As Kiwis gear up for the summer driving season, the sustained downward pressure on fuel prices is make the lure of a roadie all the more attractive around the world. One of my favourite self-drive destinations is Scotland: It’s considerably smaller than the South Island, the roads are top knotch, the scenery is superb and, unlike England, traffic volume is low. It’s a hassle-free place to free-roam.
One of my recommended self-drive routes is through Deeside and Speyside. To the uninitiated, these two words probably don’t mean much. But they are short-hand for two of the most indelible sightseeing districts in Scotland. They are THE show-piece attractions in North East Scotland. For a country that exports a billion bottles of whisky annually, exploring some of the signature distilleries is a journey into Scotland’s soul, and a whisky tour will no doubt leave you with a warm glow. But sure to share the driving!
The Speyside Malt Whisky Trail is a designated sightseeing route, showcasing some of Scotland’s most famous brands and labels. A wide array of distilleries line the banks of the River Spey; many operations have been doing business here for hundreds of years. The charming village of Dufftown lies at the heart of the Speyside distilling region, home to seven working distilleries, and widely considered the capital of Scotland’s malt whisky. The tourist office is an excellent resource outlet, and distributes the free Malt Whisky Trail booklet, which will navigate you around the region’s draws. The nearby Whisky Museum is a fabulous shrine to Scotland’s big export earner, in addition to holding “nosing and tasting” sessions.
At the northern entrance to Dufftown is the most spectacular whisky powerhouse of all, the Glenfiddich Distillery, family owned and operated since 1887. The regular free guided tours give you an outstanding overview of the entire production process.
Glenfiddich is one of the few distilleries that still has a bottling plant on site, and the brilliantly crafted walking tours of the factory, climax with a free dram. The distillery’s gardens are beautifully manicured, and the whole Glenfiddich experience is a relaxing and informative encounter with a great Scottish icon. The nearby Speyside Cooperage is well worth a look too. It turns out over 100,000 oak barrels a year for the maturing of malt whisky. It is an exquisitely skilful craft, and the centre enables you to watch the coopers’ at work.
Across the River Spey lies another very popular whisky house, the Macallan Distillery. Picturesque fields of Golden Promise barley flutter romantically in the wind as you drive through the entrance. Sherry and bourbon finishes are the trademark taste of a Macallan dram, and many whisky aficionados are adamant that Macallan is the king of Speyside malts.
In contrast to the indulgence of Speyside, Deeside will bring you back to your senses, with a fusion of natural and architectural magnificence. Stretching from Aberdeen to Braemar, the Royal Deeside tour is one of Scotland’s evocative road trips. Snaking through the valley of the River Dee, the region has enjoyed a long and close association with the British Monarchy.
Since Queen Victoria’s purchase of the Balmoral estate in 1852, Deeside has been the Royal Family’s official summer home, and of course it was where Victoria mourned the passing of Albert for many years, far away from public view. The Royal Deeside Tour follows the A93 road, totalling 111km in length. All of the major attractions are well-sign posted. This is serious castle country, with a wealth of Scottish Baronial architecture on show. Crathes Castle is an atmospheric, 16th-century property, acclaimed for its Jacobean painted ceilings and gorgeously carved canopied beds. The formal gardens are impeccably maintained, and feature 300 year-old yew hedges and gloriously colourful herbaceous borders.
Ballater is a major tourist hot-spot, loved and adored for its postcard-perfect main street that is lined with old-world shops and cottages. Many of the shop fronts boast royal warrants, and supply the royal family with all profusion of household provisions, from fishing tackle to gourmet confectionary. The butcher, hardware store, fishing shop and pharmacy are such specimens.
When Queen Victoria would travel from London to Balmoral, she would alight from her royal carriage at Ballater’s Old Royal Station. The station has been lovingly restored and features a museum and restaurant. Queen Victoria’s descent from the royal train at Ballater has been cleverly re-created with life-size figures enacting the regular sight at the train station a century ago. Ballater is packed with accommodation providers, and is an excellent overnight stopping point.
Ten minutes from Ballater is the Queen’s Highland home, Balmoral Castle. Built in 1855 for the royal family, the Queen is generally in residence every summer from late July to October. If you are visiting the area during these months, you won’t be able to see much of the castle, which is blanketed from the road by a thick veil of trees. However, you can get a glimpse of the castle one mile north of the entrance.
If you are visiting between April and July, the castle is open for visitor tours – you can even take a pony ride on the velvety lawns. Along with access to the spacious grounds and gardens, the walk-through includes the castle ballroom which displays a collection of royal art and memorabilia. If you have seen the smash-hit movie, The Queen”, which starred Helen Mirren, the film’s depiction of Balmoral and the surrounding rugged countryside splendour will all seem very very real.
Heading inland from the A89 Deeside route, treat yourself to a panoramic drive through the southern gateway to the Highlands, through the Cairngorms. There are all manner of driving routes, but a roller-coaster expedition can be enjoyed on the A939, which traverses the pristine and primitive high country wilderness, on the Lecht Pass. This alpine road is not dissimilar to the South Island’s Lindis Pass, and is a truly memorable encounter with Scotland’s wild, woolly and rugged interior.
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