The Cyclades group of rocky speckles in the glittering Aegean Sea are what dream islands are all about.  In contrast to the heavily- tromped on Greek rock-stars like Mykonos, I recently sampled a scattering of lesser-trafficked gems, including Syros. This delightful destination hasn’t succumbed to the tourism gloss, her streets aren’t seething with hordes of day-trippers disgorging from cruise ships. It is tourism on a on a more manageable, human and sedate scale.The soul of Syros hasn’t been overwhelmed by the sun-lounger society, yet it’s entirely welcoming, endearing and utterly authentic. As an aside,if you look at a map of the island, it bears an uncanny resemblance to the shape of Britain.

Syros sports a strongly Venetian aesthetic, testifying to the fact that many Cyclades islands fell under Venetian control in the 13th century, before the Ottoman Turks ruled the roost several centuries later. You will find those quintessential sugar-cube houses scattered across Syros, but arriving into the port town of Hermoupolis, it’s the sweeping collection of Venetian-style town houses, rising majestically from the colourful, café-fringed waterfront that steals the show.  Previously owned by shipping magnates, they complemented their townhouses with even more grandiose summer villa retreats across the countryside of Syros.

Slithering like multi-coloured lava down the slopes of its twin conical hills, Ano Syros and Vrodadao, Hermoupolis takes its name from Hermes - not the French fashion house, but the God of Merchants.  It is the capital of not only Syros but the entire Cycladic island group. So, if you need a lawyer, a driver’s licence or a building permit in the Cyclades, this is where you come. In the 19th century, during the war of Independence from the Ottomans, Greek refugees fleeing from the Turkish massacres across Asia Minor, flocked here in the 1820s, naming the town in honour of the Greek God. It was a very apt name because it soon became the busiest port in Greece.

The beautiful blue-domed Greek Orthodox Resurrection Church, crowning Vrodado hill, is another poignant landmark, symbolising the successful pursuit of a safe refuge from Asia Minor and the swift development of the town. To the left of Vrodado, the peak of Ano Syros is studded with the 13th century Roman Catholic Church of St. George, boasting a star-fretted roof and baroque capitals. It is one of Greece’s finest Catholic churches, with an equally powerful back-story. Capuchin monks and Jesuits settled on the island following the breakup of Byzantium, and Syros retains a much higher population percentage of Catholics, compared to most of Greece.

Established as a medieval settlement, Ano Syros now blends with the main town of Hermoupolis. You can catch the bus up to the top of its soaring heights, or scale the steeply rising network of inter-connected staircases and lanes, swathed in marble and ablaze with bougainvillea. The hill-top views are insanely panoramic, a suitable reward after trudging up hundreds of marble stairs. Although as I walked back down them, I had visions of walking like a penguin for the rest of the week.  As I was made my way down, a lovely old Greek mama hanging up her washing, struck up a conversation in with me. When I told her I was a Kiwi, she beckoned me inside for some hairy-chested Greek coffee, and whipped out old photos of her father’s village in Crete, that New Zealand troops attempted to liberate. Syros is that kind of place.

Back in the heart of town, Hermoupolis is studded with grand neo-classical buildings, which now basks in UNESCO World-Heritage protection. The elegant town square looks like it could have been teleported direct from Italy. Plateia Miaouli square is studded with sprawling palm trees, edged by spirited cafes and bars and dominated by the grandeur of the Municipal Palace, or City Hall. It was designed by famed Bavarian architect Ernst Ziller (who also designed the Grande Bretagne Hotel in Athens) and it’s particularly charming after sundown when families and romantic couples parade about the marbled pavers and arcades flanking the square, on their customary evening walk, or volta, as the Greeks call it.

Built in 1861 as a smaller -scale imitation of Milan’s La Scala, the Apollo Theatre is another example of Syros's architectural wealth. Severely damaged during WWII, the theatre was finally restored and reopened in 2000. Today, operas and other cultural events clog the summer schedule. Another cultural treasure to add to your check-list is housed in the Church of the Dormition; a painting of the Assumption by El Greco, executed when he was 20 years old.

Heading east from the Apollo Theatre, take a stroll through the Vapória district, where many of the island’s wealthiest ship owners, merchants and bankers also built their mansions, just behind St. Nicholas Church. Meticulously maintained, they exude timeless style. You’ll notice the steps that lead down to the water, where golden sandy beaches beckon. The most popular beaches in Syros include Vári, Foínikas, Yalissás and Kíni. Back in town, the retail scene is traditional and charming.. The old fashioned pint-sized shops will blow up your Instagram account. The produce sellers, fishmongers and grocers all look like Con the Fruiterer.

Sýros has some distinctive gastronomic touches. The seafood is predictably amazing and they’re very big into thyme-infused honey. It’s everywhere, as are some great little pies, called Halva pies, which are crammed with thyme honey and roasted almonds. They’re superb. Syros also does great cheese. Their trademarks are kopanisti and San Mihalis cheese which is super spicy. But equally pleasing to the palette is the affordability. Compared to the glam hotspots of Mykonos and Santorini, you’ll get a lot more bang for your buck. I gorged myself on freshly-caught octopus stuffed with feta for ten euro, on the soothing waterfront.

Accommodation is equally light on the wallet. I stayed in one of those old waterfront townhouses which had been converted into a B&B for just 40 Euro a night. Boasting a spectacular sun terrace where a traditional homemade breakfast is served by the delightful Mrs Liana, Locadiera Pansion offers tastefully decorated, air-conditioned rooms with en-suite bathrooms, flat-screen TV, free WiFi and tea & coffee making facilities. It really is a steal. www.locadierapansion.com

Just a three hour ride through the deep blue Aegean from Piraeus, I love how the Greek ferries do a very theatrical pirouette, as they arrive into port, before backing up to the wharf. The spectacle is like a giant version of water ballet. I plied the fabled waters with the super-efficient and friendly team on Blue Star Ferries who operate a wealth of routes and offer a great range of on-board services. It’s the only way to sail the Greek seas. www.bluestarferries.gr

Mike Yardley is Newstalk ZB’s Travel Correspondent on Saturday Mornings with Jack Tame.