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Mike Yardley: A swing through San Francisco

Author
Mike Yardley ,
Publish Date
Sun, 6 May 2018, 6:34AM
Fog over San Francisco (Image / Mike Yardley)
Fog over San Francisco (Image / Mike Yardley)

Mike Yardley: A swing through San Francisco

Author
Mike Yardley ,
Publish Date
Sun, 6 May 2018, 6:34AM

Amid San Francisco’s glittering parade of splendours, the Ferry Building always manages to hook me in, as a flavourful launch-pad for a city exploratory.  For the past 15 years, the 120 year old landmark has not just been a transport hub but bustling marketplace. With its siren-like allure, the emporium of artisanal purveyors spans pastries, coffee, cheeses, juices and chocolate. Adding to the gorge-fest, there are sit-down restaurants like the splendid Hog Island Oyster Company.

Snacking my way through the marketplace, my personal favourites include the delicious gooey  cheeses at Cowgirl Creamery, Miette Patisserie and Recchiuti Confections for their lavender and ginger chocolate. Snap up an assortment of goodies for a decadent picnic and make you way to one of the city’s beloved picnic spots. Alamo Park overlooks the Painted Ladies, while Golden Gate Park’s plethora of eye-grabbers includes the antique carousel and the roaming bison. The herd were originally established to preserve a sense of the old Wild West.

I also took a wander through the urban wilderness of the Presidio, laced with fabulously undulating trails around the old military sites, en-route to the Walt Disney Family Museum.  With walking trails and scenic lookouts galore, The Presidio is where San Francisco began. Founded at the Golden Gate in 1776, it served as a military fort under the flags of Spain, Mexico and the United States before achieving national park status in 1994.

Established by Walt Disney's eldest daughter, the museum takes you on a riveting journey through his exemplary life, from humble beginnings to starry-eyed heights. I thought it might be a bit schmaltzy, but the museum is intimate, revealing and enthralling. As you walk through his astonishing life story, not only are you left in awe of his stature as a true entertainment genius, but I drooled over a plethora of behind-the-scenes footage and priceless exhibits, like the original models used to create Disney’s most famous productions, including the game-changing Snow White.

Just launched, an addition exhibition devoted to the “Masters of Animation” features an array of never-before-seen personal artwork from classic animated films such as Pinocchio, Bambi, Peter Pan and Sleeping Beauty. All of Walt’s glinting Oscars are displayed at the museum, too. You can try your hand at animation in the Open Studio and savour some cinematic classics in the Fantasia Theatre, but the climactic attraction is the colossal miniature replica model of Disneyland, Anaheim in the 1960s.

If you’re up for more musing, San Francisco’s museum of the moment is the Museum of Modern Art. (SFMOMA) It now spans ten floors, with over thirty thousand pieces on display to bend your mind. A new addition is the Fisher Collection, which includes a trove of pop art from Andy Warhol, Alexander Calder and Roy Lichtenstein. There’s lots of wacky sculpture from Jeff Koons and the Pritzker Center for Photography boats the largest such space for photography of any USA art museum.

Arachnophobes? Test your will mettle amongst the gigantic spider sculptures of Louise Bourgeois. Graced with a façade inspired by the mist-draped waters of San Francisco Bay, whether you want a quick one hour dip inside, or happy to devour a whole day, it’s a riveting museum.  Whenever I’m San Francisco, I always love staking out movie locations, given the city has amassed a solid reputation as being one of Hollywood biggest back-lots.

Being a city big on seafood, whether you’re after a cheap clam chowder or something fancier, Swans Oyster Depot in Polk Street is a century old institution, elevated to TripAdvisor royalty. It’s the holy church of seafood, with just 18 seats set around its counter, meaning there’s always a queue outside. But it’s sure worth the wait. I also enjoyed some sinfully delicious Californian-Indian cuisine at the Taj Campton Place Hotel. With a prime perch on the edge of Union Square, on Stockton St, the century-old building one of San Francisco’s most prominent landmarks. 

I enjoyed a sumptuous dinner at the two-Michelin-starred Taj Campton Place Restaurant – a sure-fire hit with gourmands. Chef Srijith’s perfectly executed and inventive cuisine, combined with thoughtfully paired wines, creates the ultimate fine-dining experience. Plump for the 9 course degustation menu. Stand-outs include the black cod in green strawberry chutney, curry leaf and ghee; Liberty duck breast dressed in fava greens, morels, rhubarb and cured yolks; and the Maine lobster which is accompanied with cauliflower, green mango and coastal curry sauce.

A stupendous experience. The Taj brand of hospitality has cultivated a solid reputation for its warmth, attentiveness, personal care and exclusivity. It’s fancy, without being fusty. Special, but not stilted. It’s a winning roost in San Francisco. https://www.tajhotels.com/

You may have heard that the World Rugby Sevens will be descending on the city for the first time in late July, at A T&T Park, home of the Giants, who are celebrating their 60th anniversary this year. If you happen to be in town mid-year, you’ll notice a glittering new landmark, to dwarf the TransAmerica Pyramid, reframing the skyline. Located on the corner on First and Mission Streets, Salesforce Tower soars over 1000 feet vertically, and the tallest public art installation in the USA will sheathe the top of the tower.

Local artist, Jim Campbell, is putting the finishing touches on his epic electronic sculpture, ablaze in 11,000 lights and giant video screens which will project daily scenes from across the city. Fancy venturing beyond the Golden Gate? Hiring a bike from Fisherman’s Wharf, I jaunted over the bridge to Sausalito, which is such a stunningly swanky waterfront village, home hundreds of high-end houseboats parked up in floating home marinas. Feeling dog-tired after the biking across the Golden Gate, I completed the circuit by catching a ferry back, to the City by the Bay. www.sftravel.com

Many of the top-billing attractions, like the iconic Cable Cars, SFMOMA and a harbour cruise are incorporated into the San Francisco CITYPASS booklet. You’ll save time and money and see the city at your own pace. www.citypass.com

Hawaiian Airlines offers one-stop flights between New Zealand and San Francisco or Oakland via Honolulu. For just NZ$145 per person, per sector, Extra Comfort Seating is a great-value way to accentuate the experience, particularly on the haul between Auckland and Honolulu. Bag a great fare and seat to suit. www.hawaiianairlines.co.nz

Planning a great American adventure? Check-in on the official website for a world of trip inspiration. www.visitusa.com.au

Mike Yardley is our Travel Correspondent on Jack Tame Saturday Mornings.

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