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Mike Yardley: Essentials in Milan

Author
Mike Yardley ,
Publish Date
Fri, 8 Jan 2016, 1:20PM

Mike Yardley: Essentials in Milan

Author
Mike Yardley ,
Publish Date
Fri, 8 Jan 2016, 1:20PM

On first impressions, modern-day Milan doesn’t exactly bedazzle fresh arrivals. Extensively bombed during World War II, the city certainly doesn’t possess the fairy-tale visage of a Florence or Venice. But give her a night or two, and Italy’s wealthiest city has some masterly sights waiting in the wings, that have to be seen to be believed.

Top billing goes to the Duomo, which is not only the largest Gothic church on the planet, but the third largest cathedral, of any style, on Earth. Stumble into the eponymously named Piazza del Duomo and prepare to be arrested by the staggering size, height and girth of this 14th century masterpiece. Lustily adorned with 135 spires and 3200 statues, it’s constructed in pink-tinged marble.

The sheer immensity of this church posed many logistical problems – chiefly, how does one transport so many slabs of gut-busting marble into the city centre? Da Vinci’s genius thinking came to the rescue, whose canal lock mechanism enabled the mountains of marble to be shipped through the narrow city streets, by raising water levels, one section at a time. As an aside, Milan would be a watery world to rival Venice, if the roading network didn’t conceal the labyrinth of streams and canals that lace the city.

Back at ground level, to the left of the Duomo, and framed by a soaring archway, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II was constructed to celebrate Italy’s unification in 1861. Taking 14 years to build, tragically, the innovative designer, Giuseppe Mengoni, plummeted to his death just days before his incredible tour de force was finished. (Locals believe that you can avoid Mengoni’s bad luck by rubbing your heel into the testicles of the mosaic bull on the floor.  ) This elegant shopping arcade, shaped like a crucifix, boasts designer boutiques, sumptuous cafes and Milan’s most famous restaurant, Savini.

The far archway leads you out of the galleria and into another evocative Milanese square, Piazza della Scala. A glorious statue of Leonardo Da Vinci overlooks another iconic city treasure, Teatro La Scala. First built in 1778, this legendary opera house was all but destroyed during WWII, but was hastily rebuilt and reopened in 1946, such was its universal affection. La Scala has a very austere facade, but its majestic six-tiered and chandeliered interior, bursting with gilded arches and scarlet-silk furnishings are extraordinary. Attend a performance or take a theatre tour, which run daily, from the main foyer. 

One of Milan’s most adored treasures is also one of the most elusive:  Da Vinci’s depiction of The Last Supper. Miraculously surviving the allied bombings, the revered wall mural graces the refectory of Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Grazie.

Fashionistas? The nerve-centre of Italy’s rag-trade, the Golden Quad. This quadrant of pedestrianised streets is studded with Italian fashion’s flagship stores, including Armani, Gucci, Prada, Versace and Dolce & Gabana. The Milanese are formidably fashion conscious, even if it’s just to pop out for a loaf of bread. It’s not hard to soon feel like a scruff when gazing about at the local attire.

If you really want to splash out in the style stakes, Principe di Savoia  should be your Milanese address. Entering this graceful space, savour the over-the-top marble foyer and reams of polished oak, a time-honoured antidote to the overdose of designer hotels in Milan. No stranger to a host of glamorous stars, this Dorchester Collection hotel is seen as something of an institution in Milan. First opening its doors in 1927, the hotel has welcomed Charlie Chaplin, Eva Peron, Maria Callas, and more recently George Clooney, Elizabeth Taylor, and Elton John. Frank Sinatra, Robert De Niro and Madonna have all stayed in the presidential suite, which has its own pool.

Milan's grand dame has all the trappings of a landmark luxury hotel. Most of the guest rooms are stately and spacious, complete with lavish marble bathrooms and Acqua di Parma toiletries. Guest rooms are bedecked in traditional dark-wood furniture and deluxe fabrics, integrated with all the mod-cons. Staff are efficient, unfailingly helpful, chirpy and chatty.

The Principe bar is an elegant aperitivo spot, and the Acanto restaurant has garden seating and is open from breakfast to dinner. The lavish buffet breakfast, complete with bubbles and designer cakes, would have to be one of the most indelible breakfast spreads I’ve experienced. No wonder the hotel’s dining options are such a hit with locals and non-residents, who are always welcome. Lighter food, sneaky treats and High Tea are served with style  in Il Salotto reception area.

By Mike Yardley, Newstalk ZB’s Travel Correspondent on Jack Tame Saturdays. 11.20am

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