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Mike Yardley: The beauty of Bayon Temple, Angkor Thom

Author
Mike Yardley,
Publish Date
Fri, 29 Jul 2016, 1:25PM
The magnificent Bayon Temple (Photo / Mike Yardley)
The magnificent Bayon Temple (Photo / Mike Yardley)

Mike Yardley: The beauty of Bayon Temple, Angkor Thom

Author
Mike Yardley,
Publish Date
Fri, 29 Jul 2016, 1:25PM

Siem Reap is the launch-pad to over 50 Angkor temple ruin sites, reclaimed from the jungle and swooned on by tourists. Further afield, many others are still submerged and out of bounds because of the insidious presence of land mines. With such a  bewildering array of temple-touring options on offer, knowing what to see and where to go, to get a rich flavour of Angkor’s diverse delights needs expert guidance. Enter Wendy Wu Tours and my exuberant guide Mao, who deftly led me around a curated selection of enticing temple ruins.  After taking in the obligatory sunrise spectacle at Angkor Wat, we hot-footed it north to Angkor Thom before the heaving hordes descended on the scene. Translating as “Great City”, this walled and moated royal capital was the last constructed under the Khmer empire, by King Jayavarman VII, in the 12th century.

Mao led me to the staggering South Gate, where on either side of the road, a stone causeway is festooned in 108 sculptured demons and gods, locked in a tug of war with a nine-headed snake, in a scene played out from Hindu mythology. Like Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom is surrounded by moats, which were principally designed as an engineering measure – not as fortification. The body of water helped maintain the structural balance of the sandstone foundations of the temple complex, combating the threat of stones cracking and slumping.

Once inside the South Gate, shafts of golden sunlight streamed through the leafy forest, as cicadas droned lustily, cheeky monkeys scampered and elephants stood sentinel, awaiting the another day’s toil lugging lazy tourists about. Mao strongly dissuaded me about recommending these treks - sadly these graceful, lumbering animals are atrociously treated. Beyond the forest glade, I stood before the prize draw, Bayon Temple, stunned and bedazzled. It is like nothing else in the land. You may well recognise it from Lara Croft: Tomb Raider.

A magical, eerie, and mysterious place, where 54 sculpted towers pierce the skyline, extravagantly carved with curiously smiling faces, as enigmatic as Mona Lisa. In fact, many locals refer to Bayon as the Mona Lisa of Southeast Asia. No fewer than 216 carved faces, in deep-relief, infuse the temple with a soothing, feel-good calm. It’s the same face, masterfully replicated, with a broad forehead, slightly curved lips, downcast eyes and wide nostrils.

On the third level of the temple, your zoom lens will have a ball capturing these endearing carvings. The face is believed to be a depiction of the king, himself. Donald Trump would approve. The large central tower, or Prang, is pockmarked with 16 small coves, where kings and high priests would meditate. After being abandoned in the 16th century, in 1933, French archaeologist George Groslier excavated the main prang only to unearth a colossal statue of King Jayavarman hidden underneath.

As we continued exploring the temple, we interacted with beaming elderly matrons selling Buddhist incense sticks, giving you the opportunity to make offerings, in a very non-pushy, Buddhist way. I also lapped up the bas-relief galleries speckling the temple, depicting an empire full of stories and legends, illustrating warfare and spirituality. Check out the grisly images of crocodiles eating the carcasses of fallen soldiers. What a way to go. You’ll glimpse spear-toting Khmer soldiers riding elephants, a crouching lady getting burned on a fire, a man handing a turtle to a chef and soldiers sacrificing a buffalo to ensure good luck in battle.  As much as Angkor Wat is monumentally magnificent, it’s the humanity and personality of Bayon that make it such a heart-stealer – and my favourite Angkor temple.

Beyond the beauty of Bayon, head to the beautifully lush royal square in the Angkor Thom complex for two endearing spectacles. The Elephant Terrace was the long performance terrace of the king, so named because of its exquisite reliefs of elephants, whose trunks double as decorative columns. The 350 metre long concourse serves up a theatrical carved medley of circus acrobats, wrestlers, and images of hunting elephants in the wild.

Right next door is the Terrace of the Leper King, which stays true to the spirit of grandeur during Jayavarman VII's reign. Deep relief carvings cover the terrace, which is topped with a statue of the naked Leper King on the platform.  Who was the Leper King ? Mystery surrounds his origin, with a slew of competing theories, including the claim that statue got its name merely because of the lichen which grows on it. Whatever the truth, it’s another essential photo-stop in Angkor Thom.

Magnificently located in the heart of town, Park Hyatt Siem Reap is a landmark property, taking over one of the city’s grande dames, the Hotel de la Paix, four years ago. Originally built in the 1950s, it’s a nicely-proportioned property with 108 rooms and 13 suites, sumptuously refreshed by the acclaimed Bangkok-based interior designer Bill Bensley. His signature minimalist-chic style sings out, while also paying homage to the building’s gorgeous Art Deco elements and Khmer-inspired wooden designs. Upon arrival, you’re checked in, in the Living Room, a lounge bar outfitted in stark shades of black wood and pink-purple velvet.

By night, it transforms into a plush, candlelit space, which has fast emerged as one of Siem Reap’s top cocktail haunts for ex-pats. The hotel’s lovely formal restaurant is the Dining Room, which serves French-influenced Khmer dishes for dinner and a decadent buffet offering for breakfast, in addition to a la carte options. Another enticing option is the Glasshouse Deli & Patisserie, where you can grab breakfast to-go, and all-day casual bites from sandwiches and salads to pizzas and pastries. Beyond the luxurious design and comforts, you’ll be royally treated by the hotel staff who personify Siem Reap’s reputation for disarming warmth, friendliness and hospitality. http://siemreap.park.hyatt.com

 Getting there? Jetstar offers one-stop flights to Singapore from New Zealand with onward services to a wide range of Asian destinations including Siem Reap and Phnom Penh in Cambodia. I flew with Jetstar from Singapore to Siem Reap, return. I enjoyed the ultra-modern aircraft and charming flight crew. Both flights departed bang on time and the fares are unbeatable.  Book at www.Jetstar.com

Wendy Wu Tours offers a wealth of options in Cambodia from extensive two and three week tours, to short breaks and tailor-made options.  I experienced their Siem Reap in Focus 3 Night Short Break, which threaded together all of the essential sights with flexibility for personal exploration. Ph. 0800 936 3998 or head to www.wendywutours.co.nz

Mike Yardley is Newstalk ZB’s Travel Correspondent on Saturday Mornings with Jack Tame.

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