They were your typical group of teenagers, out cruising. Frisky, playful, persistent and shameless attention-seekers. A large pod of juvenile bottle-nose dolphins turned on quite the show, as we purred through the Marlborough Sounds on a Beachcomber cruise boat. The frolicking dolphins basked in the boat’s wake, before unleashing their acrobatic impulses, leaping out of the water and flying through the air like trained circus-performers. 

After a short 20 minute drive from Blenheim, Picton had dawned bright and brilliant. The glossy deep blue water surrounding Picton Marina, gleamed photo-shoot perfect. Swanky waterfront cafes were doing a brisk trade in their horse-shoe curve edging the sparkling harbour, while hordes of tourists eagerly took their pick from the host of tempting activities touting for business at the marina, spanning kayaking excursions to dive charters out to the sunken Mikhail Lermontov. In a town that I have previously accused of resting on its laurels, Picton seems to have really hits its straps as a premium destination. The place was buzzing.

I was joining a day trip into Queen Charlotte Sound with one of the region’s oldest tourist operators, Beachcomber Cruises, who offer a swag of tours including their iconic rural post delivery service, The Magic Mail Run. Keen to combine cruising with a spot of walking, my magical day out would whisk me to Ship Cove, before re-boarding the vessel for the home-run from Furneaux Lodge. Departing from Picton, my ebullient skipper, Steve, peppered the cruise commentary with a feast of fascinating insights.

Brimming with predator-free islands and marine reserves, ogling precious wildlife is an undisputed magnet, luring the world to their crystal-clear waters. Steve remarked that alongside the Hector’s, Dusky and Bottlenose Dolphins, whales are a constant sight in the Sounds. As are seals, stingrays and orcas. Steve recently saw a juvenile pygmy Blue Whale cruising in Queen Charlotte. We rendezvoused with some salmon farms, heavily fortified in perimeter fencing to stop the fur seals doing a drive-by feed.

A group of excited British visitors became particularly animated when Steve approached a rocky nook aflutter with King Shags – unique to the Marlborough Sounds. Steve mentioned their population is just 600. During Cook’s second visit to New Zealand in 1773, his crew caught one of these beautiful birds and took it home to England. As you do. The sheer size of the Sounds is astonishing, comprising 20% of New Zealand’s coastline, brimming with countless coves and secluded sandy bays.

Thick native bush surrounds these ancient sunken valleys, where the calm, translucent water spans azure blue, vivid turquoise and shimmering emerald hues.  As we approached history-dripping Ship Cove, Steve pointed out the neighbouring inlet, named Cannibal Cove by Cook’s crew, after watching local Maori cooking up some human remains during one of their visits. Throughout the 1770s, sheltered Ship Cove provided safe anchorage, food, water and timber for Captain Cook and his crew on five separate occasions, marking some of the earliest sustained contact between Maori and Europeans.

Disembarking from our boat, I dabbled in the creek where Cook made home brew for his crew before surveying the magnificent Captain Cook monument commemorating his repeat visits to the area. Remarkably, one of the original cannons from Endeavour, adorns the monument. The cannon was salvaged from North Queensland, after the Endeavour ran aground on a reef and the crew had to throw numerous equipment overboard, to free the ship. A gorgeous carved pou whenua (pole) was installed at Ship Cove 12 years ago, illustrating the legend of Kupe and the giant octopus he chased in these waters.

After soaking up the history and the endearing beauty of Ship Cove, largely unchanged from Cook’s days, and with my walking boots firmly laced up, I struck out for a taster of the Queen Charlotte Track. Combining a supreme walking and biking experience, with a seamless network of cruise and pack transfers, the resorts and lodges sprinkled along the route showcase the region’s superlative food and wine. It’s also open to mountain biking from March 1 to November 30 each year, taking about 13 hours to complete.

If you’re walking it, the full traverse from Ship Cove to Anakiwa is a three or four day affair, but itching for a sample of this celebrated trek, I embarked on the first day’s section to Furneaux Lodge. Fashioned from pioneering era bridle paths, the track was officially opened by DOC in 1991, in conjunction with private landowners, who continue to help its maintenance.  The 15km section starts with a steep, thigh-burning haul, climbing away from the beach, through regenerating native forest.

But after that initial gut-buster, the rest of the four hour long trail was a breeze, with gentle undulations up and down panoramic ridgelines. Gregariously chirping fantails, fluting tui calls and the limpid notes dropped by bellbirds were a constant avian soundtrack, as I threaded my way through forests of manuka, kanuka, tawa,tree ferns and beech. Curious weka shuffled by, wood pigeons whooshed, but I didn’t see any wild pigs – first released in these parts by Cook.

The lookout point at Tawa Saddle serves up seraphic views across Queen Charlotte Sound, while more pixel-burning vantage points loom large as your descend into Resolution Bay. In the higher reaches of the track, the elevated views serve up mouth-watering glimpses of some of New Zealand’s most remote holiday homes, glorious little escape pads of supreme seclusion. From Resolution bay, the final stretch followed a well-graded old bridle path over a ridge and into Endeavour Inlet, threading along the shoreline.

An unexpected surprise was the short detour to ogle one of New Zealand’s largest and oldest trees. A 1000 year old Rimu, in Howden Forest. A viewing boardwalk was recently built around the tree to safeguard its ancient roots. What a stunning specimen it is. Feeling weary and somewhat jelly-legged, I toddled across the finish line with a flourish, sweetly surrendering to the laid-back hospitality embrace of Furneaux Lodge. 

Built by the Howden family 110 years ago, the original homestead was thronging with thirsty patrons, chilling out and swapping tales, before boarding the boat at 5pm for the return run to Picton, as another pod of frisky dolphins shepherded us home. What a golden day in a majestic, multi-sensory pocket of wild New Zealand. 

Where to stay? Slap bang in the heart of Blenheim, just around the corner from that glorious urban oasis of Seymour Square, Blenheim Palms Motel delivers a delightfully relaxed and stylish roost. All studios and units are fully serviced, elegantly appointed and individually styled, with free WiFi and the full sweep of Sky Channels. Whether you’re travelling solo, as a family, or have romance on the menu, there’s a room to suit you. The Spa Suite is a hands-down winner with the loved-up. Ann and Ian are charming hosts, who will go out of their way to ensure your Marlborough getaway is a memorable one. www.blenheimpalmsmotel.co.nz

Planning a trip to the Top of the South? Check out the region’s official website for the latest visitor tips and insights. 

Mike Yardley is our Travel Correspondent on Jack Tame Saturday Mornings.