With Eastern Europe continuing to offer extra bang for your holiday buck, how about dipping into the pint-sized nation of Slovenia? Whether it’s mountain-climbing, caving, tramping, skiing or water-sports, Slovenia is like European adventure in a snow-dome. But if heart-pumping adrenalin isn’t your bag, take a lazy foray to the princess-pretty capital of Ljubljana, for the history, romance  and cultural ambience that suffuses the city.

Set below the enchanting hilltop castle, and straddling the banks of the emerald-green Ljubljanica River, Slovenia’s capital city offers the short-stay visitor a slew of sights, culture and old-town fun. Best of all, the small-town tempo resonates across the historic heart, and it’s a pleasure to explore on foot.The best starting point is the spacious cobble-stoned main square in the Old Town, Presernov Trg. Taking pride of place is the Preseren monument, erected in 1905 in honour of Slovenia’s great poet, France Preseren. Motifs from his poems are sculpted onto the plinth.

To the south of the monument is the fabulously ornate Triple Bridge, spanning the Ljubljanica River.  Towering across the square is Slovenia’s most colourful church, the 17th century Italianate Franciscan Church of the Annunciation. The pastel coloured church, set against the stone of the Triple Bridge is a radiant and compulsory photo-stop.

The church’s main altar was designed by the  acclaimed Italian sculptor, Francesco Robba. Yet his most famous contribution to Slovenian public life is a short walk away at the adjoining square, Mestni Trg. Standing in front of the town hall is the Robba Fountain; not dissimilar to Bernini’s legendary masterpiece in Rome’s Piazza Navona. The Robba Fountain is a floridly sculpted artwork, depicting three titans with their gushing urns, representing the three rivers of the region. It is a fantastical creation worth admiring up close.

Ljubljana’s town hall was rebuilt in 1718, and is an architectural treasure-trove, featuring Gothic courtyards and renaissance arcades. The historic building is crowned with a golden dragon, which is the fabled symbol of the city. Nearby, pop into the Cathedral of St Nicholas, a gorgeous twin-towered structure, built 300 years ago. The interior is a riot of pink marble, white stucco and gilt, with baroque frescoes and magnificent carved choir stalls. Two monstrous bronze doors were installed in 1996, to celebrate the papal visit by the late Pope John Paul II.

Connecting the old town with the main train station, I just love the narrow promenade of Miklosiceva Cesta, flanked by historic properties and diverse architectural styles. But it’s the Art Nouveau properties which sing with personality, stamping a lingering, farewell impression of lovely Ljubljana on your mind, as you head for the railway station.  

Ljubljana’s most popular tourist site is Castle Hill, which is easily reached on foot, or by taking a ride on the recently installed funicular.  The hill played host to fortifications since Celtic times, although the existing castle complex stems back to the 16th century. Since then it has served as a royal residence, state prison and military barracks. Nowadays it is a public museum, concert venue and supreme vantage point to lap up the city panorama.

Love is in the air at Castle Hill. More Slovenian’s tie the knot at the lofty location, than anywhere else in the country. Now, exchanging vows is probably not on your agenda, however, take the Viewing Tower tour, which commences from the castle courtyard, and enrich your visit with a glimpse of a lavish Slovenian wedding. The tour includes access to the Virtual Museum which features a short 3D video exhibition of Ljubljana’s history. The climb up to the tower requires navigating a 95-stepped wrought-iron staircase, and then a short stroll along the ramparts which climaxes with magical views across the river and the old town. Attached to the Viewing Tower is the cute-as-a-button Chapel of St George, which is covered in exquisite frescoes.

And in keeping with the regal trappings of the Castle Hill district, live like a prince for a night or two at Ljubljana’s finest hotel, the Grand Union. In a city stacked with secrets begging to be discovered, a little known fact is that the Grand Union is one of the most-affordable luxury hotels in all of Europe. Spoil yourself. President Clinton stayed at the Grand Union, shortly after Slovenia claimed independence. Enjoy this fabulous heritage hotel at a snip. 

Travelling to and from Slovenia by train is definitely the easiest and most convenient means of transportation, with regular connections to Zagreb, Salzburg, Munich and Venice. In fact, if you want to take a quick dip into Slovenia from Venice, it’s just a 4 hour tootle down the tracks.