It’s fair to say that Downtown Los Angeles has struggled for street-cred over the years with many considering Downtown a byword for crime-infested dump. But that’s fast becoming a faded memory, as the district transforms into a safe and buzzing urban hot-spot, brimming with enticing hospitality venues, head-turning art and architecture, and revitalised entertainment temples. It’s also very walkable, underpinned with excellent public transport links. But the unfolding Downtown renaissance is not without its challenges. Skid Row is still real, stretching eastwards, with its marauding ranks of pan-handlers and rough sleepers.

Stepping out of a shop, I noticed a dishevelled chap performing an autopsy on a pigeon with a nail file, under the awning. I trust it wasn’t lunch. Strolling down Spring Street, the fusion fragrance of cannibas and stale urine regularly reality-checked my nostrils that Downtown still has ample grit and edge. You’re not in Disneyland anymore, Toto. But for all its social problems, the concerted beat of regeneration marches on, with undeniably impressive results.

 I started my walkabout in Bunker Hill, gazing in awe at the Walt Disney Concert Hall’s curved ribbons of stainless-steel, set against a vivid blue sky, shimmering in the beaming sunshine. Frank Gehry’s masterpiece, built in 2003, anchors the great sweep of statement architecture lining Grand Avenue. Neighbouring the golden-hued Dorothy Chandler Pavilion, Gehry wanted his concert hall to be the living room of LA’s thriving heart. Grand Avenue is assertively becoming the Museum Mile of the west coast, with the streetscape includes the striking red sandstone Museum of Contemporary Art and the latest artistic princess to grace the avenue, The Broad. 

Gifted to the city by philanthropists Eli and Edyth Broad, they wanted a place to house their 2000-strong art collection, while also accentuating the rebirth of Downtown. The pure white honeycomb-like structure, known as “the veil”, delivers architectural wow-factor and light-diffusing functionality. Spanning six decades of contemporary art, the stand-outs include a colossal Roy Lichtenstein print, famous works by Andy Warhol including Campbell’s Soup Can, Robert Therrien’s super-sized Under the Table, and some playfully colourful sculptures by Jeff Koons. Tulips and Balloon Dog are Instagram hits. Koons also turns heads with his kooky pop art porcelain sculpture of Michael Jackson and Bubbles.  Even for the art illiterate, The Broad’s exhibits are brilliantly engaging.

Billed as “The Shortest Railway in the World”, Angel’s Landing is a vintage funicular (now dormant) that previously hauled passengers up and down Bunker Hill. I descended the stairway next to the landmark funicular, en-route to Grand Central Market, a frenetic food emporium and one of Downtown’s venerable survivors. Celebrating its centenary next year, this thriving food market serves up delicious bites under glowing neon signs. Catering to a broad church, hipsters, businessman and elderly ladies were sharing tables on my visit, polishing off $3 tacos from Chiles Secos. Try a burger from Belcampo, Mexican ceviche from La Tostaderia, or award-winning egg-laden sandwiches from the unfortunately named but fiendishly popular Eggslut.

Fancy a view to die for? Head up to the top of the US Bank tower, the tallest building west of the Mississippi. ( Yes, you’ll recognise it from Independence Day.) 1000 feet above the city, OUE Skyspace is California’s loftiest open-air observation deck. www.skyspace-la.com

 

Back on terra firma, I was particularly excited to explore the revival of Broadway, the one-time epicentre of entertainment. Back in the 1930s, Broadway in Los Angeles, not to be confused with its New York counterpart, had the highest concentration of movie theatres in the world. After World War II, the historic theatre district suffered as the cinemas of Hollywood became more fashionable. Broadway’s movie palaces were built like glorious cathedrals of cinema, opulently decorated to dizzying heights.

Some have been lost to the ravages of time, but many have been resuscitated, radiating with new-found glamour. Standout specimens include the Orpheum, the Theatre at Ace Hotel and the Million Dollar Theatre, which was built by Sid Grauman before he opened his Egyptian and Chinese theatres in Hollywood. Literally costing a million dollars, this picture palace was built in 1918, with an extravagant proscenium arch, 110ft-wide balcony, soaring carved organ grilles and fairy-tale imagery.

Strolling Broadway, you’ll notice the beautiful facades of many other grande dames still awaiting their makeover. But bit by bit, revival is happening, in between the tacky discount shops and drug stores. Broadway also crosses paths with the Jewellery District, groaning with over 5000 jewellery businesses, many pitched at the Latino market. If theatrical gold jewellery and supersized crucifix necklaces is your bag, you’re in bling heaven! But like the theatres, many heritage buildings along the strip are being conserved and repurposed as part of the council-run Bringing Back Broadway initiative. To learn more about Broadway’s renaissance, join the weekly walking tour on Saturday. www.laconservancy.org

The renaissance of Downtown has also prompted a flurry of bar and restaurant openings. My cab driver from the airport bemoaned that since he moved into the Downtown district, he now has to queue to get into the local venues. A star specimen is the recent reopening of the 80 year old Clifton’s Cafeteria. Its new incarnation, in the hands of Andrew Meieran, pays homage to its glittering history throughout its four floors. When it first opened , Clifton’s would feed locals for whatever they could afford to pay, within in its trippy forest-themed décor. Since re-opening, the wonderland has got even wilder, with stuffed lions, bison and beers, a secret grotto, theatrical lighting and 40 foot tall fake redwoods. Clifton’s staffing policy is admirable: 10 per cent are sober homeless people seeking a fresh start in life. www.discoverlosangeles.com

Where to Stay? Standard Hotel Downtown is a playful pleasure-pad on Flower Street. Guest rooms are incredibly large and funky: all have sexy see-through showers, windows that actually open, and platform beds, which surprised me for these comfort. The hotel’s crowning glory is the indoor-outdoor rooftop lounge and beer garden, serving traditional German food and beer, a buzzing social scene and superb skyline vistas. Added features that impress include the Ping-Pong  club, 24/7 dining and rooftop pool. Fabulously friendly and helpful staff round-off all the ingredients for a winning LA roost. www.standardhotels.com

Mike Yardley is Newstalk ZB’s Travel Correspondent on Saturday Mornings with Jack Tame. 11.20am