If you’re well-travelled across the Pacific, the prospect of seeing another cultural show may struggle to elicit much excitement. But Te Vara Nui’s cultural extravaganza is beyond comparison, it’s in a league of its own, propelling its stature as a signature experience in Rarotonga. On my latest foray to the Cook Islands, I finally made a date with the nation’s multiple award-winning island night show at Te Vara Nui Village.

Since its launch in 2010, this premier cultural attraction has constantly been showered with accolades. The legendary Polynesian belle, Mama Vara, who performed all over the Pacific and was pursued by Marlon Brando when he was filming Mutiny on the Bounty in Tahiti, is the proud matriarch of Te Vara Nui. Together with her daughter and son in law, they purchased an old taro swamp and set about developing a cultural village that would lustily showcase Rarotongan music, dance and culture.

Tapping into an underground spring, this beautiful floating garden and village has been designed with jaw-dropping finesse. The setting itself is a show-stopper. I arrived at 7pm and was promptly seated along with the hundreds of fellow show-going diners, at shared tables. It’s a very convivial affair and I enjoyed chatting to Kiwis, Aussies, Americans and Germans over pre-show cocktails. A charming little 11 year old from Kawerau, Taiere, was goggled-eyed in awe of the extravaganza, from start to finish.

The thoughtfully-designed seating layout wraps around the elaborate overwater stage, creating a potently atmospheric arena. The lavish buffet dinner includes a generous spread of signature dishes, including that sterling icon of Rarotongan cuisine, ika mata, consisting of chunks of fresh tuna blended with coconut juice and lime. Anticipation reaches its crescendo as the heavy drums beat with greater and greater intensity.

The production’s exceptional sound and lighting elements, complete with flaming torches, electrifies the entire spectacle in the showbiz stakes.  Suddenly I felt like Las Vegas had descended on Muri Beach.  Group upon group of beautiful local dancers throng the floating and fixed stages of the waterfall garden, to celebrate the legend of Tangaiti and the settlement of Rarotonga. Their artistry, choreography, energy and stamina left me agog. I felt exhausted for them, in the balmy Rarotongan air.

I have seen my fair share of cultural shows, but nothing has come even close to the exhilarating spectacle that Te Vara Nui turns on. I recognised one of the performers, Chris, who had earlier in the day joined me on a Buggy Tour. Straight after that, he was slogging his guts out, playing a top-level club game of rugby league. And now he was dancing up a storm on stage! Where do these people get their energy from? Te Vara Nui is undeniably the mother of all island nights. Situated in the heart of Muri Beach, free shuttle beaches will whisk you to and from this purpose built village and your accommodation. Bookings are essential.  www.tevaranui.co.ck

If you prefer a quiet and more boutique accommodation experience, Moana Sands Beachfront Villas ticks all the boxes. The villas are operated by Moana Sands Beachfront Hotel, which is 5 minutes away. Located in Vaimaanga, directly opposite Wigmore’s Superstore, the villas are extra-generously spacious, with enough room to house a vaka sailing crew.  Superbly equipped with full kitchen facilities, you’ll enjoy all the home comforts with flat-screen TV, DVD player, couches, dining area and balcony. 

The absolute beachfront garden and barbeque area allows you to slink onto the sand, within seconds from your villa. Free private parking is available on site and a variety of water sports equipment, including snorkelling gear and kayaks are available for complimentary use.  You’ll love this Rarotongan roost.  http://moanasands.co.ck/

A short walk down the beach from Moana Sands Beachfront Villas, I strolled through the sand to Vaima on the Beach. Open 7 nights a week, this eye-catching beachfront eatery has indoor and outdoor dining options, but it’s hard to beat the sensation of wiggling your toes in the sand as the setting sun gilds the lagoon. Tropical flavours permeate the cuisine, plump for Vaima’s Seafood Curry. Just divine. www.vaimarestauarnt.com

Located on the sunset coast at Arorangi, the circular-shaped Kikau Hut offers a faultless casual dining experience, with a superb fusion of European and Pacific flavours. The affable, ebullient Gordon Brown is at the helm of Kikau Hut, who greets and chats with every diner. I’d heard great things about the Seafood Platter which is what I ordered up – and what a feast!

I devoured the shrimps in seafood dressing on a bed of paw-paw, the deep-fried calamari, the heavenly bowl of ika mata, the scallops and rukau gratin. (Cooked taro leaves and commonly known as island spinach.) Along with salad and fries, the star specimen of the platter was the pan-fried longbilled swordfish.  All of the restaurant’s delightful sauces are home-made by the chef, like the tartare dipping sauce. If you can leave some room for the dessert, try the tasting platter. This medley includes banoffee pie, Kikau wontons and baked cheesecake. Yes, it’s sinfully delicious.

If you’re up for some market frolics, don’t miss the magic of the Muri Night Market, under the  expansive shade of those fabulous flame trees that flank the roadside, all over the island. Held between 5pm and 8pm on Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday and Saturday, many Kiwis rate the night market as their holiday highlight.

Soak up the live music while noshing from the variety of food stalls like seafood curries, garlic prawns, and tuna with papaya salad. Finish it off with a slab of coconut and chocolate pie. It would be rude not to.  If you’re still peckish, there’s always Vili’s, across the road, for Rarotonga’s most succulent burgers.

Visiting Rarotonga on a Saturday? Rise with the roosters and heads to Avarua for the Punanga Nui Market.  Fresh produce goes on sale from 6am and you’ll want to get there early to bag the best and freshest bargains. A salivating array of cooked food is also available, including chicken kebabs, pork buns, barbecued lamb and the wildly popular chicken on rice with mushroom sauce. I also highly recommend the pineapple custard pie. Alongside filling your stomach, the market also boasts a wealth of local gifts and souvenirs. 

Mamas sell hats and bags woven out of coconut fibre, pearl farmers sell black pearls cultivated from Manihiki, there’s 8 stringed ukuleles and log drums available and hand-painted pareu (sarongs) amongst the wide range of local merchandise.  The colours of Rarotonga are in full blaze.  Your South Pacific sun tan may fade, but your golden holiday memories will linger on. For planning tips and more insights on making the most of a Rarotonga escape, head to www.feelraro.co.nz

Air New Zealand operates up to 11 flights weekly, direct from Auckland to beautiful Rarotonga. Enjoy the wide-bodied comfort of the 777 and 787 Dreamliner that services the route.  Bag a flight time and fare that suits at www.airnewzealand.co.nz

Mike Yardley is our Travel Correspondent on Jack Tame Saturday Mornings.