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Mike Yardley: Gold Coast Hinterland

Author
Mike Yardley,
Publish Date
Sat, 13 May 2017, 12:02PM

Mike Yardley: Gold Coast Hinterland

Author
Mike Yardley,
Publish Date
Sat, 13 May 2017, 12:02PM

As much as the golden sands and glinting skyscrapers of Surfers Paradise command a siren-like pull on Kiwi winter escapees, the Gold Coast hinterland abounds with soft adventure pursuits, if you need a break from the theme parks and the beach. As the locals say, it's the Green behind the Gold, a lush high country wonderland of rainforests, waterfalls and characterful mountain villages.

I joined an excursion operated by Scenic Hinterland Day Tours, who've been forced to radically revamp their schedule of tours, as the region wrestles with the aftermath of Cyclone Debbie. 1000 millimetres of rain drenched the Gold Coast hinterland, bringing down thousands of trees and washing away some sections of road, creating ongoing access issues. The full-day tour I experienced mixed the majesty of Springbrook with Tamborine Mountain, to create an action-packed day of scenic thrills.

Just a 40 minute drive from the bikinis and the breakers, I was wrapped in the green-drenched embrace of Tamborine Mountain, which is generally 3 degrees cooler than at the beach. Not only is Tamborine Queensland's oldest national park, but the third oldest in the world. It is also the most northern section of the Southern Hemisphere’s biggest volcanic caldera, a vast green eroded cauldron sprawling for 40km as far as Byron Bay.

The great caldera derives from the ancient Tweed Shield Volcano that blew itself apart 23 million years ago, covering the land with lava. Rising nearly 600 metres high, Tamborine Mountain stretches across an 8km plateau. The rich red volcanic soils and basalt rock are ever present across the terrain. The plethora of walking trails delve into Australia's ancient Gondwana rainforests, a canopied world of filtered light and dappled greens brimming with piccabeen palms, strangler figs, epiphytes and curling vines.

Our first stop was Curtis Falls Walk, which like many trails across Tamborine Mountain, is short and stress-free. An unexpected frisson heralded our arrival, as an enormous flooded gum tree cracked and crashed down to the forest floor. The noise was horrific. Drama over, a quick ten minute stroll through lush rainforest brought us to Curtis Falls, which flows into Cedar Creek. This is a spring fed waterfall, with a Disney-like drop into a rockpool, before tumbling over basalt boulders.

We also took in the Tamborine Rainforest Skywalk, which is another effortless way to soak up the forest finery. Elevated steel walkways zip you through the upper canopy of the forest, combined with easy trails through the forest floor. The highlight is the 40-metre long cantilever that juts out and wobbles, 30 metres above Cedar Creek and the forest. All over Tamborine Mountain nature is locked in a tug of war between the giant flooded gum trees of the Eucalypt forest and the sub-tropical rainforest.

Strangler Figs are the rainforest’s front-line soldiers, leading the charge against the invasive gums, by growing on top of them and strangling them. Strangler Figs also cast out their wide canopy to provide a shady refuge for more rainforest plants. In this remarkable battle for domination, the Flooded Gum trees fight back by shedding their bark every year to remove young figs from their trunk.

We had a morning tea break in the Tamborine tourist hub of Gallery Walk. Home to 6000 residents, the mountain community’s long driveways and grand, stately gates are a reoccurring theme. There's some serious wealth up here. Gallery Walk lures the tourists in their droves, with its abundance of craft shops, art galleries, superb boutique wineries and eateries. I popped into Mt. Tamborine Winery where a cracking fire was roaring. It was only 20°C  - and the locals were feeling chilly. They produce a wide variety of boutique wines. Across the road, the Cuckoo Clocks Nest is a cracker, brimming with authentic German cuckoo clocks and grandfather clocks. Each clock is set to a different time, so that shoppers don’t go totally insane, when the cuckoos and chimes unleash their exuberance. Somewhat reminiscent of Sedona, the Gallery Walk is also a hot-bed of new age types, touting all manner of therapies and paraphernalia, including crystals, salt lamps, dream catchers, psychic healing and metaphysical healing. Hello woo-woo. 

Springbrook Mountain is the tallest peak in the hinterland, topping out at 1000 metres. After refuelling for lunch at Springbrook Café, we headed for Purling Brook Falls, a staggering spectacle of rainforest, cascading water and canyon-like cliffs, flaunting their volcanic hues. Once again, many of the walking trails are incredibly short affairs and the 118 metre drop of Purlingbrook’s waterworks is a breathtaking sight. Canyon Lookout is another recommended stop, serving up supreme views right across the Gold Coast with Rainbow Falls and Twin Falls in the foreground.

As the name would suggest, Best of All Lookout is the grand-daddy of all views, serving up a sweeping canvas of scenery from Springbrook's high plateau, reaching across the border into New South Wales and to Mt. Warning, which was the core of the ancient volcano. To reach the lookout entails a 10 minute stroll through ancient rainforest, which also boasts the geographical oddity of mighty Antarctic beech trees. They are unique to the area, a hangover from Gondwanaland, and these gnarly giant specimens are 2000 years old – and still going strong.

There's some fascinating wildlife to keep an eye out for in the Gold Coast hinterland. I thought I was already familiar with most feathered and furry specimens of Australiana, but I added two new entries to my list. First, the red-necked pademelon. We saw scores of them in Springbrook, although they're super shy. If a wallaby is like a small kangaroo, a pademelon is like a super small wallaby. No bigger than a rabbit. I also glimpsed one of Australia’s most extraordinary birds scurrying into the foliage, Prince Albert’s lyrebird.

Timid and about the size of a weka, it’s the world’s largest songbird and reputed to have the most powerful, musical voice of any species. David Attenborough adores it.  With the power to sing non-stop for four hours, it’s the Pavarotti of the rainforest, and adding to its repertoire is the lyrebird’s uncanny ability to mimic all manner of sounds, from other forest birds to a chainsaw busy at work. Previously shot to be eaten in pies, this crafty crooner is far too talented to be buried in pastry. Enjoy a magical day of discovery with Scenic Hinterland Day Tours. www.hinterlandtours.com.au

Where to Stay? With a vintage Holden parked up in the driveway and longboard strapped to its roof, this opening nod to the surf-mecca sets the stage for a fun and funky hotel stay. Beating to a distinctive retro vibe, check in to the gorgeous QT Gold Coast, situated in the heart of Surfers Paradise and just a block back from the beach. All rooms boast a spacious balcony offering sublime ocean views. From the ceramic cockatoo side lamps to the DIY lemonade kits, the chic and playful atmosphere is catwalk cool.

This designer hotel is loaded with goodies including a sublime outdoor pool deck, tennis courts and amazing dining. Bazaar Restaurant serves international cuisine in a unique marketplace-style setting with open concept kitchens. The buffet-style dinner is just astonishing – size up the seafood! Retire to Stingray Lounge for inventive cocktails in a chilled atmosphere, while Fixx features Italian cuisine and after-dinner drinks. www.qthotelsandresorts.com

Jetstar offers direct flights to the GC from Auckland, Wellington, Christchurch, Queenstown and one-stop connections from a number of other New Zealand cities. For guaranteed best fare deals, enjoy a Gold Coast escape and bag a sizzling deal at www.jetstar.com

Transferring from Gold Coast Airport? With over 20 years in the business, Con-X-ion provides a great-value, reliable and friendly service, with guaranteed door-to-door pick up and drop off services. In addition to airport transfers, Con-X-ion also offers theme park transfers and city tours. Book ahead. www.con-x-ion.com

Mike Yardley is our Travel Correspondent on Jack Tame Saturday Mornings.

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