“Better than Disney World?” a fellow hiker enthused rhetorically.  We were marvelling at the infinity panorama, atop the Grand Canyon, on the Rim Trail at Mather Point. Last time I visited this astounding megalith of nature, I couldn’t see a damn thing, foiled by a freak snow storm and a heavy veil of fog. Mercifully, the weather gods were smiling on the throngs of sightseers, this bright, clear April morning. The Grand Canyon lures over 5 million visitors annually. 90% plump for the South Rim experience, which is superbly serviced by transportation options and home to the finest collection of landmark buildings you’ll find in any US national park.

If you’ve ever wondered about the dimensions, the canyon stretches for over 400km. Even though the average distance across the Grand Canyon is only 16 km, it’s a 346 km drive between the park’s South Rim Village and the North Rim Village. Self-driving the American SouthWest, I parked up my rental car at Williams, opting to board the Grand Canyon Railway train, which chugs its way to Grand Canyon Village in a little over two hours. Coupling storied history with rolling scenery through desert, prairies and forest, (keep an eye out for prairie dogs and antelopes) the rail excursion spectacularly rekindles the pioneering spirit of the West and the advent of rail tourism to the Grand Canyon - which is about to celebrate a milestone.

It was 115 years ago that the first train arrived at the South Rim from Williams, on September 17, 1901 – a spur line of the Santa Fe Railway. As the car steadily became king, the railway fell out of favour, shutting down in the late ‘60s. But for the past 20 years, the Grand Canyon Railway has captured the imagination of a new generation of travellers, complete with vintage carriages and engines. Plump for the Luxury Parlour class, where you’ll revel in lounge-style comforts including a private bar with handcrafted cocktails, plush seating, enormous picture windows, fresh fruit and pastries for breakfast and afternoon snacks for the return journey to Williams. In addition to the excellent on-board narration, you’ll love the costumed musicians who play tunes of the West.  www.thetrain.com

On arrival at South Rim’s Grand Canyon Village, it’s the monumental immensity of the canyon that takes your breath your way, stretching into the smudgy never-ending yonder.  It’s the myriad of colours, the wondrous layering, and the interplay of light that fixated me. If you’re up for some intrepid hiking from Grand Canyon Village, the Rim Trail wraps around the canyon rim for over 20 km, from Hermit’s Rest to Desert View Drive. The trail is paved and nearly level, so it’s an easy stroll, but there are no walls or railings along much of the trail. The alarming stupidity of my fellow tourists was turning me into a nervous Nigel. It’s all very Darwinian. So many visitors, armed with proboscis-like selfie sticks, walked backwards closer and closer to the precipice, to get that perfect shot, seemingly oblivious to the impending danger.

Then there was the stage-mother from hell, ordering her children to step further and further back, precariously on the edge of the rim, with a mile-deep drop,  so she could nail that happy family photo. One of her young children was clearly terrified, bawling his eyes out. “Tanner!” she screamed. “Stop crying, start smiling, or I won’t be buying you anymore toys,“ belched the fire-breathing mother. Where’s Child, Youth and Family when you need them?

It made me wonder, how many people do actually tumble to their deaths? Dying from heat or dehydration is actually more common, but on average, roughly a dozen people careen into the canyon, every year.  Most are male. Many are posing for photos and lose their footing, although last year, a 38-year-old father from Texas pretended to fall to scare his daughter, only to accidentally fall 500 feet to his death, shortly afterwards. I also discovered the single biggest reason people require first aid is for rock squirrel bites. Despite the signs, repeatedly warning people not to feed these flea-infested razor-sharp toothy critters, thousands do, only to end up with nasty bites to their fingers.

Also on the wildlife front, I was enchanted by the birds soaring above the canyon, playing in the air currents. Ravens are prolific, but something the national park is particularly proud of is the comeback of the California condor, with a nine-foot wing span.  Keep your eyes peeled for them! Something I really like about the US national parks is their rangers, suitably dressed in Smokey Bear attire, provide a regular schedule of free walk and talks, which will certainly enrich your understanding of nature’s artistry. 

For an epic but doable day hike, take the free shuttle to Hermit’s Rest and enjoy the less-trafficked solitude on the 13 km trek back to Grand Canyon Village. You should also go below the rims, even if it’s for a mile or two, to grasp a greater sense of the canyon’s scale and to study the bewitching sequence of rock strata.  The Bright Angel trail would be my pick. Speaking of which, Bright Angel Lodge is one of the magnificent masterpieces of Mary Colter, a architectural pioneer who designed many of the historic lodging inns at South Rim.  The locals call her the famous “parkitect”. Built in 1935, and now operating primarily as a restaurant, don’t miss Bright Angel’s History Room fireplace, a ten-foot geologic cross-section of the Grand Canyon’s rock layers.  From the Vishnu Schist at the base to the Kaibab Limestone on top, the attention to detail is astounding. 

Where to stay? If you’re overnighting at the canyon, live it up at the Swiss chalet-inspired splendour of the 110 year old El Tovar Hotel, with its wonderfully woodsy lobby of peeled Oregon logs and walls festooned with moose, deer and buffalo heads. Undeniably evocative, it’s insatiably popular, so you’ll need to book a good three months in advance. Back in Route 66-spirited Williams, complete your experience with a night at the Grand Canyon Railway Hotel. Nestled within the Ponderosa pine forest of Williams, just two blocks from Route 66, this lodging sparks with character. From the charming lobby with a flagstone fireplace and historic paintings, to the antique elegance of Spenser’s Bar, it’s a stand-out hotel offering great-value accommodation, heated swimming pool and buffet restaurant.  It’s the perfect place to round out your encounter with the Grand Canyon.

Mike Yardley is Newstalk ZB’s Travel Correspondent on Saturday Mornings with Jack Tame. 11.20am