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Mike Yardley: Hawaiian heaven on the Road to Hana

Author
Mike Yardley,
Publish Date
Tue, 27 Mar 2018, 8:45PM
At Keanae, you can find jagged outcrops of laval rock. (Photo / Mike Yardley)
At Keanae, you can find jagged outcrops of laval rock. (Photo / Mike Yardley)

Mike Yardley: Hawaiian heaven on the Road to Hana

Author
Mike Yardley,
Publish Date
Tue, 27 Mar 2018, 8:45PM

Take a bunch of magnificent tumbling waterfalls, wrap them in lush, succulent rainforest and top them all off with smashing ocean scenery. What have you got? The prime ingredients that set the stage for the magnetic appeal of Maui’s Road to Hana. On a recent mini-break on the Hawaiian island, striking out on this celebrated coastal highway took top-billing on my to-do list. A quick glance at a map would suggest it’s a short and sweet drive, but appearances can be deceiving.

I was pleased I had set aside the entire day, because you’ll absolutely need that amount time to truly savour its rolling brilliance. Truth be told, you’ll want a lot longer to linger in its myriad pockets of untouched paradise. Maui’s east coast can act like a rain magnet, so chances are the roads will be slippery. And even though the official route spans just over 40 miles, the pencil-thin highway is carved into the volcanic cliffs of the hillside.

It’s a very twisty, very winding driving affair, with over 50 single-lane bridge crossings – yet another reason to take it slowly! I set off early from Kaanapali, heading east to the gateway town of Paia, just east of Kahului airport. With its raffish good looks and bohemian shopping, Maui’s “Hippie Haven” is an ideal pit-stop to top up your fuel and grab some snacks for the road. The Hana Picnic Lunch Co. opens from 7am, for tasty breakfasts and food to-go. Their fresh fruit smoothies are unbeatable.

Just two miles into the trip, the first of a multitude of waterfall stops beckons, at Twin Falls. I pulled into the turnout and took the gentle hike to reach a fabulous cascade, where I waded into the swimming pool at its base. Next up, Waikamoi, a fabulous 70 foot-long curtain of cascading water, particularly impressive after rainfall. The steps up to the lookout were slippery – be sure to wear sturdy shoes. 

At Keanae, I jaunted out to the peninsula, wreathed in taro fields. Along the shoreline, muscular breakers battered the jagged outcrops of lava rock. A beloved marker is at the “Halfway to Hana” sign, flanking the roadside and adjacent to a welcome food stall. I bought a loaf of melt-in-your-mouth banana bread from the family-owned store. It was fresh, moist and straight out of heaven’s oven. I also stocked up on their home-made beef jerky and moreish coconut candy.

All along the Road to Hana, enterprising locals operate roadside stalls, selling a spree of fresh and flavourful produce. Underpinning the innocence of the area, many food stalls still operate by way of honesty boxes. Shortly past the Halfway to Hana, one of the most panoramic views shuffles into frame in the Wailua Valley. This cross-hatch of black sand beaches, the roiling ocean and the undulating sprawl of verdant rainforest is just too good, not to snap.

Puaa Kaa State Park is another essential stop, where are cluster of thunderous waterfalls will fill your Instagram feed, graced with swimming holes at their base.  Falls fanatics should also pullover at the Upper Waikani Falls, a trio of towering cascades, set amid rocks, lush vegetation and crowned with a swimming hole. Disney couldn’t improve on the dream-like aesthetics. Waianapanapa is another thrilling spectacle, leading you down to a classic black sand beach, freshwater caves and booming blow holes. Take the time to revel in a hike along the ancient coastal lava trail.

Shortly past Waianapanapa, the laid-back embrace of Hana Town encircled me, with its old coral rock churches, boutique art galleries and abundance of eateries. Before the drive home to Kaanapali, I enjoyed a gorgeous lunch at Hana Fresh Farm Stand, from a bistro style menu showcasing locally grown organic produce and freshly caught fish. Their poke bowls of ahi sell like hot cakes. It’s a wonderful enterprise, with proceeds directly supporting the well-being of the Hana community.  https://www.gohawaii.com/nz

As it nears the celebratory milestone of 90 years of continuous service, no airline knows Hawaii quite like Hawaiian Airlines. The Aloha spirit is readily apparent from the moment you step on-board, to you wing your way across the Pacific, nestled in the authentic warmth and charm of Hawaiian hospitality. Beyond Hawaii, I ventured further to the American mainland, and Hawaiian Airlines is the only domestic carrier that offers all guests in all cabins complimentary meals.

All adult guests can also enjoy a complimentary Koloa Rum Mai Tai – a signature tipple from Kaua'i. Yes, please! Island-style snacks are also to the fore, like Maui Style Potato Chips, while you can also graze on Primo Popcorn, Kona Chips with furikake seasoning and Hawaiian Host chocolate covered macadamia nuts from the Pau Hana Snack Cart. Coinciding with Hawaiian Airlines’ 5th anniversary servicing New Zealand, the carrier has just expanded its Trans-Pacific service, now operating five non-stop flights a week, between Auckland and Honolulu, based on a strong demand. 

Departing Auckland just before midnight, I slept most of the way to Honolulu, before touching down mid-morning to swaying palms and the striking silhouette of Diamond Head. Travellers have the option of taking a dual-destination vacation with a free stopover in Hawai‘i before connecting to North America or on the return to New Zealand. After enjoying a mini-break in Maui, I flew on to California, via the direct Maui service to Oakland, and returned home to New Zealand flying from Seattle to Honolulu and onto Auckland. 

In addition to the carrier’s comprehensive network inter-lacing the Hawaiian Islands, Hawaiian Airlines services 12 cities on the US Mainland including Long Beach (seasonal), Los Angeles, Las Vegas, Sacramento, San Diego, San Francisco, Oakland, Phoenix, Portland, Seattle, San Jose and New York City. On the New Zealand service, Hawaiian operates the wide-body Airbus A330 which offers three cabins, including Business Class with fully lie-flat seating, Extra Comfort premium economy and the Main Cabin.

Business is aligned in a 2-2-2 configuration, with luxury amenities, world-class cuisine prepared by Hawai‘i’s leading chefs and 100 hours of movies and TV on a 13-inch widescreen tablet. Hawaiian’s Main Cabin offering is roomy, with seats at 18 inches, kitted out with LCD touch-screens, offering a wealth of entertainment and a personal USB port. I was particularly keen to experience the increasingly popular Extra Comfort seating, with 68 such seats on the reconfigured Auckland service.

Featuring five more inches of precious legroom, you’ll also enjoy priority boarding, a personal power outlet and amenity kit. For just NZ$145 per person, per sector, it’s a great-value way to accentuate the experience, particularly as you trek across the Pacific. Flights in Hawaiian’s expanded New Zealand schedule are now available for booking. Bag a great fare and seat to suit. http://www.hawaiianairlines.co.nz 

Mike Yardley is our Travel Correspondent on Jack Tame Saturday Mornings.

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