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Mike Yardley: Wild about Oregon

Author
Newstalk ZB Staff,
Publish Date
Wed, 11 Apr 2018, 10:00PM

Mike Yardley: Wild about Oregon

Author
Newstalk ZB Staff,
Publish Date
Wed, 11 Apr 2018, 10:00PM

It’s a most shapely mountain, with a conical peak, rearing its head high above the Cascade Range, east of Portland, lording over Columbia River Gorge.  At 3424 metres in stature, this lofty dormant volcano struts the horizon with imposing grandeur. After taking in the elemental delights of the gorge, it’s an easy jaunt to Mount Hood, home to Timberline Ski Area, which boasts the longest ski season in North America – virtually year-round.

The glistening snow-capped peak is a self-explanatory reminder of that prized truth.  At an elevation of 6000 feet above sea level, Timberline’s magnetic appeal extends far beyond ski-bunnies and snow-boarders, to hikers, bikers and casual sightseeing. Less than two hour’s drive from downtown Portland, Mount Hood underscores the city’s salubrious outdoorsy credentials. Pulling in two million visitors a year, Timberline Lodge is an emblematic Oregon attraction.

80 years old and designated a National Historic Landmark, this monumental log and stone lodge is an architectural masterpiece. Immortalised by Stephen King’s The Shining, I found myself murmuring, “All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy,” as I approached the lodge, which was cast as the Overlook Hotel. In honour of its cinematic fame, the lobby is adorned with an axe with “Here’s Johnny!” sculpted on it.

Stanley Kubrick was allowed to use the lodge for exterior shots in the movie, but the real Room Number 217 was not used in the film, as Timberline’s owners feared no one would ever stay in it again! Even if you’re not overnighting at Timberline, revel in some superlative woodsy dining at the Cascade Dining Room, where gourmet local cuisine is showcased, or tuck in to the less formal all-you-can-eat buffet breakfast. A pioneering spirit of craftsmanship paired with a deep-rooted connection to the region inspires the culinary programme.

Led by celebrated Chef Jason Stoller Smith, they are very proud of their sustainable farm-to-table relationship with the land around Mt. Hood. Perched on the second floor circular balcony, surrounding a massive stone chimney, the Ram’s Head Bar & Restaurant is a picture-perfect location for family-friendly casual food and drinks with mouth-watering views of Mt. Hood and Mt. Jefferson.

The locally-sourced and alpine-inspired food menu includes a curated selection of the best Northwest cheeses, charcuterie from Portland-based Olympia Provisions and Swiss Alps-inspired après ski fondue. Government Camp, further down the mountain, is home to the highly-decorated Mt. Hood Brewing Co. Pair some house-brewed options with hearty fare like Tillamook cheddar burgers and beer-battered fish and chips.

Known as a brewery with an ‘altitude,’ Mt. Hood Brewing Company prides itself on being more than just a brewery, but also a family-friendly restaurant and bar, complete with kids and dogs menus. Their beer is produced in small, hand-crafted batches with the highest quality ingredients available, including glacial-fed water.

After getting your alpine kicks on Mount Hood, head back down to the Columbia River, as its assertive westward path slides around Portland before continuing its quest for the ocean. From Portland, heading northwest, the port town of St. Helens is a charmer, first charted by Lewis & Clark in 1805, on their intrepid journey to the Pacific. An extraordinary procession of ocean-going freighters were heading out of St. Helens as I rolled into town.

The Olde Town District is a delight, with a colourful collection of quirky boutiques, big on vintage and retro merchandise. Refuel at Klondike Restaurant & Bar, lauded for their decadent treats like deep dish chocolate chip cookies. If the town looks familiar, like the Timberline, you can thank Hollywood for that. St. Helens served as a backdrop for the blockbuster Twilight trilogy.

I cruised along Highway 30 following the river’s northwest path all the way to enticing Astoria, where the Columbia spills into the Pacific. It’s just an hour from St. Helens and you can relive the frontier spirit of the area, by visiting the Lewis & Clark National Historical Park, where a replica timber-beam structure at Fort Clatsop, recreates their winter encampment from 1805.

The original fort steadily deteriorated in the extreme winter climate, but the fort’s establishment spurred a boom fur trade to take hold, followed by an even larger fishing industry. Officially founded in 1811, Astoria is considered the first permanent American settlement west of the Rocky Mountains. A thick fog had mantled the town as I ventured down its main street on foot. Its atmospheric assortment of historic buildings is movie-set perfect – hence its nickname, Hollywood by the Sea. Astoria was the starring town in one of my favourite childhood movies, The Goonies! 

Pottering around town, the morning fog added to the atmosphere, as I ogled the grand old wooden Victorian homes and their elegant grounds. The grand-daddy specimen is the Flavel House Museum, a Queen Anne-style masterpiece, built in 1885 for Captain George Flavel, a Columbia River bar pilot who was one of the area's first millionaires. The family home, which consumes an entire town block, is now preserved as a fascinating period-style museum.

But Goonies fanatics will instantly recognise the landmark as the museum where Mikey's father worked as a curator. The actual Goonies House, is located at 368 38th St. But it’s not open to the public, despite the hordes of movie fanatics who stake it out. Nautical buffs should make time for the Columbia River Maritime Museum, a treasure trove of salty history and exhibits, including full-size Coast Guard rescue vessels.

After re-caffeinating at the fabulous Street Fourteen Coffee Shop, the effusive barista suggested I head up the hill to “watch the fog chase the river to the sea.” Duly intrigued, I headed up Coxcomb Hill, crowned by the mural-adorned Astoria Column. It’s the most celestial vantage point to survey the meeting of the river and the ocean. Sure enough, as the fog blanket dissipated from Astoria, a smoke-like plume of fog wafted all along the river’s path, seemingly evaporating as the river mouth met the mighty blue depths of the Pacific Ocean.

Straddling the river, the astonishing 6.55km-long span of the Astoria-Megler Bridge, the longest continuous truss bridge in North America. Swathed in dense fog, connecting Oregon with Washington, I couldn’t help wonder what Lewis & Clark would make of this remarkable engineering statement, in the town that they founded all those years ago, opening up the wondrous West for the fledgling but always enterprising United States? www.travelportland.com

Wherever you choose to stay while exploring Oregon’s wonders, lock in your accommodation through www.Hotels.com, which is fast, efficient and packed with great deals. Hotels.com Rewards gives you one free night after 10 nights booked– which you can bank for future holidays. Rewards members and mobile app users also enjoy exclusive access to Secret Prices. Booking a perfect hotel on the go? I found the Hotels.com mobile app to be a simple, fast and secure.

Hawaiian Airlines offers one-stop flights between New Zealand and Portland, Oregon via Honolulu. For just NZ$145 per person, per sector, Extra Comfort Seating is a great-value way to accentuate the experience, particularly on the haul between Auckland and Honolulu. Hawaiian Airlines has expanded its New Zealand schedule, now flying five times a week from Auckland. Bag a great fare and seat to suit. www.hawaiianairlines.co.nz

Planning a great American adventure? Check-in on the official website for a world of trip inspiration. www.visitusa.com.au

Mike Yardley is our Travel Correspondent on Jack Tame Saturday Mornings.

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