down this road. Once you reach the roadside car park for the national conservation area, veer left ( as the road has two forks in it) and Ted’s House is located just 1.5km from here. It took me a while to locate it, which is why I have written down these precise distances. But if you have any trouble finding it, just ask any of the locals who will gladly point you in the right direction.
Alternatively, if you don’t have a rental car, Ted Tours which features Parochial House, operates daily from Kilfenora. For further information, visit www.tedtours.com
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