Chris Lynch: Journeys through Los Angeles

Author: Chris Lynch,
Publish Date: Tue, 26 Jan 2016, 11:45am

Venice Beach is distinctively Californian and a must see area of Los Angeles.

It’s a paradox in many ways. Luxury homes and apartments with incredible sea views stretch the length of the beach, accompanied by gritty urban playing fields with skate parks, volley and basketball courts. Somehow, the contrasting lifestyles of the rich, and not so rich, blends together perfectly, creating a unique vibe you won’t experience anywhere else in Los Angeles.

If you like visiting world famous locations, but find crowds overwhelming, visit Los Angeles during the New Zealand summer break. Venice Beach, for example, is much quieter, given our summer is their winter, if there is such a thing in California! You’ll get away with wearing a t-shirt while walking along the world famous Venice Beach Boardwalk. Here you can buy just about anything you never knew you wanted, from tarot card readings to temporary tattoos. If you walk past street artists, but miss them performing a routine on a giant piano, and take their photo, be prepared to throw them some dollars for the privilege. They make a living out of unintentionally looking slightly 'off.'

If you need a break from the weird and wacky, walk a few metres towards the sea, and step onto the ocean front walk. The world’s most recognisable palm trees separate the two walks. You’ll see plenty of locals exercising; a great motivator to make you keep walking! The people watching is a sport on its own. There are plenty of places along Venice Beach to hire everything beach related including bicycles, skateboards, surfboards, wet suits, boogie boards and even paddle boards.

Speaking of exercise, just a few steps from the sand on Venice Beach Boardwalk is Muscle Beach Gym. Once the home gym of bodybuilders Arnold Schwarzenegger and Lou Ferrigno, the facility still serves the community as the only outdoor gym where Schwarzenegger lookalike bodies are everywhere.

Although Venice is known for its canals, beaches, stunning ocean front walk, artists and vendors, its metropolitan reputation deserves recognition.

Several blocks from Venice Beach is Abbott Kinney Boulevard. It’s an attraction in its own right with high-end shops, top restaurants and art galleries. It's coffee heaven for those keen to sip on something better than the very easy to find American filtered coffee. Be careful when going for ‘half and half.’ It’s not as healthy as it sounds, given half is milk and half is cream. Although some shops could be described as high-end, there are plenty of cafes with affordable coffee prices.

Intelligentsia Coffee is a local favourate and comes with a good tourist reputation. Like so many eateries on the boulevard, they’re not well signposted, blink and you’ll miss it. It took several walks up and down the street to find this place, but once I did, the taste of their coffee soon outweighed the frustration of finding the place. For an incredible food experience with generous portion sizes, head to Gjelina. It’s apparently the 'go to' place for local chefs, to eat, not cook, and it’s not hard to see why. Gjelina specialises in seasonal New American cuisine. You can eat in, in their rustic-chic dining room or take out.

If you’re after accommodation in heart of Venice Beach, Hotel Erwin is the place to be. It’s funky and extremely comfortable. Forget grand lobbies and over the top lighting. This is a trendy, sleek modern hotel, but in keeping of the Venice Beach urban style. The location is great; right on the boardwalk and beach near restaurants, bars, and other local attractions. It also has the only rooftop bar and lounge in Venice Beach with a truly relaxing non-judgmental atmosphere with the best sea views in Los Angeles. Because it’s so popular, it’s best to book, even if you’re staying at the hotel.

When I visited, I hadn’t booked, but staff were friendly and accommodating and found me a sea view seat. Because it’s the only roof top bar in the area, they make sure you have a good experience and that extends to their excellent cocktail menu. If you want a cocktail that actually tastes like what’s described in the menu, you won’t be disappointed. I was so impressed by this place, and the service, I tipped the waitress cash at the end of my time, in addition to the tip placed on credit card bill. In Los Angeles, you'll soon get a good feeling for who’s genuinely friendly and professional and who’s trying too hard to win your wallet.

SANTA MONICA

If you keep walking north along the ocean front walk from Venice Beach, you’ll eventually end up at Santa Monica’s most famous landmark, the Santa Monica Pier. It’s home to several restaurants, vendors and Pacific Park; a family friendly amusement park, which includes the world’s most recognisable ferris wheel and roller coaster. On any given day, you’ll see musicians performing and buskers. They’re not quite as wacky as the ones in Venice Beach. There are several gift stores along the pier if you need souvenirs, but if you’re after a more serious shopping experience, just a few blocks from the Pier is Third Street Promenade.

