I hate to think how many pie-stops I’ve taken at Lake Tekapo over the years. Previously a fleeting rest-stop for travellers heading somewhere else, Tekapo deserves its snow-balling status as a singular destination. Interestingly, the Maori name, Tekapo, actually means a sleeping mat at night. Halfway between Christchurch and Queenstown, I’ve been repeatedly guilty of pulling over for a quick drink or pie and a cursory rendezvous with the Church of the Good Shepherd and the collie dog statue, before moving on.

But Tekapo’s global stature as a Gold Standard Dark Sky reserve, has amplified its magnetism with international tourists. Astro-tourism is a seriously big business. On my recent visit in late-May, the township was abuzz with globe-trotters. Not just the coach tour brigade  – and not just the 30 minute pit stop crowd. On this occasion, I too, had been lured to linger longer at Tekapo, a township that huddles under the soft-orange glow of hooded street lights. The stringent lighting measures help safeguard the unrivalled chandelier of stars, constellations and galaxies that smother the skies above the lakeside town, on a clear night.

The jagged torso of the Southern Alps and the high country’s rumpled terrain, normally glinting in golden tussock, were sporting quite the snow coat. After a priceless experience spending the day snowshoeing on Two Thumb Range, the hot pools were calling. The nearby skifields of Roundhill and Mt. Dobson also provide a constant flow snow-bunnies eagerly seeking the reward of a therapeutic dip at day’s end. Tekapo Springs has become a family favourite, a tractor-beam of temptation, following a multi-million dollar redevelopment. Open year-round, in winter, the prime attractions are the ice skating and snow tubing facilities, the steam and sauna facility, in addition to indulging in a sizzling soak in the hot pools. Nights can be seriously frigid in Tekapo, so a dip in those pools absolutely hit the spot!

Alongside Mt. John Observatory’s nocturnal pulling-power, a day time visit to the mountain summit is an unforgettable experience. If you’re planning on taking a night tour, acquaint yourself in advance with the ingenious machinery that peers deep into space, including New Zealand’s largest telescope, Moa. The summit road is open through the day (with an entry charge of $5 per vehicle) or you can opt to scale the summit via the Mt. John walkway, which takes about about 45 minutes each way.

Near the ice-skating rink, the walkway climbs steadily through larch forest before romping through tussock grasslands. A loop track continues around the summit below the Observatory, with an excellent reference panel pinpointing the soaring mountains encircling Tekapo and the Mackenzie Basin. With a fresh fall of snow dusting the mountain, I opted for the drive up, but however you choose to reach the summit, the views will knock your socks off.

The wraparound 360 degree panorama is beyond comparison. Lonely Planet recently hailed the Astrocafe, perched on top of Mt. John, as one of the greatest café locations in the world. It’s hard to disagree with that. From the lustrous, luminous turquoise sprawl of Lake Tekapo to the snow-capped peaks and golden hue of the Mackenzie Basin, it’s a panorama of breath-taking beauty.

Later in the evening, I had a hot date with the cosmos. Not even a thin veil of high cloud spreading in from the west could molest my best laid plans. The celestial night sky of the Mackenzie Country still turned on a magical spectacle, with the constellations shimmering through the pesky cloud. The Earth & Sky night tours depart every two hours in the winter months – and it certainly pays to book well in advance, given their popularity. My tour was chocca with international visitors, spell-bound by the clarity and texture of the southern sky. The Earth & Sky team will happily provide kit you out with a suitable jacket to insulate you from Jack Frost’s fangs, before setting off from Tekapo.

Transported up the mountain in a toasty tour bus, the driver warned us he is required to turn off his headlights for the final 400 metres of the steep and narrow climb, in accordance with the lighting restrictions in this Dark Sky Reserve. A frisson of anxiety swept through the bus. Thankfully, the moderate glow of the bus park lights was sufficient to guide the way through the jet black darkness.  Upon reaching the summit, the astro guides took us on a riveting introductory tour of the night sky and some of the key features.

They had a swag of telescopes strung across the summit, delivering awe-inspiring glimpses of the heavens. The reddish rusty hue of Mars looked amazing. As did Alpha Centauri and Jupiter.  The highlight for me was seeing the twinkling detailing of a nebula (where stars are born) up-close. With the temperature plunging into negative territory, trays brimming with complimentary cups of hot chocolate were whisked around by the friendly guides – and eagerly hoovered up. We were also escorted through some of the observatory facilities, where astronomers from both Canterbury University and Nagoya University were busy at work. 

Marvelling at our nation’s biggest telescope, Moa, was a high point, which is currently deployed in the mission to identify planets in the Milky Way that could support life. What struck me most about this fascinating encounter with the cosmos, atop Mt. John, was the infectious passion the astro guides exuded. They all looked like Sheldon from Big Bang Theory, were just as endearingly geeky and all exhibited a wickedly dry sense of humour. These tours are a class act and yet another signature experience unique to the marvellous Mackenzie.

Finally, if you’re hungry for more aerial exuberance, Tim Rayward and the team at Air Safaris are highly experienced, award-winning operators. Their Grand Traverse flight is widely recognised as the premier flight seeing experience of Aoraki Mt. Cook. Offering a wide array of indelible sightseeing experiences, they are Mackenzie’s flying kings. www.airsafaris.co.nz

For more information on exploring nature’s spoil of offerings in the Mackenzie, head to www.christchurchnz.com/destinations/aoraki-mount-cook-mackenzie/

Mike Yardley is Newstalk ZB’s Travel Correspondent on Saturday Mornings with Jack Tame.