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Mike Yardley: Peak treats in Washington state

Author
Mike Yardley,
Publish Date
Fri, 20 Apr 2018, 7:18PM

Mike Yardley: Peak treats in Washington state

Author
Mike Yardley,
Publish Date
Fri, 20 Apr 2018, 7:18PM

Crossing over the Columbia River from Oregon into Washington State, the deep and languid river was as still as a painting, under a pale blue spring sky. Crowning the skyline, I feasted my fresh eyes on one of the most forbidding peaks of the rugged Cascade Range, Mount St. Helens. Thickly blanketed in late winter snow, this once soaring conical peak stood nearly 10,000 feet above sea level. But in May 1980, a catastrophic volcanic eruption ripped the summit apart, killing 57 people in the process, levelling hundreds of homes in the debris field that spanned 400 square kilometres.

It was the largest landslide in recorded history. The monstrous plume of steam and ash rained down across the West, with ash detected as far away as Denver! St. Helens now stands at 8,365 feet, and its scarred summit is defined by a horseshoe-shape crater. You can travel to within about 8km of the summit and the surrounding region abounds with thrilling hiking trails. On Spirit Lake Highway, I ventured to the Johnston Ridge Observatory, the closest visitor centre to the summit, named in honour of the scientist who lost his life in the colossal lateral blast.

I was enthralled by the fascinating exhibits on the mountain’s fiery geology, insights on volcanology, a gripping film recounting the horrifying eruption of 1980, plus the observatory serves up the most compelling views of the crater and lava dome. Mount St. Helens has been rumbling away lately, the only active volcano in the contiguous United States. Farewelling St. Helens, I rolled through the lush and undulating Washington countryside for another epic alpine experience, east of Olympia.

Mt. Rainier beckons like a seductive, snow-clad chanteuse, often veiled in clouds, teasing you with sneak peaks of her summit. Soaring over 14,000 feet high, Rainier is the queen of the Cascades, the highest peak in the range, wrapped in dense forests. I laced up my hiking boots on the lower slopes, communing in the silent forests of cathedral-like groves of Douglas fir, western hemlock, and western red cedar. Many specimens are over 1,000 years old.

Dozens of thundering waterfalls fill the air with mist. Simple sensory pleasures, unplugged. Like St. Helens, Rainier has a heart of fire, last erupting in 1894. This dormant volcano also doubles as a giant weather gauge. I frequently heard locals in Olympia and Seattle remark, “The mountain is out”, signalling that the region is bathed in particularly clear, sunny weather. A particularly sweet novelty in these parts. The upside to the region’s moisture-laden air is that Rainier’s glaciated slopes remain white year-round.

Several dozen galciers slither down her slops, bestowing Rainier with the largest glacial system in the contiguous United States. (Mainland USA, excluding Alaska.) High on the mountain’s southern flank, the Jackson Memorial Visitor Centre features an excellent collection of exhibits, spanning alpine ecology, mountaineering and their gigantic glaciers. 

Quirky and stately, Olympia is just a short trot away from these iconic mountains. Quirky and stately, the capital of Washington State is a laidback city, similar in size to Tauranga. The compact and charming downtown area is a doddle to stroll, wedged between Capitol Lake and the government buildings precinct, at the south end of town. To the west, Budd Inlet glistens with pleasure boats and yachts. There are small, unexpected surprises in pretty Olympia, from the blossoming miniature gardens to the horde of funky and fancy antique shops. Boosting its foodie cred, 222 Market opened three years ago, a labyrinth of artisanal restaurants and purveyors, selling everything from premium gelato to small-batch whiskey.

After enjoying an Aztec salad and ruby milkshake at the beloved Spar Café, a 70 year old institution, I scooted up to the imposing state capitol, framed by a skirt of granite steps. Celebrating its 90th birthday this year, the sky-scraping 87-metre high dome is a show stopper. Only the masonry domes of Peter's in Rome, St. Paul's in London, and St. Isaac's Cathedral in St. Petersburg rise higher. Wrapped in attractive grounds with memorials, rose gardens and cherry trees, the precinct is perched above the Capitol lake bluffs, serving up eye-grabbing views.

Overlooking Capitol Lake, Hotel RL by Red Lion Olympia is a fabulous city retreat, wrapped around 10 lush and leafy acres. My spacious guestroom included cable TV and free WIFi, while a fitness centre, free bike rentals and an outdoor pool are all at your disposal. Fabulous dishes inspired by classic American cuisine headline the dining offering, while the lobby’s Living Stage features live entertainment from local emerging artists.

I booked my Olympia stay with www.Expedia.co.nz  As the world’s largest online travel company, Expedia brings everything out there, together in one place, on a simple and easy to use website and app. From flights to car hire to accommodation, they cover it all. Kiwi travellers can bundle their flight and car hire bookings, or hotel and car together, for extra sharp savings. On a road trip, having all of your bookings itemised in the Expedia app is a stress-free way to keep on top of your plans. Thread your dream trip together and bag some great deals when booking at www.expedia.co.nz

Hawaiian Airlines offers one-stop flights between New Zealand and Seattle via Honolulu. For just NZ$145 per person, per sector, Extra Comfort Seating is a great-value way to accentuate the experience, particularly on the haul between Auckland and Honolulu. Hawaiian Airlines has expanded its New Zealand schedule, now flying five times a week from Auckland. Bag a great fare and seat to suit. www.hawaiianairlines.co.nz

Planning a great American adventure? Check-in on the official website for a world of trip inspiration. www.visitusa.com.au

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