Third Street Promenade is an upscale shopping, dining and entertainment area in downtown Santa Monica. The promenade is home to well-known brands, but if you’re after a more unique shopping experience, there are plenty of stores to keep you happy.At the south end of the promenade is Santa Monica Place, an outdoor mall which features more high-end retailers such as Bloomindales and Nordstroms, and boutique stores like Coach, Burberry and Juicy Couture. If you need time out from shopping, head to the Rooftop Dining Deck, which features an outdoor dining patio plus five restaurants ranging from upscale to swank to comfy.

DOWNTOWN LOS ANGELES

It’s easy to dismiss Los Angeles as just glitz and glamour, and while the city remains the entertainment and movie capital of the world, it also has many world class museums. In fact, Los Angeles has more museums than any other city in America with many in downtown LA. An area once dismissed as a bit of a 'nothing zone' it certainly has gone through enormous change.

Local commentators attribute part of downtown's revitalization to the Staples Center; located next to the Los Angeles Convention Center. It opened in late 1999, and is one of the major sporting facilities in the Greater Los Angeles Area, but is also the revolving door to some of the biggest pop acts on the planet. Interestingly enough, as Christchurch continues to debate the validity of a stadium, perhaps city officials could seek advice from those responsible for Staples Center's business plan. Victor Matheson, an associate professor in economics at the College of the Holy Cross says in all the stadium studies he’s done, Staples appears to be the only one he’s come across that shows a "measurably positive impact on the Los Angeles economy." He also points to the fact that “it was largely privately funded and a venue that is used all the time, with professional hockey with the Kings and professional basketball with the Lakers.”

The ongoing construction boom backs him up. Spending on new development, remodels and room additions in Los Angeles reached $7 billion by the end of 2015, the highest it's been in three decades, according to the Department of Building and Safety. Department spokesperson Luke Zamperini told LA Public radio it’s the biggest construction boom he’s witnessed since the 80s. The rise in construction began in 2012 after several stagnant years and is expected to continue through 2016. One big construction project permitted in late 2014 was at LAX, which included renovations and a 14,000 square foot addition estimated at $2.9 million, according to the Building and Safety Department. LAX has a reputation for being chaotic at times, but my experience was extremely smooth sailing. Moving through airport security and customs is a frustration-free experience.

If you don't have time to experience a concert at the The Frank Gehry-designed Walt Disney Concert Hall on Grand Avenue, it's worth at least taking a few photos of its architectural brilliance. Some commentators suggest it was this building, which opened in 2003, that really kick-started downtown's revitalization by giving the area its first major landmark alongside monumental buildings like the Museum of Contemporary Art. According to the Wall Street Journal, in the past five years, Downtown LA has seen more than 500 new restaurants, bars, nightclubs and retail shops spring up.

I was fortunate enough to visit the area's newest museum, which has been described by art lovers as one of the best in downtown LA. The Broad museum, opened in late 2015, and is home to a massive range of contemporary art. The museum is named after philanthropist Eli Broad, who financed the $140 million building. It offers free general admission to its permanent galleries. The Broad houses a nearly 2,000-piece collection of contemporary art, featuring 200 artists, including works by Andy Warhol, and Roy Liechtenstein. Make sure you catch the video installation by Iceland’s Ragnar Kjartansson called “The Visitors.” Kjartansson filmed and recorded musicians in various rooms in a New York house, all playing music projected on nine screens.

THE GROVE AND FARMERS MARKET (Central Los Angeles)

If you're after shopping experience with top brands but want to avoid a large indoor shopping mall, then visit the Grove and Farmers Market in Central Los Angeles. These two destinations form a unique community, offering an amazing choice of dining and shopping. The Grove is an outdoor shopping complex, which means you don't feel so guilty shopping on a sunny Californian day! There's a charming lane which runs through the centre of the complex, which has a European feel with a touch of Disney Main Street.

Though the Farmers Market and The Grove are, in fact, two separate areas, they complement each other given their close proximity, meaning you can do both in one day. To give you an idea of their contrasting features, The Grove still feels new, having opened in 2002, compared to the Farmers Market, which has served as an Los Angeles landmark since opening in 1934.

The Grove is home to high-end brands. Make sure you stop in at Barnes & Noble, am amazing bookstore that has a broad range of adult and children's books. Be sure to check out the store's schedule for special guest appearances. Like many shopping districts in LA, The Grove makes the Christmas season feel extra special with a spectacular display of Christmas lights that line the main street. Although it may not snow in California, The Grove makes it happen with a snow show during the evenings during the holiday period.