Wellington had dawned bluebird bright and brilliant as I made my way to Queen’s Wharf to catch an East by West ferry to Matiu/Somes Island. Diamonds of light sparked off the waves as we zipped over to the island, in the gentle southerly breeze. This nuggety, forest-fringed island crowns the middle of Wellington Harbour like a time-honoured landmark, endowed with a rich history. Like a perky cub scout, I was eager to explore its story.
Matiu is the Māori name of the island, and as the story goes, the great explorer Kupe bestowed this island with the name of his daughter. Fun fact: Matiu is now typically used as a boy’s name, similar to the English Matthew. Somes Island is the name the colonial New Zealand Company gave the island. Matiu/Somes Island was first used as a pa site, given its strategic location smack bang in the heart of the glistening harbour. Then the Europeans built a lighthouse and used the island as a human and animal quarantine station, an internment camp, and a military defence position. Now it’s thriving a wildlife and conservation reserve and all of the historic strands can be explored on a day trip to the island.
This stunning nature reserve is a haven for endangered native birds and other wildlife, and features a long list of historic and ecological attractions. You’ll travel through thriving native forest and plant life on your way to visit WWII gun emplacements, old quarantine buildings, and a quaint lighthouse.
Alighting from the ferry, a chirpy DOC ranger greeted us and ensured we cleaned our shoes and checked our bags, in case any pests had hitched a ride over from town. Matiu/Somes is a predator-free island, so they’re biosecurity sticklers for averting the threat of an incursion. Rats and other pests were eradicated from the island in the late 1980s and as I ventured off on the loop walk, the cacophony of birdlife serenaded my arrival.
With their successful reintroduction, the sight and sound of the red-crowned parakeet, or kakariki, is a real joy. I was surprised how close they’d let you get to them. In addition to kākāriki, other native forest bird populations include fantail, kingfisher and silvereye. Down on the shoreline, a variety of seabirds were busy feeding, including gulls, the spotted shag, variable oystercatchers and fluttering shearwater. Without the threat of cars and predators, Matiu/ Somes also provides critical habitat for the world’s smallest penguin—little penguin / korora. I’m not a huge fan of creepy crawlies, but the island also has a thriving population of Cook Strait giant wētā and Wellington tree wētā, after being reintroduced 25 years ago. The island is a triumphant ark of native species, in the heart of Te Whanganui-a-Tara.
The 40 minute loop track takes you around Matiu/Somes Island, offering spectacular views across Wellington Harbour, cut like a key hole into the bottom of the North Island. After the initial short ascent up from the wharf, it’s a doddle, with a kaleidoscope of sights from the historic lighthouse to the quarantine buildings. n World War I and much of World War II, the island was a camp for enemy alien internees who were considered a security threat, so German internees were held here. There were some attempted escapes, with two German prisoners successfully swimming across to Petone, only to surrender to police on the shoreline. On the summit of the island, you can see five concrete structures that remain from a World War II heavy anti-aircraft artillery position. The gun emplacements were built in 1942, but never had to be used in war, despite the fear of Japanese attack.
After enjoying some sun-splashed island time, I re-joined the ferry for the short hop over to Days Bay. Sitting pretty amid a sweep of pretty coves on and sun-splashed beaches, Days Bay is a sweetheart Eastern Bays sojourn from the city bustle, peppered with cosy hillside cottages, verdant trails and home to the landmark wharf where an obligatory wharf jump remains a perennial pastime. Adjacent to the bay immortalised by Katherine Mansfield a century ago, Eastbourne is a ten minute stroll away, brimming with eye-catching gift stores like Artisan, enticing cafes and galleries. Backed by dense cliff-side bush and blazing Northern rata trees, the Eastern Bays sets the stage for an elemental detox.
Hook up with Wildfinder Pencarrow, hire an e-bike and soak up the dramatic coastline and pounding ocean all the way to Pencarrow Lighthouse. It’s 90 minutes return. Once home to New Zealand’s only female lighthouse keeper, it’s now a destination where you’ll enjoy unrivalled perspectives along the storm-lashed harbour entrance. The octagonal cast-iron lighthouse has its own captivating backstory. Not only was it the country’s first permanent lighthouse, it was also home to its first and only female lighthouse keeper – Mary Jane Bennett. Mary’s husband George died in a boating accident in 1855, but despite being pregnant, Mary was undeterred from her duty.
It was under her watch that Pencarrow Lighthouse was first lit on New Year’s Day 1859, and she stayed on as lighthouse keeper until 1865 raising her six children alone. After soaking up the history, on a clear day, savour the horizon-wide views, right across the Cook Strait to the South Island and the serrated Kaikoura Ranges on a clear day. It’s a banger of a ride. Wildfinder also offer kayaks or stand-up paddle boards for hire, from The Boatshed at Days Bay. However you choose to savour the outdoors, reward yourself with a chocolate milkshake from Chocolate Dayz Café in Days Bay. https://wildfinderpencarrow.co.nz/
North of the Capital, I took a drive on Transmission Gully, parking up at Paekākāriki to strike out on the Escarpment Track. Running from Paekākāriki to Pukerua Bay, this exhilarating track is part of the Te Araroa Trail. A reasonable level of fitness will suffice as you navigate some of the more strenuous features, notably the 400 steps on the Stairway to Heaven. (If you set off from the Paekākāriki end, at least you’ll be descending this stairway, rather than trying to clamber up it.) The sky-high views across the coast and ocean and out to Kāpiti Island are simply stupendous if not a little vertigo-inducing. Additional highlights include swing bridges near Pukerua Bay and the soothing shade of the native forest.
Then there are the unforgiving drop-offs. It’s not for the faint-hearted and watch your step on the track, because there aren’t guard rails to catch you. Interpretation panels speckled along the track narrate the area’s long history and significance to Nga Uruora. It’s a superlative trail best enjoyed at a leisurely pace, with plenty of water, as you drink in those knock-out views and keep a watchful eye on your footing. Lower your carbon footprint by integrating a train journey into the experience, when you reach Pukerua Bay, by catching a train back to Paekākāriki. It’s our walk of the Gods. www.wellingtonnz.com
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I romped my way around Wellington in a trusty Toyota RAV4, courtesy of Ezi Car Rental. Kiwi owned and operated, the Ezi experience encompasses excellent vehicle choice, stringent cleaning practices, super sharp prices, and fast & friendly service. Ezi Car Rental operates an extensive network from 25 locations across the country. Head to www.ezicarrental.co.nz
Mike Yardley is our resident traveller on Jack Tame Saturday Mornings
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