Tucked away on the northwest tip of Ireland, Donegal has long been dubbed the nation’s “forgotten county.” No matter where you’re starting from, be it Dublin, Belfast, Shannon or Cork, tripping to Donegal is not a passing-through sort of experience, but a far-flung destination you’ve purposefully decided to visit.   

From rugged cliffs, towering sea stacks and quiet coves to charismatic heritage towns and whispers of the past crowning the landscape, wind-whipped County Donegal fast cast me under its spell. Driving up from County Sligo, I called into quaint Ballyshannon for a coffee-stop, and a leg-stretcher in what is Ireland’s oldest town – stepped in distilling and brewing history. The pint-sized town still has a surfeit of watering holes. 

From there, I ventured west to reach the truly captivating of spectacle of Slieve League. As the highest accessible sea cliffs in Europe, Slieve League should top your Donegal bucket list, a stunning quartzite marvel that is like a super-sized version of the Cliffs of Moher. Rising as high as 600 metres from the churning Atlantic, that’s three times the height of the Cliffs of Moher, down south. Bunglass Viewpoint is where to head for the money shot of that jutting sprawl - the perfect stop for a mindful moment soaking up the cliffs in all their glory. The mammoth cliff face glows with mineral deposits in tones of amber, white and red. On a clear day, turn around and look behind you – you’ll get a stirring view of Ireland’s iconic table mountain Ben Bulben, stamping its presence on the horizon. 

Slieve League Cliffs. Photo / Tourism Ireland

There’s a multitude of hiking trails to size up, but if you want to add a dollop of history to your work-out, plump for the Pilgrim’s Path. The 3km walk takes its name from the era of Ireland’s Penal laws in the 18th and 19th centuries, which force Irish Catholic dissenters to convert to the Anglican Church. Many Irish refused to convert, so they met in secret in remote places, such as Slieve League, where they said mass from allotted “mass rocks.” Along the Pilgrim’s Path, you’ll find the remains of a Mass Rock, a makeshift “church.”  Today it’s in ruins, but the name has stuck. 

Back in the car, I tootled along the twisting ribbons of road slicing through the ridiculously good-looking rolling pastoral countryside, cross-crossed with dry stone walls, en-route to Donegal Town. The coast serves up some stupendous stretches of bone-white sandy beaches, like Muckross Beach and Fintra Beach. I had both beaches to myself, basking in supreme solitude. They’re close to the cosy village of Carrick, sliced by the River Finn. In salmon spawning season, there’s a spot on the Upper Finn named the Cloghan Salmon Leap, by Ballybofey, which is very self-explanatory. Famed for its stunning natural beauty, this is where to head to see the awe-inspiring sight of salmon leaping upstream. The rushing waters cascade over rocks, and the salmon will defy gravity to leap up the waterfalls as part of their migration.  It is best viewed in late summer and early autumn, after rain. 

Fintra Beach. Photo / Tourism Ireland 

You’ll also breeze through Kilcar, another village charmer, which is well worth a stop for their local garments, if you’re after some authentic gifts. Kilcar is the centre of the Donegal handwoven tweed industry. Hand-embroidery, knitting and other cottage industries also flourish here, so have a spend-up. Freshly kitted up with a Kilcar woollen beanie, I was ready for another wind-lashed full-body exfoliation, surrendering to the coastal elements with a layover in Killybegs. Donegal heaves with fresh seafood, much of which is hauled to the country’s busiest fishing port, in the village of Killybegs. Despite its petite size, this maritime epicentre hosts an internationally acclaimed annual seafood festival. Build your own seafood trail sampling succulent dishes from a number of restaurants and seafood cafes in the village or simply sit and watch the boats go by.  You’ll struggle to chomp down on fresher seafood chowder, than here. 

Backdropped by the Bluestack Mountains and overlooking Donegal Bay, Donegal Town is a vibrant town steeped in historic draws. Letterkenny is the biggest urban centre in the county, but Donegal Town is a storied destination, awash with history’s echoes and alluring hospitality second to none. Donegal Town links a dynamic present with an historical past – the coming to power of the O’Donnell Clan who ruled the roost in these parts for 400 years (1200 –1607AD). They were one of the most powerful Gaelic families Ireland has ever seen. The construction of both Donegal Castle and Donegal Abbey in 1474 saw the area emerge as the ruling seat for this dynasty, who held sway over forty-two castles and nine monasteries within their boundaries. Donegal Castle was used as a base for them to communicate with the Kings of Spain/France and the Vatican.  

