The World Heritage-protected Daintree region of North Queensland is a unique tropical wonderland, comprising 95kms of supreme coastal rainforest and white-sand tropical beaches. Dutifully picked up by my AAT Kings ground operator in Port Douglas, our bus truck was under the command of driver/guide Alison, an effusive and entertaining host, who engaged us all day with her passionate knowledge and enchanting anecdotes about this remarkable pocket of wild and protected Australia.

En-route to Mossman, vast swathes of sugarcane plantations awaiting harvest dwarfed the highway, inter-linked with narrow-gauge railway tracks providing trusty transportation to the processing plant. From Mossman, it’s a short hop to the Daintree River, where we boarded our boat for a taste of wildlife unplugged. The 140km long Daintree River, of which a third is tidal, boasts a bewildering abundance of wildlife. In fact 40% of all of Australia’s bird species can be found in the Daintree, but it’s sighting the saltwater crocodiles who lurk in the river that provides the biggest frisson.

Our river cruise pilot, Bruce, added a sense of theatre to the croc-spotting mission, excitedly yelling out, “Tracking 12 o’clock, tracking, tracking…just in front of us…croc identified!”  As it was, with the tide high, most of the crocs were partially submerged in the mangroves. We also spotted a plethora of hatchlings, sunning themselves on tree stumps. Bruce remarked that the good thing about the hatchlings, is they’re easy to photograph. “Get them enlarged and you’re friends will never know it was just a baby you snapped.” 

For every crocodile eggs that hatch, only 1 in every 100 babies survive the first year. They face a formidable array of predators including the Amethystine Python, the third largest snake in the world, spanning 9 metres in length. These guys swallow saltwater crocodiles, cassowaries, dogs, chooks – even kangaroos. What a diet. Disembarking from the boat on the north side of the Daintree River, you enter the heart of the forest, which is considered the oldest rainforest in the world, clocking in at 135 million years.

We headed to Alexandra Range Lookout, or Wal Wugirriga, which provides a supreme panoramic perspective of how the lush rainforest dips down to the waterline to meet the Great Barrier Reef. Two World Heritage treasures, essentially locking lips. Traversing some artfully designed boardwalks and aerial walkways, I gazed in awe at the multitude of ferns, palms and cycads, marvelling at the variety of shapes, forms and textures within the forest.

After lunch, we headed to Cape Tribulation, evocatively named by Captain James Cook, while mapping the East Coast of Australia in 1770-71. Trails and much tribulation confronted Cook and his crew, after the Endevaour struck the Great Barrier Reef, gouging a massive hole in the ship’s side.  Cape Tribulation Beach is a beauty, a crescent-shaped sweep of creamy sand.

Gazing across this stupendous beach from the look out, the lack of swimmers was conspicuous. And wisely so. Box jellyfish were out in force, swimming and drifting on the current. They have the most lethal toxin known to man. October to May is stinger season – do not venture in these waters.  But alongside the Daintree’s menacing beasties, beauty abounds.  Alison’s razor-sharp sight spotted a glorious peppermint stick insect chilling out on a palm frond. It looked like a giant twig dunked in vivid lime. 

Our final stop was at Mossman Gorge, where we delighted in the recent eco-tourism developments that have been created by the Mossman Gorge Aboriginal community, and the traditional Daintree owners, the Kuku Yalanji.  90% of the employees at the Mossman Gorge Centre are indigenous. We met our local Kuku Yalanji guide, Tom, who imparted a fabulous overview of his culture, basic language skills and insights about how the forest has been a huge provider of traditional food, medicine, the artistic palette, tools and weaponry for his people.  “Yalada” is the tribe’s all-encompassing greeting for hello/goodbye – a bit like the Italian greeting of Ciao.After a scrumptious afternoon tea of damper scones and locally made honey – oh, and more Daintree tea, Alison led us on a dreamy forest hike via the beautiful boardwalks and suspension bridges.

More stirring forest species were pinpointed, from the electric red flowers of native ginger, to the eye-catching basket ferns and towering red cedars, with buttress roots. Our walk culminated with one last crescendo – the confluence of the Rex Creek and Mossman River waters, at the Gorge. Crystal-clear water cascades over the rich sandstone rocks. Clad in verdant forest finery, it’s a magical setting. And yes – you can safely enjoy a cooling dip here.  www.aatkings.com

Mike Yardley is Newstalk ZB’s Travel Correspondent on Saturday Mornings with Jack Tame.