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MIKE YARDLEY: Climbing the Walls of Medieval Chester

Author
Mike Yardley ,
Publish Date
Fri, 30 Oct 2015, 5:12pm

MIKE YARDLEY: Climbing the Walls of Medieval Chester

Author
Mike Yardley ,
Publish Date
Fri, 30 Oct 2015, 5:12pm

What is the best preserved walled town in England? You might be tempted to suggest it’s York, but the correct answer is Chester. A 2000 year old classic that remains a hit with 21st century visitors.

If, like me, you’re a history-hungry traveller, you’ll be in seventh heaven. Cradled within the gift-wrap of its ancient sandstone walls is a city of unbelievable visual splendour. And the best way to get an introductory overview of this bewitching city is to traverse the walls, a 2 mile elevated circumnavigation of Chester’s historic centre.

Originally built by the Romans in 79AD, creating Britain’s largest Roman fortress, the Anglo Saxons and the Normans subsequently revamped the walls. Stop to admire Eastgate Clock, a masterpiece artwork straddling the walls,  which was built for Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee. It’s the most photographed clock in England, after Big Ben.

And don’t miss a curious little staircase built in the walls called the Wishing Steps. Legend claims that if you can run up and down these uneven steps while holding your breath your wish will come true. That being said, I’m still waiting for my Lotto wish to be granted. Chester was also home to the largest Roman amphitheatre ever built in Britain, with  a 7000-strong seating capacity.

Much of the site was only fully excavated eight years ago, and many of the most precious items unearthed during the big dig are on display at the museum. But what will really win you over are The Rows, Chester’s medieval shopping arcades, first built in the 13th century. It remains a mystery why these long shopping galleries, were designed in double decker style, but the Tudor-style, black and white timber framing buildings that house them, exude an ageless charm.

Smack-bang in the city’s dress circle, the Chester Grosvenor is the beating-heart of the city’s social and hospitality scene. This landmark hotel which opened its doors in 1866 is a whirl-pool of time-honoured elegance, artfully blended with all the contemporary creature comforts. An unreservedly gorgeous property, the  ravishing wooden staircase has graced the pages of thousands of wedding photo albums. You’ll find the service is pin-sharp, obliging and stylish.

Whether you’re staying in-house or not, I highly recommend the hotel’s Parisian-style bistro, La Brasserie, which the locals adore for its relaxed ambience and flavourful regional fare. For fine dining at its best, the Michelin-starred Simon Radley restaurant specialises in French cuisine with a creative twist. Try “Pond Life,” a wildly popular dish featuring crayfish tails, garlic snails and a frog’s leg bonbon. In the spirit of decadent self-indulgence, the hotel’s in-house artisan chocolatier, Rococo, fashions irresistible treats out of chocolate.

After surrendering to temptation, I duly repented with some quiet reflection in the city’s Christmas-card pretty churches. Chester Cathedral has a fleet of famous Dukes and Earls buried on-site. And I particularly enjoyed exploring the multi-layered St. John the Baptist Church. First built in 689AD, remnants of the ancient building have been merged with the later Norman church which the on-site volunteers will help you get your head around.

Finally, if you’re travelling to Chester as part of a family adventure, your kids will adore Chester Zoo, where they’ll be grinning like Cheshire cats at over 12,000 animals. The latest attraction at what is Briatin’s biggest zoo is the islands experience, which have recreated the tropical environments of six South East Asian islands. Highlights include looking for the Sumatran tiger tracks and a tree top encounter with an orangutan. You can also take the Lazy River Boat Trip around all six Islands to discover more wild treats. 

Needless to say, many travelling families use the zoo as bribery bait to reward their youngsters for patiently biding time through the historic treasures of Chester. It’s an all-round winning destination.

Mike Yardley is Newstalk ZB’s Travel Correspondent on Jack Tame Saturdays. 11.20am

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