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Mike Yardley: A splash with Cape Cod

Author
Mike Yardley,
Publish Date
Sat, 11 Feb 2023, 12:26PM
Photo / Brand USA
Photo / Brand USA

Mike Yardley: A splash with Cape Cod

Author
Mike Yardley,
Publish Date
Sat, 11 Feb 2023, 12:26PM

Fawned over for its beaches, lighthouses and abundance of historic sites, Cape Cod is what sea-sprayed vacations are all about. Visitors flock to eastern Massachusetts in order to savour its infectious maritime character and divine New England cuisine. As part of my New England road-trip, I headed south from Boston, basing myself in Hyannis, for a fleeting foray with some of Cape Cod’s finest features. (Avoid the summer crush for a far more blissful experience.)

Home to a trove of fascinating museums, we popped into the cute-as-a-button Cape Cod Maritime Museum. Edging the eye-catching harbour, the nautical history of Cape Cod is beautifully presented, with maritime artifacts, art and models offering illuminating glimpses of the seafaring history of the people. The museum also features a boat collection, some of which are over a hundred years old.

If you want to get a first hand experience of how Cape Cod’s wooden boats are built, there’s also a boat workshop on the grounds where you can learn how to make these vessels yourself. Watching boats sail by in Hyannis Harbour is a visually soothing spectacle. You can also catch some of the local artists selling their boutique works along the harbour, in their merrily-painted wooden shanties. Peckish? It’s not a fluke that Spanky’s Clam Shack and Seaside Saloon has scooped multiple awards for its seafood.

A beacon of New England dining staples, if you want to go all out, order the New England-style lobster dinner. If, however, you want something lighter, the clam chowder should not be missed. Another top haunt is the Black Cat Tavern. Must-tries in this lively venue are the lobster quesadillas, clam chowder, and the lobster roll. Fresh oysters are offered here as well. Bag a table here right before sunset so you can enjoy the views with your food.

In the heart of Hyannis, on Main Street, an absolute unmissable is the John F. Kennedy Hyannis Museum, brimming with photographs, archival films, documents, and memorabilia related to JFK and his family. A statue of a young JFK striding barefoot through beach grass, adorns the museum’s frontage.

Previously the town hall of Hyannis, the museum was built as a tribute to the Kennedy family and their profound connection with the area. The family’s love of Cape Cod and the sea is lustily celebrated, along with themed exhibits that have focus on everything from the Kennedy Compound in Hyannis Port to Jackie’s impact on global fashion .

Beyond Hyannis, there’s so much to discover along Cape Cod’s 65 mile-long span, that juts into the Atlantic like a curled arm. Just out of Hyannis, we called into the enthralling Whydah Pirate Museum, which brims with incredible artefacts from the pirate ship, which sunk in a storm, in Cape waters just over 300 years ago. In 1984, it became the first authentic pirate shipwreck from the Golden Age of Piracy ever discovered, a remarkable triumph for underwater archaeologist explorer Barry Clifford. Blackbeard's Queen Anne's Revenge was discovered off the coast of North Carolina in 1996. Recovery of the Whydah’s remains is ongoing and the museum houses the largest collection of pirate artefacts ever recovered from a single shipwreck.

The three-masted British slave ship was captured by pirate Samuel “Black Sam” Bellamy and used to plundered treasure from 53 ships, until it went down in a 1717 storm, killing all but two of the 146 people on board. Tonnes of silver, gold and cannons sank into the sea and were buried in the sand. When the ship’s bell was recovered in 2013, (on display in the museum) the wreck was identified beyond a doubt. Continuing research of this archaeological site and its recovered artefacts are explained and displayed alongside a reproduction of the Whydah.

This is the only museum where you can see real pirate treasure – gold and silver coins, salvaged from the ocean floor. Two years ago, archaeologists recovered six skeletons inside huge concretions, from the Whydah’s watery grave, which are now on display at the museum. One of the big takeaways from the museum is how their impressive arsenal of artefacts sheds new light on pirate culture, which may surprise some: One of egalitarianism, racial tolerance and democracy. There was also a sense of Robin Hood to these pirates – stealing from the rich to help the poor. It’s definitely worth a visit.

Emblematic of this storied pocket of New England, the Cape Cod National Seashore protects 40 miles of Cape Cod’s dramatic east coast, with crashing waves, bird colonies and woodsy walks. Loved by Henry David Thoreau and declared a National Seashore by John F. Kennedy in 1961, the unmolested sense of wild nature is intoxicating along this coast. Embrace the elements on those vast sweeps of sandy beach, interspersed with freshwater ponds and thick woods of Atlantic white cedar, laced with hiking trails.

