Backdropping Victoria Harbour in regal grandeur, the Fairmont Empress Hotel is looking resplendent following a $60 million renovation, Exterior bricks have been repointed, the ivy is gone – as have the family of racoons who were living in the foliage. This majestic property first opened in 1908 and has continued to play host to global glitterati and passing royalty – even pesky ghosts.

I was itching to survey this national treasure, and whether you’re staying in-house or not, Tea at the Empress is a celebrated legacy experience, a hotel signature since its opening day. The freshly reinvigorated Lobby Lounge, with its creamy columns, parquetry and brass light shades, is a ravishing space to delight in this beloved ritual. The experience is so fiendishly popular that in the summer months, afternoon tea is served to more guests here than most hotels in London.

Even the china has its own characterful story -originally presented to King George V in 1914 upon the opening of the Booth factory in Stoke-on-Trent. The china was first used by The Empress in 1939 for the Royal visit of King George VI and the pattern is now produced by William Edwards exclusively for Fairmont Empress. After gorging on far too many pastries, scones and impeccably prepared finger sandwiches, I legged it, full-bellied, to Fort Street.

Affectionately nicknamed Antique Row, given its stash of auction houses and antique shops. Upper Fort has a fresher feel, with its growing hive of international restaurants, coffee shops and bakeries. Tourism Victoria advised me to take my own self-guided culinary tour, which is not just an enjoyable way to immerse yourself in the local vibe, but you’ll discover a retinue of treats along the way. Here’s  my picks.

Little Jumbo, 506 Fort Street. Nestled down a hallway at the harbour end of Fort Street, prepare yourself for a trip back in time to the prohibition era. Inspired by the best bars in New Orleans, Austin, Seattle and Portland, this is an evocative restaurant with superb food and a complete beverage programme. Little Jumbo’s cocktail creativity is refreshed every six weeks, with a new set of original cocktail arrays to delight all tastes, as well as perfectly crafted classics. 

Dutch Bakery & Diner, 718 For Street. The Dutch Bakery & Diner has been a family owned and operated since 1956, serving all day breakfast, lunch, and afternoon tea in the full service diner. The almond and butter cookies are legendary.

Choux Choux, 830 Fort Street. This French-style charcuterie has given a European flair to Victoria’s foodie scene. Choux Choux Charcuterie is Victoria's premiere traditional European delicatessen specialising in house made sausages, pâtés, smoked and cured meats and artisanal cheeses. Delicious bites include speck, smoked Cornish game hens and handmade venison sausages.                    

Hillary’s Cheese, 1034 Fort Street. A gorgeous gourmet cheese shop with a wide selection of local and imported cheeses. Sample a fresh daily lunch menu with warm sandwiches and other homemade delights. The daily grilled cheese special is a local favourite.

10 Acres Kitchen + Commons + Bistro is just steps from Victoria’s heart-stealing Inner Harbour, at 611 Courtney Street. 10 Acres delivers a striking West Coast experience showcasing the freshest foods from Vancouver Island including seafood and cheese along with the finest seasonal produce, meats and eggs direct from their farm on the Saanich Peninsula. With a definite appeal to passionate eaters and commitment to local, 10 Acres shines as one of Victoria’s brightest dining establishments.

Fishhook , 805 Fort Street. Serving up wild, sustainable and smoked Oceanwise seafood, this newly opened quick-serve eatery in downtown Victoria is the place to find a creative menu based around local produce. Selections include of tartines (open faced sandwichs), salads, chowders and a daily curry. Try the seasonal pickle plate or the smoked oyster po’ boy and finish with a fresh fruit Mexican style paleta (a.k.a. popsicle) or homemade ice cream from Victoria locals Kid Sister.

Canoe Brewpub and Restaurant, 450 Swift Street. Situated in the Design District, Canoe is a compelling 1894 heritage landmark building on Victoria's downtown waterfront, whose award winning handcrafted beers are renowned in the Pacific Northwest. Canoe's food philosophy is simple: Chef Aaron Lawrence creates fresh, Island cuisine showcasing local farmers and the ever-changing menu highlights seasonal organics, the finest cuts of meat and wild seafood.

Spinnakers Gastro Brewpub & Guesthouses, 308 Catherine Street. As Victoria’s only “gastro” brewpub, Spinnakers defines the art of combining regional cuisine with hand-crafted beer. Spinnakers is Canada’s oldest licensed brewpub and a pioneer of the North American micro-brewing renaissance. A local legend, Spinnakers is also admired for its on-site malt vinegar brewery, unique in North America.

The Guild, 1250 Wharf Street. The Guild is a quintessential English pub with a flair for the unusual. As its name implies, the pub embraces the idea of people working together and sharing common values. Entrees such as Welsh rarebit, Stilton & grapes, Cumberland sausage and pork shank are traditional and rustic fare, but exhibit true craftsmanship, care and value. The Guild partners with a dazzling range of local craft beer breweries.

Speaking of craft beer, Vancouver Island is besotted by the stuff and West Coast Brewery Tours delivers a unique and flavourful behind the scenes look into Victoria's finest craft breweries. This is the perfect tour to meet fellow beer lovers and discover the art of craft beer from some champion brewers in the business...one delicious beer at a time.  Kiwi, Elton Walker, runs West Coast Brewery Tours. www.westcoastbrewerytours.com

Where to stay? Just a  few minutes walk from the waterfront, Parkside Hotel & Spa is a fabulous urban retreat, situated in the leafy residential neighbourhood of the Humboldt Valley. The 126-room hotel sports the latest in first-class amenities in a restful, sophisticated atmosphere. Consisting of one and two bedroom suites each with full or partial kitchens, and bedecked with decadent fabrics and designer furnishings, it feels more like luxury apartment-style living than a standard hotel.

The hotel is packed with extra treats like a koi pond, roof-top terrace, free WiFi, movie theatre, pool, spa and fitness centre. The onsite coffee shop, Caffe Fantastico, is an absolute smash-hit with coffee snobs. The local, family-run roaster zealously pursues the finest quality coffee, and they’re so popular, the roastery supplies beans to many of Victoria’s most discerning restaurants. www.parksidevictoria.com

Air New Zealand is increasing capacity on its Vancouver route, moving from seven to eight weekly services during the first half of January, making it easier than ever for Kiwis to escape to the snow, with increased services during the shoulder periods too. With well-timed overnight flight departures, I managed to sleep my way across most of the Pacific. For best fares and seats to suit, head to www.airnewzealand.co.nz

Don’t tempt fate by heading overseas without decent travel insurance. Cover-More not only offers medical travel insurance, but if trouble strikes -  their global assistance team will coordinate your care, find a local doctor that speaks English and even arrange for medical evacuation back to New Zealand. Not all emergencies are medical. In cases of natural disaster or civil unrest, your travel plans can soon turn to custard. Cover-More’s 24 hour global assistance centre is just a phone call away. Check out the full range of quality insurance plans. Call 0800 500 225 or visit www.covermore.co.nz

Mike Yardley is our Travel Correspondent on Jack Tame Saturday Mornings.