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Mike Yardley: Columbia River Gorge, Oregon

Author
Mike Yardley,
Publish Date
Sat, 7 Apr 2018, 12:42PM
Multnomah Falls bridge, Oregan. (Photo: Mike Yardley)

Mike Yardley: Columbia River Gorge, Oregon

Author
Mike Yardley,
Publish Date
Sat, 7 Apr 2018, 12:42PM

As I crossed the border from California into Oregon on Interstate 5, I knew I was entering somewhere special. Flanked by the sprawling Cascade mountain range, which marches all the way up to Canada, two blockbuster natural treasures loomed large: Mt. Hood and the mighty Columbia River. The waterway is the stuff of legend, thanks to the intrepid trail-blazing endeavours of Lewis & Clark. Steeped in nation-building heritage, the Lewis and Clark Expedition opened up the Western Frontier for Americans in the early 1800s.

Beginning near St. Louis, Meriwether Lewis and William Clark led the Corps of Discovery Expedition, traversing the Rockies and making their way westward by following the path of the Columbia River. President Thomas Jefferson commissioned the expedition shortly after the Louisiana Purchase in 1803 to explore the newly acquired territory, and to establish an American presence out west, before other European powers tried to claim it. Native Americans were enormously helpful in successfully navigating the expedition party, all along the way to modern-day Astoria, on the Pacific Coast. 

Approaching Portland, I followed the signage to Highway 84 and pointed the car east to Troutdale, the gateway to the Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area. Few places embody the raw grandeur of the Pacific Northwest quite like this region. The gorge is actually a ginormous cleft in the Cascades, 80 miles long and 4000 feet deep, through which the massive Columbia River flows, after beginning its journey in the Rockies. 

I called into Troutdale, a characterful riverside town with a convivial main street, lined with inviting boutiques, reflecting their wild and woodsy surrounds. A Union Pacific train blew its whistle as it rattled through town, and I followed in its trail, due east, on the winding Historic Columbia River Highway. My first stop was at the octagonal Vista House on Crown Point, to soak up the striking panorama. From this stone rotunda, built as a monument over a century ago to Oregon’s early European pioneers, my eyes drooled across this all-season wonderland, dominated by towering rocky cliffs dotted with thick furs, big leaf maples and gushing falls.

Across the gaping girth of the river, lava-stacked tablelands line the Washington side. The gorge is graced by no fewer than 90 waterfalls, one of the highest such concentrations in the world. Last September, a monstrous wildfire deliberately lit by a teenager, scorched vast swathes of the gorge’s forests. The scars to the landscape from the Eagle Creek fire remain conspicuous, and has led to the on-going closure to some of the beloved trails and scenic byways.

Despite those restrictions, it is still possible to savour the majesty of Multnomah Falls, the banner attraction, although the hike to the top of the falls still remains closed, while unstable trees are removed.  Spanning two tiers on basalt cliffs, it claims to be the second tallest year-round waterfall in the United States, nearly 200 metres in height. (Yosemite Falls, with a whopping drop of 729 metres, is the cascading king.) The lush land surrounding the falls was developed by Simon Benson in the early-20th century, with a pathway, stone lodge and fairy-tale footbridge all added.

The gorgeous bridge was crafted by Italian stonemasons. After taking in the delights of Multnomah, I headed for the bridesmaid in the fall stakes, Horsetail Falls. This gushing curtain, like something straight out of a Disney movie, is another water-meets-gravity marvel. With a 54 metre sheer drop, and located just off the historic highway it’s a less-trafficked but equally romantic setting. Latourell Falls is equally impressive. Back on the road, I called into Bonneville, home to the first dam constructed on the river, built in 1938, and the Bonneville Fish Hatchery.

The underwater viewing room is engrossing – you might spot Herman, a colossal 10-foot long sturgeon. Further upstream, the evocatively named Bridge of the Gods dominated proceedings. Built over 90 years ago, this steel truss cantilever bridge connects the two states across the wide span of the Columbia River. In 1927, electrified onlookers watched in awe as Charles Lindbergh flew the Spirit of St. Louis low over the new bridge, and then for extra-sensation, he made a 180 degree turn, and flew right under the bridge. 

If you have the time, take a sightseeing cruise from Bonneville, to spy ancient Native American fishing platforms along the riverbanks, while the long-range crowd-free views of Beacon Rock and Multnomah Falls will leave you swooning. Further down the highway, the ravishing riverside town of Hood River seduced me with its rich assortment of handsome Victroian-era wooden homes, perched on bluffs overlooking the river, and the spirited main street that brims with eateries and adventure sports shops.

As you enter the town, take a brief diversion to the Columbia Gorge Hotel, a gloriously historic property bracketed in lush gardens, gracing the high banks of the curving river. Hood River is also the launch-pad for the Fruit Loop, a round-trip drive through fruit-laden hills, where an abundance of darling fruit stands boast yummy pies and fresh produce, including just-plucked berries in summer.

I wrapped up my gorge jaunt at The Dalles, where the Columbia Gorge Discovery Centre showcases the dramatic backstory of the region. The gorge was first formed by cataclysmic floods, known as the Missoula Floods, which were glacial flood events at the end of the last ice age. The centre artfully illustrates the evolution of the natural landscape and its subsequent settlement by Native Americans and European pioneers. 

 A new generation of entrepreneurs is restoring historic properties and showcasing the region’s bounty at its restaurants and bars, including Oregon’s micro-brewing prowess. Be sure to visit The Dalles Dam. Board a brightly coloured open-air train to view portions of the longest dam in the United States, and then watch live images from CCTV of migrating fish using the fish ladder, to override it, including Chinook salmon. www.travelportland.com

Wherever you choose to stay, lock in your accommodation through www.Hotels.com, which is fast, efficient and packed with great deals. Hotels.com Rewards gives you one free night after 10 nights booked– which you can bank for future holidays. Rewards members and mobile app users also enjoy exclusive access to Secret Prices. Booking a perfect hotel on the go? I found the Hotels.com mobile app to be a simple, fast and secure.

Hawaiian Airlines offers one-stop flights between New Zealand and Portland, Oregon via Honolulu. For just NZ$145 per person, per sector, Extra Comfort Seating is a great-value way to accentuate the experience, particularly on the haul between Auckland and Honolulu. Hawaiian Airlines has expanded its New Zealand schedule, now flying five times a week from Auckland. Bag a great fare and seat to suit. www.hawaiianairlines.co.nz

 

Planning a great American adventure? Check-in on the official website for a world of trip inspiration. www.visitusa.com.au

Mike Yardley is our Travel Correspondent on Jack Tame Saturday Mornings.

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