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Mike Yardley: Day-tripping Bavaria from Munich

Author
Mike Yardley ,
Publish Date
Wed, 30 Mar 2016, 9:52AM

Mike Yardley: Day-tripping Bavaria from Munich

Author
Mike Yardley ,
Publish Date
Wed, 30 Mar 2016, 9:52AM

From the reality-defying decadence of fairy-tale castles to the horror and solemnity of one of Europe’s most notorious concentration camps, there are two stand-out daytrips that should be staple entries on your Munich itinerary. Just an hour out of Munich by train, Neuschwanstein Castle (which means New Swan Stone Castle)  is one of Europe’s most beautiful and famous castles.

Commissioned by King Ludwig II, this fairy tale castle overlooks the picturesque Hohenschwangau valley and was the inspiration for Walt Disney’s Sleeping Beauty castle. Construction  began in 1869, but given the exact tastes of King Ludwig II, progress was painfully slow. For example, it took 14 carpenters four and a half years just to complete the woodwork in Ludwig's bedroom. The King was an immense devotee of Richard Wagner, even going as far as naming the castle after a character in one of Wagner's operas—the Swan Knight.  Tapestries depicting scenes from Wagner's opera festoon many interiors of this whimsical pleasure palace. 

Construction was halted on the castle and Ludwig II was removed from power by his own cabinet, who clearly thought he was as mad as a snake. The King himself was rarely concerned with matters of state and was sometimes thought to suffer from hallucinations. However, what frightened the cabinet were the rumours of their possible removal. Under Bavarian law, a King could be removed from power if he were found unfit to rule, so his cabinet deposed him.  However, Ludwig's mysterious death—conveniently adjudged a suicide at the time—suggests that the cabinet was not content to merely remove him from power. This jigsaw piece of mystery endures, adding to the atmosphere of intrigue at Neuschwanstein.

Only fourteen rooms were finished before Ludwig's death and my absolute favourite is the throne room, the supreme picture of opulence, with intricate frescos of angels decorating the walls. There is no throne, only a raised dais, due to Ludwig II’s removal before a throne could be built. This amazing landmark was bathed in snow on my recent visit, however, whatever time of year you plan a visit, Neuschwantsein is unfailingly spectacular.

For a complete change of scenery, take the short 20 minute train trip from Munich to Dachau, and the poignant memorial site of the Dachau Concentration Camp.  The vast gallery of photographic displays, the spartan cell blocks, bunk beds, crematorium and gas chamber all add to the powerful sense of emotion, when visiting this camp. More than 41,000 of the 200,000-plus prisoners lost their lives at Dachau.

A fabulously produced documentary film in English is shown daily at 11:30 and 3:30. The former camp has become more than just a grisly memorial: it's now a place where people of all nations meet to reflect upon the egregious sins of the past and its enduring impact on the world. What I found particularly striking on my last trip to Dachau, was the overwhelming number of young visitors exploring the site of so much horror.

If you want to sample European hotel grandeur at its ravishing best, the Bayerischer Hof is Munich’s legendary property. Originally conceived by Ludwig I, and open since 1841, the King would even come here to take a bath, as the royal palace didn’t have bathtubs.  Ninety years ago, Bayerischer Hof was Europe’s largest hotel, but even today, a rich sense of history and contemporary flair mingle with an easy elegance.

Don’t miss the iconic Blue Spa, offering barbecues in summer and a unique ice bar in winter with views of Munich. The Polynesian-style Trader Vic’s restaurant remains wildly popular while the newest restaurants, Atelier and Garden, were designed by interior whiz Axel Vervoordt, who also devised the Cinema Lounge. Handily located in the heart of the shopping district, the hotel is just a 5-minute walk from the Hofbräuhaus Beer Hall. With 7 bars and 5 character-packed restaurants, whether it’s to wine, dine or stay, Hotel Bayerischer Hof is a signature Bavarian experience. Check out the full range of packages and specials online at www.bayerischerhof.de

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