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Mike Yardley: A trail of luxury in the Margaret River

Author
Mike Yardley,
Publish Date
Fri, 19 Feb 2016, 10:45am

Mike Yardley: A trail of luxury in the Margaret River

Author
Mike Yardley,
Publish Date
Fri, 19 Feb 2016, 10:45am

The sense of solitude is what first swept me up. Miles upon miles of soul-rinsing coastal sweeps,  achingly gorgeous with colours so vivid it’s virtually cartoonish.  A far cry from the heavily-trafficked  beaches of Australia’s East Coast, Western Australia’s Margaret River region serves up an astounding smorgasbord of pristine white sand stretches, where you’ll struggle to spot footprints beyond your own.  But of course it’s not just the breath-taking coastline and booming breakers, worshipped by surfies, that serve as the region’s siren-call.

There’s the giddy spree of glorious wineries, craft breweries, art galleries and artisanal prowess including chocolate, ice cream and cheese producers, along with the alluring coterie of luxury retreats and health spas. I sampled a flavour of these enticements on a fleeting foray to the Margaret River with Walk Into Luxury.  This premium, all-inclusive operator was founded on the premise that many hikers crave deluxe comfort, so why not blend the best of the Cape to Cape track with some of the surrounding trimmings and designer frills?

Their most popular experience is the 4 Day Small group guided walk, although they’ll happily tailor a salivating package to suit your needs and schedule. Under the dome of a bright blue sky, I savoured a distilled 1 Day version of the Walk Into Luxury experience from sun-kissed Smiths Beach. With the mercury hurtling towards 40C, my gregarious guide, Dean, handed me one of their custom insulated day packs, fitted with a thirst-quenching 2 litre hydration compartment, which is not just a sanity-saver in the scorching heat, but a prized take home memento.  My pack was also stocked with a spoil of gourmet snacks to enjoy along the walk, including the fiendishly addictive Bettenay’s Nougat.

As I set off with Dean, I was soon fixated by the photogenic interlay of burnt-orange granite and pale limestone coastal rock formations . Just minutes from Smiths Beach, I was trudging across a mighty granite headland before staring in awe of a sandstone cliff face, as we descended to the shore. Spilling out across the coastline, some rock formations are prim and sculpted cliff-side stacks while others resemble discarded knuckle bones, providing an ever-changing sense of drama and colour to the seascape. Mitchell Rocks is an arresting natural monument of iron-rich red granite boulders, as big as the size of buses. Scattering out in an orderly arc from the shoreline, Canal Rocks turns on a stirring spectacle, too. Jutting out from Cape Naturaliste, Dean pointed out the off shore islet of Sugarloaf Rock. 6 million years ago, it marked the joining point between Sri Lanka and Southwest Australia, before the landmasses drifted apart.

Despite the February heat baking the coastal foliage bone dry, Dean led me through some striking vegetation, from the thickets of tea trees and petrified forest to the valleys awash in native rosemary, emitting a perfume cloud to out-muscle a freshly incensed Catholic Church. The region is renowned for its sprawling carpet of wildflowers, with over 2500 species in full blaze through spring and early summer, including 150 types of orchids. The Cape to Cape track shadows the Indian Ocean’s Humpback Highway, where 30,000 whales cruise between June and November, with many coming inshore to calf.

My three hour taster of the track was a 6km romp from Smiths Beach to Injidup, studded with a spooling reel of knock-out scenery, inviting ocean swims and heart-stealing rock pools, like the Spa and the Aquarium – as the locals have dubbed them. Walk Into Luxury’s  4 and 8 day offerings also average about  3 hours walking per day, allowing ample time for designer decadence and relaxation. It’s a winner of a way to walk out west. Unlace your walking boots and surrender to the multitude of regional delights that Walk into Luxury’s integrated packages stitch together. I enjoyed a lip-smacking gourmet lunch at Wills Domain, one of the region’s most decorated wineries, and deservedly so.

Nestled among the tumbling hills of the Gunyulgup Valley, it’s a celestial spot to revel in an exclusive four course lunch with matching wines. I fell in love with their Semillon – and the tiger prawns with almond and orange are divine. Taste more wines in their Cellar Door while admiring the local art.   Another recommended stop is Leeuwin Estate, one of the region’s founding wineries, and a consistent producer of award-winners.

Nearby, Smiths Beach Resort is an exquisitely designed beachfront property, with an inventive array of fully self-contained accommodation options.  I plumped for an ocean view villa, a two-storey blockbuster with copious living space. It’s a beautiful, contemporary option, ideal  for families or two couples travelling together. The lower level features a downstairs bedroom with kitchenette and bathroom, while the massive upper level comprises a master bedroom, open plan living area with large dining table, beautifully appointed lounge area with all the high-tech toys, and a fully equipped kitchen.

The cherry on top is the private entertainers’ balcony with personal barbeque. Smiths Beach Resort had loaded up my fridge with a stack of salads, meats and sauces so I could cook up my own storm on the balcony. Fabulous! If you’d prefer someone else to do the cooking, the on-site restaurant and deli, Lamont’s, celebrates the region’s freshest cuisine with a nightly a la carte menu. Throughout the day, Lamont’s bustles with diners enjoying breakfasts, light lunches, great coffee and expansive wine tastings. 

Another popular Cape to Cape bolt-hole is the Injidup Spa Retreat, an intimate luxury property set just back from the sands, but with an unobstructed view of the bay and cobalt-blue Indian Ocean. Comprising just ten luxury villas with sun decks, plunge pools and seductive living spaces, the real draw is the spa, which offers a diverse range of wellness treatments. Himalayan crystal salt glow, anyone? You’ll float out of her feeling reborn. 

Drifting along quiet country roads, shaded by towering gum trees, with road signs warning you to look out for roos, the abundance of offerings from food and beverage producers is astounding. You’ve got over 200 wineries to graze from, but don’t overlook the craft beer scene which is burgeoning in the Margaret River and enjoys solid credentials. Within a gorgeous bucolic setting,  Eagle Bay Brewing is crowd-favourite with exemplary beers and undeniably moreish woodfire pizzas. Cheeky Monkey Brewery is another top performer with stand-out beers and ciders, including their Hatseller Pilsner with New Zealand hops. Plus, another recommended stop is the latest arrival, Young Henrys Brewery.

For further insights on exploring the Margaret River, head to www. westernaustralia.com

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