Pint-sized Montenegro blends the rich heritage of the Balkans with catwalk-ready Mediterranean good-looks. Heroic-looking highlands, pretty blonde bays edging the royal blue Adriatic Sea, antique Venetian villages and UNESCO-walled cities underpin its pulling power.  My magnificent two-week long Balkans Adventure with Trafalgar Tour hop-scotched across seven countries, with most heartland destinations being many miles from the sea. But our time in photogenic Montenegro added a striking new perspective to the Balkan storybook, given its ravishing coastal scenery, draped by the sun-splashed allure of the sapphire blue Adriatic Sea.

Border checkpoints on the trip carried their own comedic idiosyncrasies, spanning the highly officious to the once-over-lightly. My Trafalgar travel director, Tammy, was a seasoned pro at helping to lubricate the wheels of officialdom, tailoring her checkpoint overtures to their respective tastes. Albanian border guards preferred candy, the Bosnians were partial to grapefruit juice, Bulgarians took kindly to cash while the Montenegro guards adored cheery palinka. Gleefully receiving their fresh supplies, the border guards waved us through and we were beach-bound, as a blaze of terracotta-tiled roofs edged the astonishing blue coastline.  

Photo / Supplied

Although Croatia is the Adriatic’s biggest beach babe with a truly sprawling coastline, Montenegro’s claim to fame lies in its unspoiled terrain. The opal water twinkles in the afternoon sun, with a bevvy of pristine sandy beaches serving up commanding views of Montenegro’s famed limestone cliffs. There’s all manner of coastal bolt-holes to explore, like the luxury islet Sveti Stefan - once the secluded holiday playground of screen goddesses including Marilyn Monroe, Elizabeth Taylor and Sophia Loren. Novak Djokovic added to A-lister cachet a decade ago, booking out the entire island for his gazillion dollar wedding. It’s easy to see why Sveti Stefan graces global magazine covers. A red-roofed tangle of irregularly shaped whitewashed stone villas is suspended above turquoise sea, edged by a pink-sand beach. Russian oligarchs can’t get enough of it.

Our Montenegro base was Budva, aka the Budva Riviera and Montenegro’s Miami. As the country’s prime tourist town, it boasts a slew of buzzy hospo venues, shiny super-yachts, a gorgeous old town, and miles of beaches. Escape the crowds on Slovenska Beach and bliss-out at the double-bayed Mogren Beach. Budva is one of the oldest settlements on the entire Adriatic Coast, so you’ll want to dive into the history. Budva’s Stari Grad is as idyllic as old towns get, with an unbeatable seaside location, where marble streets and Venetian walls jut out of iridescent waters, while the Citadel offers up mouth-watering views. The old town is often referred to as a ‘mini-Dubrovnik’, but the comparison is a little unfair. Surrounded by 15th-century ramparts, encasing labyrinthine lanes, small squares and gorgeous gift stores and art galleries, it’s very much its own beast, ripe for exploration.

Photo / Mike Yardley

Our hotel in Budva, Iberostar Slavija, is a swanky new offering, particularly popular with Serbia’s beautiful people and young professionals cherishing a cheeky coastal getaway. The roof-top sun deck is the cherry on top, with a salivating infinity pool to drink in the panoramic ocean vistas. As the sun started lowering, I headed back across the road to the golden sands of busy Slovenska beach, to savour a Balkan beach sunset in the sultry twilight warmth. If I was still a party animal, I would have happily joined the beautiful set for a nocturnal adventure until dawn. You won’t find better beach parties in the Balkans than what sparks up right here. Budva is swooned over for its nightlife, with an impressive roster of bars and clubs, headlined by Top Hill and Trocadero. Word of warning – the sound volume is oppressively ear-bleeding. But if you’re in the mood to party, bodacious Budva will be your best head-blasting buddy. 

Just north of Budva, we also ventured to Kotor, an operatically beautiful town, wedged between brooding mountains and a moody corner of the bay, in Europe’s southernmost fjord. The soaring peaks curve away from the bay, like dramatic waves made solid mid-curl. Kotor’s stoic city walls that reach back to the 9th century arch steeply up the slopes behind the town, spanning nearly 5km in length. Artfully lit, come nightfall, the walls bestow the town with a golden halo, girding this pocket-sized jewel of a town. Need to top-up your daily steps? Ascend the 1200-metre-high fortifications, on a thigh-slicing hike, clocking up 1350 steps to reach the top, where castle ruins and chapels add to the adventure. Hello, celestial views!

Whether you have a heart for great food, romance, history or Venetian architecture, Kotor is a crowd-pleasing gem of the Adriatic, where the history mingles casually with souvenir shops and alluring eateries. Kotor also has an adorably out-of-control population of cats, who imperiously hold court in the lanes. Just inside Sea Gate, the Square of Arms is home to a picture-perfect 17th century clock tower. Right in front it, a strange stone pyramid which was used as a pillory to publicly shame wayward citizens.

St Tryphon’s Cathedral is Kotor’s glorious Romanesque-Gothic limestone masterpiece, now sporting baroque bell towers, after the original frontage was destroyed in the 1667 earthquake. Relics of the city’s patron saint rest inside. Saint Luka’s church is a charmer, too. Constructed in 1155, this Orthodox church is a Romanesque survivor, miraculously remaining standing despite disastrous earthquakes and wars.

Photo / Supplied

Good eats? The country’s prime location on the Mediterranean means the seafood is sublime. The country’s strong Balkan heritage means the dishes are equally influenced by neighbouring Albania and Bosnia, as they are by Croatia or Greece. The fresh-caught octopus is grilled and drizzled with olive oil and served alongside sarma (cabbage leaves stuffed with mincemeat) or slices of salted sheep’s cheese arranged around platters of succulent vegetables.

Thanks to the clear seawater of the Bay of Kotor, mussel farms are a big business here. Sink into a plate of Mussels with Buzara Sauce. It’s a Kotor classic. Buzara is a simple traditional recipe where olive oil, garlic, parsley, tomatoes, and wine are all the ingredients. Wash it down with a glass of Montenegro’s award-winning red wine, Vranac. This ancient, native Montenegrin variety has been produced since at least the 14th century. With a big, bold fruity-spicy character, it tastes similar to Merlot.

Photo / Taste Atlas

Kotor brims with small pastry shops, which may well explain its instant seduction on me. Cherry-filled strudels are a hot-seller. Yes, please! But for two other signature treats, head to the greatest pastry shop of all, Café Forza in the Square of Arms, where the crowds queue here for Krempita and Moscow cakes. Krempita is like an extra-decadent custard slice loaded with whipped cream. Simple, but sublime. Best of all - Moscow cake which is a decadent riot of almonds, pineapple, sour cherries and cream, sandwiched between layers of thin pastry. Overdosing on such calorific goodness, I felt obliged to give those fortifications an encore work-out.

Trafalgar’s amazing Balkan Adventure is a 14 day tour, spanning seven countries and 13 cities. Enjoy excellent four-star accommodations, extensive sightseeing, outstanding specialist local guides,  super-comfy coach travel with on-board Wi-Fi, plus most meals are included. It’s a hassle-free way to explore this eye-opening part of the world. For 2024 tour dates, prices start from $5,895 per person, twin share. www.trafalgar.com/en-nz/tours/balkan-adventure

Mike Yardley is our resident traveller on Jack Tame Saturday Mornings.