After soaking up the urban buzz and colour of sultry Hanoi, I was hankering for a dip with Halong Bay. Two and half hour’s drive east of the city, it is entirely feasible to sample the bejewelled beauty of Vietnam’s limestone seascape as a day trip from Hanoi. But as you may have heard, Halong Bay proper has become the victim of its own acclaim, constantly overcrowded with a heaving flotilla of tourist vessels, vying for the best vantage points. For those in the know, there’s a far more rewarding alternative, directly northeast of Halong Bay.

Bai Tu Long Bay is Halong’s lesser-known neighbour, but more than an equal in the beauty stakes! Strictly speaking, Bai Tu Long is actually an extension of Halong Bay, rather than being a separate entity, comprising three quarters of the Halong Bay World Heritage site.

The story goes in Halong folklore that Halong Bay is the final resting place of a fierce mother dragon who was sent to help the early Vietnamese defend their country from Chinese invaders. Bai Tu Long Bay is said to be the area where her children descended and remained. ‘Bai Tu Long’ translated into English, means ‘Bowing down and showing respect to the dragon's children.’ You have been warned! The Vietnamese are very proud that these waters have staged some epic victories over the Chinese and the Mongolians, over the centuries.

Departing from Halong International Harbour, I boarded a day cruise with La Muse, a rather luxurious steel boat that recently joined the Indochina Junk Fleet. Mixing urban elegance, pops of colour and rustic charm materials, the guest capacity is limited to 40, so you’ll have ample room to roam the spacious open deck, or loll about in the restaurant and lounge, as your eyeball all of those wondrously shaped limestone islets.

Lavishly studded with 600 islets jutting out of the tranquil emerald waters, it feels otherworldly and peacefully escapist to blissfully drift around and commune up close with these thrusting fangs of rock. I felt lost in a lullaby of limestone. It’s an epic story of geological evolution, including tectonic uplift, the advancing sea and sustained erosion that has formed the seascape we see today. The islets are basically the eroded remnants of ancient flooded mountains.

There are so many whimsical shapes to these rock formations, giving rise to endearing names like Mat Quy Islet, which translates as Monster Face Islet. Rising 34 metres above the waterline, it’s the nose and eyes of this “monster” you notice straight away. Local folklore tells the tale that Mat Quy Islet is the petrified head of a monster killed by Kim Quy, the Golden Tortoise. As you do.

Then there is Am Tich Islet (Teapot Islet). The legend goes that this teapot belonged to the Jade Emperor who accidentally dropped it, due to its broken handle. And that’s the unmistakable shape of the rock formation. Add to the check-list, Dragon’s Head Islet and Toad Islet.

After feasting on a fabulous on-board lunch, spanning squid cake, seafood soup, king prawns and local baby oysters that are plucked off the rock walls of Bai Tu Long Bay, it was time for a spot of caving. Docking at Cong Do island, with its radiant sweep of sugar-white sands, a spot of caving was instore. Trudging up 100 steps through a dense forest canopy and out onto the cliff face, our group entered Thien Canh Son Cave. Beautifully mood-lit, it’s three main chambers have been a trusty refuge for storm-stricken sailors over the centuries, richly blessed with white, smooth limestone stalactites, drawing together like large curtains. Then there is the collection of stalagmites that resemble all manner of wacky shapes, from a baby elephant, to the lotus flower, or the group of gnomes holding a meeting. Some of them were inadvertently damaged by cave occupants over the centuries.

Exiting the cave, the elevated views from Cong Do island serve up a necklace of gleaming islets stretching into infinity. Back down at the beach, we boarded a bunch of kayaks for a thrilling float around these rock formations, marvelling over the baby oysters clinging on for dear life on the rock walls and the placid, mill-pond calmness of the bay’s emerald waters. It’s was spellbinding day out in this wondrous pocket of Vietnam, savouring a distilled version of Halong’s pulling-power.

Wendy Wu Tours offers a wealth of touring options in Vietnam, whether you’re looking for an extensive multi-day journey or private day-trip, threading together all of the essential sights with flexibility for personal exploration. The on-the-ground local expertise was exceptional. You’ll love the passion, informality and knowledgeable insights of your guides. Book a touring option that best suits your desires. www.wendywutours.co.nz

Pleasantly poised in the heart of Hanoi, Pullman Hanoi delivers all-round indulgence at great-value. Touting a range of in-house cuisines, La Cheminée is inspired by international classics, the Mint Bar is perfect for a relaxing drink, and Executive Lounge offers an exclusive experience on the 10th floor. Definitely upgrade your stay for lounge access to enjoy a superb buffet breakfast, plus food and beverage presentations throughout the day. The outdoor infinity pool is a god-send in sultry Hanoi, while the extensive fitness centre, complete with TechnoGym machines, is a crowd-favourite. Throughout my stay, the warmth of the welcome and the level of personable, graceful customer service was exceptional. It’s a trusty home away from home. https://pullman-hanoi.com/

I jetted my way to Hanoi with Malaysia Airlines, who offer super-convenient, one-stop services from Auckland via Kuala Lumpur, eight times a week. With well-timed overnight flights, I slept my way across Australia’s wide girth, to and from KL. The award-winning, national carrier Malaysia Airlines is a full-service airline, renowned for competitive airfares, exceptional service and quintessential Malaysian hospitality.  The in-flight entertainment offerings and meal services are impressive, across all classes. As a oneworld alliance partner, enjoy enhanced connectivity to more than 900 destinations. Bag some great fares and seats to suit with the Malaysia Airlines Explore the World Sale. www.malaysiaairlines.com

Mike Yardley is our resident traveller on Jack Tame Saturday Mornings.