Donegal Abbey ruins. Photo / Mike Yardley 

Before heading to the castle, I took a stroll through the wistfully beautiful ruins of Donegal Abbey, destroyed by the English, overlooking Donegal Bay. In 1632, it was in small huts amongst the ruins that the Four Masters conceived and commenced work on the most famous comprehensive history of Ireland at that time – ‘The Annals of the Four Masters’. 

In 1607, after the Nine Years' War, the leaders of the O'Donnell clan left Ireland, and the English victors established the Plantation of Ulster, granting the castle and its lands to an English captain, Basil Brooke. He added a large manor-house wing to the tower house, sticking with the Jacobean style, and using stones from the wrecked abbey. Brooke also planned and built the present-day structure of the town – complete with a central marketplace – The Diamond. Donegal Castle later fell into a ruinous state but was magnificently restored thirty years ago. It’s a landmark experience to wander through the castle and soak up the rich history, which is vividly illustrated throughout its quarters.   

Donegal Castle. Photo / Supplied

In the eye-catching heart of town, The Diamond no longer bustles as an open-air marketplace, but you can sense the history. The enormous sandstone obelisk in the centre of The Diamond is a memorial to ‘The Four Masters’ who charted Ireland’s history. Surrounding the Diamond are a trove of authentic family-owned stores including the fabulous Magee’s department store. Founded over 160 years ago, Magee’s weaves, makes, and sells luxurious handwoven tweed clothing, with a made to measure service. It’s also a go-to for pottery, linen, crystal. For more great Irish crafts, gifts and home décor, also check out the Irish House and Forget Me Nots. Peckish? Head to the Olde Castle Bar & Red Hugh’s Restaurant. Just across from Donegal Castle and a storybook ninth century church, this traditional Irish bar and restaurant offers the freshest locally sourced seafood and steaks. 

Where to stay? Just out of town, Harvey’s Point is a luxury four-star lakeside resort located on the shores of Lough Eske at the foot of the Bluestack Mountains. The hotel boasts palatial accommodation choices, including traditional spacious suites with a dreamy lake view. It’s the supreme sense of light and spaciousness that first impresses, as your senses are constantly soothed and stimulated by the scenic tranquillity, the resort’s grandeur and the sparkling hospitality. The wraparound ambience is enriched by the graceful design elements, from the wood panelling, chandeliers and gallery-worthy artwork to the homely warmth of the roaring open fires.  

Harvey's Point Resort. Photo / Harvey's Point 

Be sure to feast on gourmet Irish cuisine at the Lakeshore Restaurant. I started with a breast of Pigeon, enriched with pumpkin, beetroot, truffle and pomegranate. Wild Monkfish was my main dish - beautifully accompanied with parma ham, pistachio & black sesame crust, pak choi, sweet potato and cardamom beurre blanc. Dessert prompted some tough decision-making, settling for the most decadently divine Treacle & Date Pudding with rum caramel and ice cream. Harvey’s Point is quite the lap of luxury at the lake’s edge. 

Fill your heart with Ireland in the enchanting Emerald Isle. For more touring insights and inspiration, head to the official website. 

I flew to Dublin with Qatar Airways, recently crowned the 2025 World’s Best Airline by Skytrax, scooping the supreme honours for the ninth consecutive year. Qatar Airways flies non-stop between Doha and Auckland daily, with onward connections to 170 destinations, including daily flights to Dublin. I flew in Economy and you’ll notice the difference with one of the widest seats in the industry, complete with adjustable headrests. Lap up generous dining, complimentary Wi-Fi and over 8000 on-demand entertainment offerings in the Oryx One system. For best fares and seats to suit. 

Mike Yardley is Newstalk ZB’s resident traveller and talks travel every week on Saturday mornings with Jack Tame.