It was a milestone for the Mainland on December 15, when State Highway One north of Kaikoura was re-opened. After 13 months of paralysis, Marlborough and Canterbury were reunited again, on the spectacular coastal route. Last month, I put the highway’s ballsy reinstatement to the test, fully aware that ongoing work meant I’d be encountering plenty of Stop-Go delays, unsealed sections and single lane traffic restrictions. Despite these dynamics, I didn’t find it onerous and the monumental scale of road rebuilding already achieved is positively Vogel-esque.

Ex-Cyclone Gita’s menacing impact in late February, bringing down monstrous new slips, was a cruel blow and temporary setback, but the road is open again and the full completion of its reconstruction is still scheduled for later this year. (The NZTA is now advising motorists to expect the drive between Christchurch and Blenheim to take five hours.) Driving around the Kaikoura Coast, hemmed in by sheer hillsides and the Pacific Ocean’s deep azure, it’s the uplift of the seabed that gripped my attention - raised as much as 5 metres at Waipapa Bay.

As a legacy of the quake, vast rock gardens protrude from the shoreline, an unfamiliar, slightly disconcerting, other-worldly aesthetic that has permanently reshaped the seascape. From the road, the sea now seems to be a lot further out. The ongoing road work around Ohau Point and at Irongate is particularly compelling – where mountains have been “moved” to resurrect the highway.

On a bright, sunny Sunday, Kaikoura was humming with activity and heaving with holidaymakers.  It was such a reaffirming sight, given the relative paralysis that struck the proud tourist town, 12 months earlier. I stopped at Nin’s Bin, a signature roadside shop now back in business, to buy some fresh crayfish.  Before long, the Awatere Valley was reaching out to greet me as I arrived into Seddon, the gateway to New Zealand’s flagship wine region.

With over 30 cellar doors studding the Marlborough Wine Trail, my first stop was at Yealands Estate, the world’s first carboNZero winery, established nearly ten years ago. Inspired by his deep love of the land, Peter Yealands is a towering wine eco-warrior, who has passionately harnessed the sustainability ethos. Nestled on the Seaview Peninsula, the roof of the winery is taken up by the nation’s largest solar panel installation (over 1300 of them), while wind turbines, native plantings and free-range animals, from the over-friendly chickens (who rush at you like a group of muggers) to miniature Babydoll sheep, are all part of the organic, eco-friendly mix.

Before tasting his wines, I savoured many of his signature vineyard features by taking a self-guided drive on the 7km-long White Route Tour. Grab a map from reception or download the app, and delight in the volley of discoveries as you roam the Yealands estate. The expansive vistas across the undulating folds of the vineyard, and the rolling Aratere landscape, are a visual symphony of nature in harmony.  Lookout Point is a celestial vantage point to gaze across Cook Strait to Wellington, while the South Island’s tallest mountain outside of the Alps, Mt. Tapaue-o-uenuku, looms to the west.

A young Ed Hillary would cycle out to the mountain in the 1940s from Blenheim, using it as a training base for his epic ambitions. I also encountered another Peter Yealands trademark, “Music in the Vines.” Just as Prince Charles swears by talking to plants, Peter lavishes his impeccably maintained vine rows with lashings of classical music. He’s adamant that it boosts their fruit production.  From Seddon, it’s a very short hop into beautiful Blenheim, where I did more winery-hopping along the “Golden Mile” in Renwick and Rapaura.

As the sun bathed the Wairau Plains in summer warmth, I chuckled at the sight of numerous middle-aged visitors cycling their way from one cellar door to the next, in alarmingly wobbly fashion. Sauvignon Blanc and oysters. Could there be a better pairing? I had my fill at Cloudy Bay’s Raw Bar, a very swish seasonal affair, swathed in well-groomed lawns and gardens, adorned in hanging egg chairs and oversized couches.  On the opposite side of Jackson Road, pop into the boutique joy of Allan Scott Family Winemakers, where you can relax in the shaded courtyard while grazing on local produce.

With so many cellar door and winery tour options, you really are spoilt for your choice in New Zealand’s largest wine producing region. For a palate change, I also ventured to one of the nation’s most decorated craft beer enterprises, Moa Brewery. Beyond the tasting room, their beer garden’s picnic tables and shady trees is a sparkling setting for chilled indulgence. Don’t overlook the food-truck – a converted 1074 landcruiser, from which Sandy’s Grilled Meat Company cooks up a storm. I plumped for a Pablo Burger, a succulent, decadent taste-bud sensation bound in buns.

For a complete change of scenery on a Marlborough mini-break, head out to Omaka Aviation Heritage Centre, located on the site of Blenheim’s historic aerodrome. Two exhibition halls showcase vintage aircraft, from the two world wars. The original Great War exhibition, Knights of the Sky, is now complemented by the WWII showcase, Dangerous Skies. All of the aircraft, both original and full-scale replicas, are on long-term loan from Sir Peter Jackson.

Many planes are fully air-worthy, and can be readily deciphered by whether a drip tray is situated under their belly. The magnificently theatrical dioramas and captivating scenes depict the aircraft in compelling context – some recreate actual incidents, like the plane that crash-landed into the only tree standing on Flanders. They are sumptuous works of art, masterly created by Wingnut Films and Weta Workshop. And the human stories behind the respective pilots of the aircraft are vividly brought to life.

Beyond the flying machines, Sir Peter’s treasure chest of rare war memorabilia is simply gob-stopping, including personal items belonging to the famous Red Baron himself. I was particularly struck by the display of artefacts connected to Hermann Goering, including the cap he was wearing in 1945 when he was captured by the US 7th Army. You’ll see his formal dress jacket and some of his log-books. Goering spans both wars. Before becoming a drug-addled power-tripping Nazi, he was a First World War fighter ace.

A variety of aviators are given the full Weta Workshop mannequin treatment, like Russia’s famous female fighter pilot, Lydia Litvyak, the “White Lily of Stalingrad” as the Soviet press nicknamed her. The sheer scale of Russia’s losses in World War II is chillingly illustrated with great dramatic effect. Another favourite personal story is illustrated by the mannequin of a Kiwi pilot, James Hayter, who was shot down over England and parachuted to safety, dropping down in the middle of a garden party.

The assembled lovelies promptly swooned over him and offered him a stiffener. Just imagine it – quite the floor show. The collection of magnificent flying machines are indeed magnificent, but the personalised human dimension threaded throughout the exhibitions, and the storytelling prowess, packs a poignant punch. It’s the real magic behind Omaka, warranting its reputation as a place you’ll want to visit, again and again. www.omaka.org.nz

Slap bang in the heart of Blenheim, just around the corner from that glorious urban oasis of Seymour Square, Blenheim Palms Motel delivers a delightfully relaxed and stylish roost. All studios and units are fully serviced, elegantly appointed and individually styled, with free WiFi and the full sweep of Sky Channels. Whether you’re travelling solo, as a family, or have romance on the menu, there’s a room to suit you. The Spa Suite is a hands-down winner with the loved-up. Ann and Ian are charming hosts, who will go out of their way to ensure your Marlborough getaway is a memorable one. www.blenheimpalmsmotel.co.nz

Planning a trip to the Top of the South? Check out the region’s official website for the latest visitor tips and insights. www.MarlboroughNZ.com

Mike Yardley is our Travel Correspondent on Jack Tame Saturday Mornings.