Throughout the Cape Cod National Seashore historic lighthouses make for postcard-perfect photos. We ventured to a handful of lighthouses including the most iconic structure, Nauset Light. Adjoined with the keeper’s house, this red and cream lighthouse has found added fame as the symbol that emblazons the bags of Cape Cod potato chips! Located in Eastham and within walking distance of Nauset Light, check out the Three Sisters Lighthouses. These lighthouses were the original guards of the Nauset Cliffs before being replaced by Nauset Light. They were named the Three Sisters because from out at sea, they were said to look like three women dressed in white, wearing black hats.

Be sure to add Chatham to your sightseeing route, one of Cape Cod's most appealing beach towns, with a gracious air, white-sand beach and classic lighthouse. It’s also home to the Chatham Marconi Maritime Centre, the site of the former Marconi/RCA Wireless Receiving Station, a major World War II military installation and once the East Coast's busiest ship-to-shore station. Be sure to take a stroll in downtown Chatham, where upscale boutiques, art galleries, antique stores and fine dining establishments stretch for a mile along Main Street.

Wherever your travels take you, you’ll ooh and aah over Cape Cod-style houses, characterised by a steeply pitched gabled roof, shingled exterior, symmetrical façade, shutter-clad and with dormer windows. Clapboard or Cedar shake roofing and side shingles are typically left unpainted to weather in the elements. While Cape Cod houses can have multiple floors, most residences are single-storied. Cape Cod style is comfort food architecture that has stood the test of time.

Where to stay? The ultimate place to lay your head in Hyannis is at Sea Street Inn, a meticulously-maintained modern luxury B&B-style inn that was opened five years ago by a New York couple, plumping for a sea change. Impeccably stylish and comfortable, this small boutique inn near the sea is a triumph of authentic hospitality and indulgence. Needless to say, it’s routinely showered with accolades and awards. You’ll be royally treated by the effervescent owner and culinary chef, Adrian D’Ambrosi, a former Wall Street investment research analyst, who will spoil you with a scrumptious lobster roll upon check-in and a gourmet breakfast prepared daily in his designer open-kitchen.

His wife, Xenia, is the brains behind the inn’s artistic touches and celebration of nature. The welcoming parlour is replete with plush leather seating and soft music that sets the mood on this relaxing, convivial bolt-hole. Thoughtful floral and plant touches accentuate the romantic ambiance, while the gallery space plays host to gorgeous works from rotating artists. With just three guest guestrooms and two spacious suites, it is an intimate, home-spun and personable Cape Cod experience. We stayed in the First Floor Suite which features a plush queen bed with top of the range furnishings, separate sitting room with Smart TV, mini-fridge, and a large modern bathroom with walk-in shower. On one night, the charming owner of Provincetown’s iconic Lobster Pot was a fellow guest, as was Martin Scorsese’s former personal chef.

Yes, this is a foodies’ favourite and the crowning jewel is the four-course breakfast, which is positively five-star. In fact, it should be Michelin-starred. Strongly influenced by traditional French culinary techniques, Adrian’s lavish breakfast showcases the exceptional seafood and locally-sourced produce synonymous with the Cape. His curated daily menu is truly mouth-watering. During my stay, I noshed on a wide array of delectable small dishes, from Lobster Benedict and Corned Beef Hash with Quail Egg, to Spanakopita, French Toast and Egg Salad Baguette. Every delightful dish was supremely executed and eagerly devoured. Treat yourself to a truly irresistible stay at Sea Street Inn. www.seastreetinn.com

Adrian could also moonlight as a commanding tour guide, because he was a trusty font of knowledge and inspiration on essential sightseeing experiences in Cape Cod. Just a short walk or drive from Sea Street Inn, we made our way down to Hyannis Harbor for a treacle-dipping sunset spectacle across Nantucket Sound, from the prized perch of Hyannis Port Golf Club, where JFK would regularly swing his clubs. As an enormous American flag, gilded by the setting sun, fluttered in the breeze by the clubhouse, it was a pinch-yourself moment, as we soaked up all the elements. Just below the golf course, the fabled Kennedy Compound unfurls its splendour. You can walk around the compound’s enclave of three houses on the side streets, where the salty air seems pregnant with the revered sense of history. Another huge American flag flaps proudly in the breeze. You’ll find yourself catching your breath, all over glorious Cape Cod. www.visittheusa.com.au

Fly to Boston from Auckland with Hawaiian Airlines, via Honolulu. Flights depart Auckland three times weekly on Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday and Hawaiian Airlines connects to 15 US mainland cities. Treat yourself to Extra Comfort, which is very reasonably priced. Hawaiian Airlines’ Extra Comfort seats on the Airbus A330 offer considerably more legroom, priority services and enhanced amenities to make your long-haul travel experience decidedly more comfortable. www.hawaiianairlines.com

Mike Yardley is our resident traveller on Jack Tame Saturday Mornings.

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